Hardwood flooring router bits

[mwilleson]

I am adding some 3/4" hardwood floor to our kitchen. I have seen special router bits used for flooring to add a groove in the end or side if you need to after cutting, etc.

I have seen rounded mortise bits or a more traditional square mortise type. Are there advantages to either in terms of tear out?

I realize existing grooves are rounded, but I am thinking a square bit might be more useful on other non-flooring projects. I do not, however, want to go square if the rounded works better with less tearout.

I am also considering ripping any splines needed on a table saw which would lend itself to the square type mortise, but again, my main question centers around tearout and the best grove.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Ken]

What in Gods name are you talking about? Please be more specific and we may be able to better help you. Why are you using a router for anything? There's really no reason a DIYer would need any sort of router bit to do flooring.

 

[havasu]

If you are only replacing a few boards, and unable to locate a replacement tongue and groove plank, it is feasible to need to router an edge. You will have to remove one of the existing boards and match as close as possible. You could also do a face nail down and putty the holes for a quicker installation.

 

[Ernesto]

Lots of guys use a biscuit joiner: http://www.lowes.com/pd_71000-70-DW682K_0__

Or if you want the real thing go here:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html#Anchorslottop

 

[Ken]

I was under the assumption that we were not talking about board replacements. The wording is funny, right?

 

[mwilleson]

My apologies if the wording is not clear.

I have hardwood in the kitchen and we took out a wall between the kitchen and the living and are now "extending" the wood floor from the kitchen into the living room area. The new wood will be the same wood species already milled on 4 sides with tongue or groove respectively.

The reason that I was asking about the router bits is that depending on how they were cut some of the existing flooring in the kitchen may not have the grove on the end of the board that I am extending. I thought I saw a reference somewhere to running a router along the end of the board to create a groove so that the tongue on the new board would slide in and keep the two boards level. I realize I can simply nail the end without the tongue / grove, but having a tongue and groove on all four sides would ensure the ends stay level.

This can't be too unusual as they make a special flooring bit for routers.
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5786-fl...dedicated-cutter-and-changeable-bearings.aspx

or

http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5787-fl...dedicated-cutter-and-changeable-bearings.aspx

Again my apologies. I hope this is a clearer explaination.

 

[Ken]

routing new edges is usually something used by professionals for installing borders and such. The field gets installed, cut, and routed. In your situation where Ill assume you are trying to fill the space left by the wall being removed, I would cut out the boards that will run "through the wall" and proceed as you were doing a board replacement. Forget the router, unless you cut coupons with a chainsaw.

 

[Ken]

As far as splining is concerned, I make mine on the table saw out of 1/4 ply. I learned that trick from a very smart old timer.

 

[Ken]

I think this is the perfect example of the internet teaching you just enough to be dangerous, lol. If I can be of any assistance please feel free to ask.

 

[havasu]

Ken, I do agree that some viewers have very little experience, and others have a vast experience. We all have problems trying to discern the abilities of others, so this should serve as a warning to all that we really don't know what you are capable of doing, so if this is a little over anyone's head, please consult with an expert.

Also, I have found pics gives us all an idea as to exactly what you are trying to accomplish, and we all love pictures, so please use them as much as possible!

 

[FloorMaven]

I am also considering ripping any splines needed on a table saw which would lend itself to the square type mortise, but again, my main question centers around tearout and the best grove.

Mike, you have the right idea, square corners for splines and round corners for adding factory milled floor. Most guys use square for both as it allows a little extra room for glue. Also, its difficult to be sure that the bit radius matches the floor radius.

 

[FloorMaven]

As far as splining is concerned, I make mine on the table saw out of 1/4 ply.

I find it difficult to get true 1/4" birch ply and a hw spline is much sturdier IMO.

 

[JIMMIEM]

As far as splining is concerned, I make mine on the table saw out of 1/4 ply. I learned that trick from a very smart old timer.

I need to make some splines and like your idea. The grooves in my flooring is 1/4 and most plywood that I see is just under 1/4. Will this undersized plywood be ok or do I need to find plywood that is a full 1/4?

 

[Ken]

The smaller size is fine, you have to glue and nail them into the groove anyway. The glue will fill in the remaining space. It can be difficult squeezing a pc that's too big and that can also lead to a little overwood on the following row.

 

[eric248]

Dam ken, don't blow a gasket, Christ I hope when you ask I question to somebody they don't respond in the same fashion!

 

[Ken]

I'm not sure I follow. Are you joking around? I didn't think I being rude, I thought I was being informative.

 

[Floorist]

I'm not sure I follow. Are you joking around? I didn't think I being rude, I thought I was being informative.

Me too. I saw nothing wrong with your answer.

 

[eric248]

Sorry it took so long to reply, I was referring to your first response the gentlemen question.

 

[Ken]

Hold on, let me check it out...

 

[Ken]

Yeah, I just read the whole post again and wouldn't change a thing. The OP wanted to use a router for something that didn't need it AND the wording was funny. Sometimes its hard to type exactly what you want to say and I think that was the issue. I think he got the answer he was looking for. Nothing further was asked. I'm the first to admit when I'm being a wiseass but this was not the case this time. I apologize if my lack of tone, since we are typing and not speaking, led anyone to think I was jumping down someone's throat.