Engineered wood floor

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QCI777

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Feb 9, 2013
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Who can tell me about Engineered wood flooring? Is it like installing Laminate? Also do you think it would be wise to put it in from a garage entry hall into a kitchen and through a dinning room out to front entry. Customer wants a wow look that flows beautifully. But also if home does not sell in time to buy the house they really want. They want something they will love having. She loves the wood look! so I'm asking those who know the product and can advice if they would or would not put in those areas. Would you suggest glueing tongue to seal it? Or not! We Live in Indiana ware it snows lots of moisture, high humidity in summer. We have all four seasons. And They have 2 big dogs. If you don't suggest engineered flooring what would you suggest. It's been along time since I've been public. I've done nothing but new construction and having nothing to do with the general public. But i put my apples in one basket too long, and I'm starting to do my own referrals instead of sending them to the store. It's just really scary and new for me. Thanks I appreciate any input.
 
I myself believe the tile "wood look" floor is a much longer lasting investment. Here is a pic of one I did last year, and the floor still looks great today.

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eric248 said:
Why did you want engineered? Why not solid unfinished?

The only reason I asked about Engineered is because the customer is shopping for a flooring to up date her flooring and painting walls to resell the house. For a house they really want! But they also are scarred that if their house don't sell in time to get the other house. They will have to stay in the house and won't like living in something they cover up for the sake of covering up. But they have unleveled flooring areas kitchen to dining room is about 7/16 of a inch higher. Then from the dining rm connecting to entry hall about 9'x 4'3 is tile they are not sure they want to take up. And about 4'x4 of that same hall is Berber carpet into the dining room. They want a flooring that will flow from barrage entry into kitchen through dining room out to the front entry. And maybe even down the hall up to all 3 bed room doorways.bedrooms and hall bath room. In kitchen their is a few floors under it. In the front entry hall they raised the floor to make carpet tuck even with tile. They raised the hall to bed rooms. They are thinking to only spend about $3000.00 ish I'm stumped with that kind of budget. She mentioned she liked the gunstocks looking floor she don't like the vinyl cheap look. She said! Lol shed love the hard wood floor, but she also has two good size rooms of carpet they have together. About 75syds. It would take that just to re level all the different floors heights in each room. So I thought maybe a floating floor in kitchen and garage entry. Capet in dining rm and hall to bed rooms and rising the 4x4 are between entry hall and dining rm and put a floating system their. So I'm stumped for ideas and asking you all if you have any idea what you think. They want the wow affect without the cost effect! How do i do that!
Thanks
 
havasu said:
I myself believe the tile "wood look" floor is a much longer lasting investment. Here is a pic of one I did last year, and the floor still looks great today.

That's nice! But what's the cost? I really like the fact with tile you don't have to worry about the water in a kitchen and entry and dining room. Especially with animals. Thanks for that idea. It won't hurt to ask them.
 
QCI777 said:
They want the wow affect without the cost effect! How do i do that!

I want a new vette but I only had $1500 so the salesman sold me a chevette.
 
Did you use grout on that havasu?

Yes, it has color matched 1/8" grout lines.

That's nice! But what's the cost? I really like the fact with tile you don't have to worry about the water in a kitchen and entry and dining room. Especially with animals. Thanks for that idea. It won't hurt to ask them.

The cost was about $2.00 a piece for the tile. With the thinset, grout and a thin spread of redguard around the expansion joints in the concrete, and with the new base molding, my cost was about $3300 for 1400 sq feet, doing everything myself.

I just came from Home Depot a few hours ago, and they have about 6 different variations of this tile, and run about $2.39 a piece. The new stuff even has simulated saw cuts in a lighter and a real dark color, and is really good looking. My other house is floored with Bruce "Gunstalk" wood planks, and my next job is to tear this all out and replace it with the tile. My dogs have destroyed this flooring in less than 6 years.
 
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Have you seen the rectified wood like planks you can butt together, no grout necessary?

One problem I see with this stuff it its rough texture on top. You may need to steam clean it to get the dirt out. Unless of course you buy brown tile because mopping might not do it.

Labor and materials can triple in cost over a wood substrate depending on whats needed to stiffen the floor up.
 
Ernesto is correct. Most So Cal homes are on a concrete slab, making installation a breeze. Stiffening up a wood floor would surely increase the costs substantially. Regarding the rough surface, with tile, you want traction. Step out of a shower onto a smooth tile floor will guarantee you a butt flop, so the more surface roughness, the better.
 

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