Custom Transition - Tile to carpet - jam gap

[icemanwiggins]

I need some help fixing a transition gap between the door way jams and the transition itself. See pictures.

How did I get to this point:
So here goes my whole dilema. I paid for a gentleman to pour self leveling cement and lay down some tile on a heated floor. I did pay the standard rate and he seemed like a competent contractor. He was not competent. He over poured the self-leveling cement. The floor with tile off of bare concrete was over 1-1/8". The edge was also left rough. This really left me with very little options. So, I created a custom transition (I've attached pictures so others can see how you can do this). When I installed the transition I really thought I got it right and I could seamlessly solve the problem. However, I did notice one flaw. When installed my door because the floor was so high I cut off the bottom of the jam flush so I could get it in (trust me I barely got it in). In hindsight, I should have notched the jam (will never make that mistake again) and I wouldn't be posting to this forum if I notched it. There is no need to point that out. I know in this particular instance not cutting the jam is my own fault and whats done is done.

But now what? The transition is already glued and screwed down, it's rock solid under your feet. Come hell or high water that transition would have to be destroyed to be removed. The holes are filled with epoxy .

Any ideas on how to fix the gap between the door jam and the transition? It looks really ugly now. I've wondered if carpet will cover it or if there will always be a gap, if there is a gap will people notice.

Is colored caulk my only option to solve this? Keep in mind I'm skilled wood worker, okay finish carpertener, software developer by trade. I'll entertain any ideas and I will post a picture with the final product...

Thanks,

Ike

 

[icemanwiggins]

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[havasu]

I would use a color-matched silicone type caulking to fill the gap. Once the carpet is installed, you'll never notice it.

 

[icemanwiggins]

Thanks for the reply.

Is there a particular brand you prefer?

How far do I need to fill the gap? Assuming the carpet is 1/2" and the pad is a 1/2" and the tuck under gap of the transition is 3/8"?

 

[Ernesto]

Well, I bet you have a nice level tile floor now. Yours musta been way off. Thats what SLC is for, but you can do flat verses level. Bad communication?

 

[icemanwiggins]

The concrete floor was already level. I checked it myself. There is a mat for heating it (warm wire), I put it down. I did a good job, the wire was flat on the surface and hot-glued if needed. Floor was etched too, I did that myself too. He said he didn't feel comfortable applying morter over the wire (I did have a plastic trowel for him to use). He went on and on about thats not the proper way to do it, he went to a seminar, blah blah blah. However, the manufacturer recommends a morter bed and after the fact I've spoken to two other contractors and they do a morter bed. He was a afraid of call-back.

All in all, I think he was lazy and a so so contractor. He didn't want to dispose of the extra SLC. The floor required 2 1/2 bags. He used 3.

The tile he laid was okay. I can say there are spots where he pushed too hard. So the tile isn't level despite an SLC of at least 5/8". What a waste right? The tiles were 12 x 12 and it's small area so there is no execuse. He did back butter which is a plus. Never once mentioned a transition in the doorway. For obvious reasons!

All in all I would never hire him again. He stated on the phone and in person it was 200 for the self-leveling cement and 350 for the tile install. Which I thought was a very competive but reasonable bid. I did it on hand-shake. When the job was done, he said it was 750. That is my fault and a lesson learned. Always get the bid in writing. It's an old contractors trick to switch the price at the end of the job. I should have just said no, that's not what we agreed too, go f* yourself.

Every since he left the job, my problems have "cascaded." There is just enough clearance for the door too swing open. If he was off another 1/4" I would have had to saw down the door. I would not be in this mess if I laid the tile. I have to do something once, to get good at it. Since this would have been my first and only tile job, I decided to pass and hire it out. Big mistake, nobody is going to care about doing the job right as much as I do!

Ike

 

[Nick]

The installers on this site are more critical of the finished product then the consumer . You just got a bad installer .

 

[havasu]

Color Rite has numerous colors, which should fit the bill correctly.

http://colorriteinc.com/color-palette

I also agree with you that the only person who will care is yourself.

 

[Floorist]

I would probably slide a piece of wood in there and glue it to the transition. Doesn't need a gap under it with carpet going in that room.

 

[DarisMulkin]

Maybe in your area there is a place that can make caulk to match for color.
Now if carpet is going to go against your transition do not take the thickness of the pad into the mix. Pad does not go up against the transition. Tack strip does and it is only 1/4" thick. So it will be 1/4" plus thickness of carpet. But very seldom does the 2 added together is it exactly even. Just saying.

Daris

 

[icemanwiggins]

Maybe in your area there is a place that can make caulk to match for color.
Now if carpet is going to go against your transition do not take the thickness of the pad into the mix. Pad does not go up against the transition. Tack strip does and it is only 1/4" thick. So it will be 1/4" plus thickness of carpet. But very seldom does the 2 added together is it exactly even. Just saying.

Daris

Good point! I did not know that!

 

[icemanwiggins]

Color Rite has numerous colors, which should fit the bill correctly.

http://colorriteinc.com/color-palette

I also agree with you that the only person who will care is yourself.

Thanks! I will look at colorite.

You are 100% nobody will care as much as I do. I feel that work I do is reflection of me and I want people to know that I do a good job.

 

[Ernesto]

There's also carpet shims that go under the tack strip.

 

[DarisMulkin]

Thanks! I will look at colorite.

You are 100% nobody will care as much as I do. I feel that work I do is reflection of me and I want people to know that I do a good job.

To bad everybody didn't think like that. Even the professionals.
Good catch on the shims Ernesto, I had forgot about them.

Daris

 

[icemanwiggins]

Ernesto, can you explain to me in layman terms how the shims would affect the gap or solve it or maybe neither? I understand the shims ramp up to the transition. I never knew such a thing existed and or how it would work in my situation.

Thanks,

Ike

 

[icemanwiggins]

Attached are the pictures. I pulled back the casing and glued the jam cut-off. I had saved the cut-off from the jam originally. I ended up cutting both ends and glue with CA. I tried to use caulk but I struggled to get a good color match and gave up.

So, the gap height from the floor to the jam is 7/8. Do I need to anymore or does everything it will covered up with carpet???

Thanks!

Ike

 

[DarisMulkin]

At 7/8 I think it will be fine, unless you are putting in a commercial type carpet, then it would be close.

Daris

 

[icemanwiggins]

Daris, it's a plush style carpet, probably at least 1/2" pile, the pad will be 7/16 to 1/2. So I should be good right? Do you think I will need carpet shims still?

 

[Ernesto]

Ernesto, can you explain to me in layman terms how the shims would affect the gap or solve it or maybe neither? I understand the shims ramp up to the transition. I never knew such a thing existed and or how it would work in my situation.

Thanks,

Ike

Your carpet installer should know about them. Just search the term "carpet Shims".

 

[davinasanchez]

I am looking for some good quality Axminster Carpet online.. Can anyone please suggest me some website to buy this??