Engineered flooring on concrete

[jocasio]

Hello all:

I just finished installing engineered hard woods on my upstairs (thanks to some great advice on this forum) and am ready to tackle the downstairs level. I have concrete downstairs that has pulled up when we removed the old engineered flooring. There are several areas where this happened.

So my question is what do I use to fill it? I have added a couple of images. I looked at concrete patching material, but they all seem to have vinyl in them. I was also going to looking into a concrete leveler. I'm not even sure if I need to patch them.

Can one of you experts please give me some advise on this? I am at a loss and do not want to mess it up. I've already laid an entire room (which did not have this issue as it had carpeting) and it's going well so far.

Many thanks!

jocasio

 

[jocasio]

Here are a couple more images...

 

[Chobasco]

Yeah I would use "Ardex Feather Finish", as long as those dimples are less than 1" deep. Add water until the consistency is like thick mud, and depending on depth of the dimples it should take a few hours to fully cure. You can use it to skim coat your subfloor for glue-down if you are unsure of your glue adhering to the substrate. A small dent here and there usually isn't a big deal but it seems to be a large area, and could be an issue

 

[BruceFillie]

Ardex Feather Finish works really very nice. I have used it. It gives a really great base.

 

[Incognito]

Ardex Feather Finish

Yup, and for holes/fills that small it really doesn't matter how deep they are. You don't use this patch to lay a 1 inch thick BED across an entire large area surface but little patches or contained "puddles" can be filled with no problems.

As the others have warned-----MIX AND APPLY as per the instructions on the bag. DO NOT cheat to make your life easier by watering down the batch.

Mixed correctly it will spread out like butter baby

Peanut butter to be more precise.

All the other crap is..........garbagio.

good luck

 

[janicedemesa]

We have just installed nice flooring just similar to that floor and everything also looks good. Also, I can tell that everything now seems to be really doing fine.

 

[robertdexter]

Nice work. Which wooden adhesive is suitable for this type of work?

 

[RichardParker]

My neighbor used a cork underlayment between their glued down engineered wood floor and concrete slab; we had our floor glued directly onto the concrete. I notice no difference in sound or feel when walking on their floor and on ours. Also, my neighbor has complained about how cold and hard her floor feels and how it aggravates her knees. Neither floor sounds hollow...they're not floating floors, they're glued down. I'd like to emphasize strongly what livewireoak said about the importance of a flat substrate. Apparently, our concrete substrate was not flat, and the boards did not stick (they are 5" wide planks which makes it even more important for a level substrate as they won't "give" like a narrower plank might). After the installers returned for the third time to drill holes to inject glue because of non-sticking planks (we counted 90 drilled holes), we said enough. We hired a floor inspector and he showed us with a 6' level that some areas of our substrate had a 1-1/2" variance, which was why the planks were not sticking. We demanded a new floor and the builder complied. But it was a mess pulling up that glued floor and leveling the concrete.