Homerwood wide plank

[Don Monfils]

I am starting a good sized 7" wide Homerwood solid 3/4" install tomorrow. It's going over plywood and being stapled down. I noticed the instructions say the following
"NOTE: SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR PLANK (4” and wider) FLOORING
Seasonal distor tion (shrinkage/cupping) in wide width flooring [4” (10 cm) and over] may be reduced by gluing the flooring to the subfloor, in addition to the use of mechanical fasteners. The installer should be reminded that adhesives used for this purpose will not perform their function when used in conjunction with a moisture retardant. Glue assisted applications will not be satisfactory without direct contact with the subfloor. The glue should be a premium grade urethane construction adhesive applied in a serpentine pattern to the back of the hardwood as noted below.
Note: Be sure to wipe off any adhesive on the top surface of the board, when installed, before it dries. It can damage the finish of your floor when removing dried adhesive."
I have never done this before and seems like it would add a lot of time to the install. After getting my first 2-3 rows set , I usually rack out a large portion of the room then start installing.
I could see this getting messy as well.
Anyone have experience with this?

Also what kind (labor only) up charge would you guys add for the added step of the adhesive?

 

[Ernesto]

I've never had to do that yet either. But thats going to slow you down prolly 50%. Good luck getting that.
When I took the Carlisle Certified Master Craftsman Program test they wanted the beads perpendicular to the plank about every four to six inches.

 

[Don Monfils]

Yeah that is right,View attachment ImageUploadedByFlooring Forum1460324059.074572.jpg
The adhesive was just sprung on me Friday .
The job is 1,300 sq. ft.

I finished up a 700 sq.ft . job yesterday with unfinished 2 1/4" solid, I forgot what a treat the narrow boards were.
It was my customer so I charged what I wanted to.

 

[Nick]

I hate 2 1/4 . you nail all day ,look back and you went 3 ft .

 

[Don Monfils]

Especially when you get to the hallway with 8 doorways.

 

[EliteFloors]

Did an 8" floor about a month ago now. I added an extra $1.25 per sq ft and came out pretty good. We still rack out after leaving about a 18" for the glue. We always put the glue on the sub floor tho

 

[Nick]

Get some Mineral spirits , and a Mr Clean magic sponge Don in case you get any glue that set's up on the face .

 

[Don Monfils]

The job is done!View attachment ImageUploadedByFlooring Forum1461547701.159699.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByFlooring Forum1461547733.900126.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByFlooring Forum1461547777.521350.jpg

 

[EliteFloors]

Looks great! Always fun scribing around stone

 

[Ernesto]

Why dont you undercut the stone?

 

[Don Monfils]

For one , there was a $40,000 baby grand piano in the room.
Also these people have bad allergies and wanted no dust.

 

[Floorist]

I get a lot of customers who don't want things undercut. They even want me to trim vinyl to fit, which is the way we did it for years anyway.

 

[Incognito]

I love the scribe fit to the stone look. It's a thing of beauty.

 

[Ernesto]

For one , there was a $40,000 baby grand piano in the room.
Also these people have bad allergies and wanted no dust.

I hear ya. Really though, if you use the proper tools there isn't any less dust than the wood install.
I just think it looks better than a big gap thats going to get filled with dirt.
Unless you use some backer rod and matching grout to fill it with.

 

[Ernesto]

Not sure you saw this thread I posted with the backer rod Don.

http://www.flooringforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4088

 

[Don Monfils]

That's interesting!
Can that be installed after the job is done.
Where would I find something like this.
I have to go back at some point and we're going to use a gray color silicone to match the stone mortar.

 

[Ernesto]

That's interesting!
Can that be installed after the job is done.
Where would I find something like this.
I have to go back at some point and we're going to use a gray color silicone to match the stone mortar.

Yes that is what I was doing, I had just installed that hardwood. And they didn't want it undercut either, You can find backer rod just about anywhere, box stores, amazon etc. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OC1ITU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I also use matching grout caulk, looks better than any silicone. Besides it saving a ton of caulking it can compress easily and comes in different widths.

 

[Don Monfils]

That's some good advice, thank you.

 

[Nick]

Why don't you undercut the stone?

That is the way i do it . Looks nice though Don .

 

[Don Monfils]

Thanks Nick