Direction with fireplace & where to start

[Dibbs]

Hello,
Thank you everyone for your help, I’ve learned a ton, & think I’m dangerous now. Lol
This is my first post but I've been a long-time lurker.

So I’m installing 3”x3/4” prefinished Hickory, on a level double layer of 5/8” plywood, & Joists are 16” O.C..
I’ve already installed the flooring in the bedrooms before we moved in. Now we’re remodeling the kitchen and front room, which leads me to two questions that I’m not 100% certain on.

• Where do I start the flooring?
• Which direction should I go because of the fireplace?

I have an enormous stone fireplace that separates two rooms both of which will have this flooring. Then a stairway to the basement on one corner. I’ve attached a not at all to scale PDF of the joist, stairwell, and fireplace location. Plus a couple of photos of the fireplace for reference.

Here’s my plan but as mentioned before I’m just dangerous (thanks again everyone) not experienced… I plan to undercut the fireplace using a Crain 820 (or similar) undercut saw with a diamond blade. Although going parallel to the Joists (Flooring MFG spec says it’s acceptable) would make it much easier to cut the flooring to fit under the fireplace. I plan to go perpendicular to the joist & will get creative ripping the flooring to fit under the fireplace.

My starting point is going to be 15” (width of 5 pieces of flooring) from the end of the stair nose. I’m going to measure off 3 points on the wall across from the stairs to find a square to the wall then snap a line for the starting point. I’m going to face nail a scrap piece to begin and install flooring until I reach the stair nose. After which I will remove the face nailed scrap & install a spline to change direction.

Am I off with my plan? Any wisdom, suggestions, or prayers are welcome! Thanks again!

 

[highup]

I don't know why but I can't open the PDF. If it's something that you do out on paper you might be able to just photograph it and put the image here instead of a PDF.

 

[Jon]

Try this as it was the only way I could post it in a different format

 

[Mark Brown]

Sounds to me that you know what you are on about. Undercutting the fireplace while a giant pain in the arse is the best thing to do and man alive does it ever look sexy when it is done. Make sure you hook that saw to a vacuum or we might never see you again..... get it, its a dust joke

 

[Dibbs]

@highup Thanks for taking a look. I've attached a JPG because I had it however @Jon came through with the assist. Thank you sir! @Mark Brown Thank you for confirming. Dust jokes are even better than Fart jokes in my book!

 

[highup]

Yeah but fart jokes can kill you immediately if you flip a light switch. Dust jokes may take 30 to 50 years to kill you.
When I turned my phone on this morning it made a couple of funny noises and it indicated the PDF did load up. Last night it said it could not.
From your drawing, the flooring looks like it would look good running parallel to the fireplace as I believe is the direction you want to go. It doesn't look like the easiest way but it might look best going that direction. You would need to set up some sort of a guide to make that first row that goes under the fireplace, perfectly straight. If that ends up being too difficult there is always quarter round. It doesn't look bad if it can be stained to match the flooring.

 

[highup]

By the way if you can't tell already, the guys that habitate this place are dangerous too, so you're in good company.

 

[Dibbs]

I stated to undercut the fireplace today & this is not what I meant by dangerous. (Video attached)The longer I go the worst it gets…

I went with the Robert’s long neck jamb saw installed is the masonry blade that came with the kit.
I’m having a hard time finding a diamond blade for this. I found a marshaltown 822SB that should be here in a couple of days, but I’m not even certain that will wor

Any other suggestions on how to conquer this or a recommended diamond saw? Thank you!

 

[highup]

I can't see the video but I can hear the sound. That tick at the end didn't sound like something good.

 

[Jon]

No

I can't see the video but I can hear the sound. That tick at the end didn't sound like something good.

No video pictures either for me

 

[highup]

I'm going to guess the blade that came with it is a standard fiber reinforced blade?
If you can find one that fits it would most likely be a slotted/ segmented blade for dry cutting. Not a continuous surface blade.
You'd better be wearing a good particle mask and have a vacuum set up for dust collection.

 

[C.J.]

Slow n easy is how you have to be with those blades. If you start to lay into them you can literally watch them get smaller as your laying into them. So you have to take multiple light passes and keep working at it without destroying the blade. A segmented blade is preferable but even that will require that you take it easy, the blade just lasts longer.

You using a Ridgid shop vac? You can get a HEPA filter and HEPA vacuum bag kit from HD for those for $50. It won’t turn your vacuum into a true certified HEPA vac but it’s certainly better than blasting silica dust throughout your house.

 

[Dibbs]

I found this blade
Marshalltown 822SB Flooring & Tiling Blade Crain Diamond Undercut Saw Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H5CIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5WP1FYD81NDPEQCS7W0E

plus I’m going to pick up a an angle grinder dust attachment and diamond blades 4x$40

It is a ridged vacuum with a “cyclonic dust separator”, regular bag but hepa filter. I’ll take a look for the hepa bags. Thanks!

I’ve attached pictures for those who Couldn’t see the video. I didn’t think I was pushing that hard but will try again tomorrow.

 

[C.J.]

I have that same blade and use the regular vacuum bags as well. I never did step up to a HEPA filter for my Ridgid shop vac but I do have an actual HEPA vac for those times when I need it. You’ll be alright.