Ideas on finishing Stair edge...

[Deeber]

I am adding LVP to my basement stairs but I'm not sure what to do to finish the open side edges. See pic of stairs. The railing will be on the wall side...just not sure how to finish the LVP edges on the open side of the stairs. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Incognito]

Might be easier to just go solid hardwood. But if you're good enough you can scab on some sort of skirting/stringer with real wood to cut the plastic wood into thus hiding the ugly side view. It could be just a painted wood but I'd think real wood that matches the fake plastic look you've chosen would be best.

 

[highup]

Might be easier to just go solid hardwood. But if you're good enough you can scab on some sort of skirting/stringer with real wood to cut the plastic wood into thus hiding the ugly side view. It could be just a painted wood but I'd think real wood that matches the fake plastic look you've chosen would be best.

I like the idea of those sideboards. Even if that part was difficult it would make the stairs go much easier.

 

[Mark Brown]

If you want to retain the look of your stairs it is not all that impossible to wrap nosing around the entire exposed edge and install drops of LVT to match. If involves a lot of carpentry skill however it is more than feasible if not a little complex.
Stringer plates would probably be much simpler however you would have to removed the nosing and then build that as well however if that is not a look you are trying to achieve then this option really has no advantage to you.

If it were me I would simply wrap the noses and build drops. You can form most LVP with some back cutting and a blow torch (heat gun) if you have patience and the skills necessary.

 

[C.J.]

See now I was thinkin to just cut the nose off flush with the sheetrock. Patch and paint the sheetrock and the exposed side of the tread then install the LVP. You can wrap the tread with the stair nose and return the exposed edge on the riser.

 

[Mark Brown]

That is definitely a decent idea too, that SPF timber might not paint quite the same but it sure would be a whole lot less work!

 

[C.J.]

The thing with this is that the LVP stair nose won’t cover the 2x. You might have 1/2” if coverage. Putting a stringer up would require the stringer be built out as much as the stair nose overhangs. Popping those treads off and cutting them down is the least amount of work and I don’t think the install would look that bad either.

 

[Mark Brown]

Building a face for the nose of the tread is not all that hard.
Alternatively you could just get some 2"metal nosing but I know how much everyone loves those lol

 

[highup]

Building a face for the nose of the tread is not all that hard.
Alternatively you could just get some 2"metal nosing but I know how much everyone loves those lol

It comes in different colors.

 

[C.J.]

Building a face for the nosing don’t look right to me. It makes it look like you built a face for the nosing. Sometimes that’s what you gotta do but so far I’ve managed to have never done that. More n more I like the solid wood tread idea. White risers with stained treads. That’s what they’re doing in the million+ dollar houses on the lake. Then they follow that up with LVP throughout the rest of the house. They’re $11, for now. Seems like a deal seeings how a sheet of 3/4” sanded face plywood is $75 right now.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/48-in-x-11-1-2-in-Unfinished-Pine-Stair-Tread-8503E-048-HD00L/202087175

 

[Deeber]

Wow, lots of valuable feedback. I have already ordered the stair nosing which will only cover 18mm (approx 3/4") the front of the tread so yes have also been wondering what I will do there. This gives me lots of possible ideas. I like the idea of the new wood treads and risers but I have three original stairs not shown going up from the landing which are deeply embedded and not easily removed. I'm considering to try and somehow cut off nosing and cover these with new tread and risers but not sure. I will add a pic of the top 3 original stairs which also need a lot of work. Thanks for all the input.

 

[Mark Brown]

Those stairs are super easy. Either like you say, cut the nosing off or face the front of them with plywood to match the depth of the nosing. Then you have a boxed stair and away you go.

 

[Tom Picciani]

The red oak retreads at Lumber Liquidators was really nice stuff. I even got free delivery. 1 piece was damaged and they replaced it in store. They consist o a 5/8 inch tread with nosing, and a 1/4 inch riser. I used Zar Teak Natural stain, which was sold at a Benjamin Moore dealer. I applied 3 coats of Varathane oil based semigloss. I got stair treads so my dog wouldn’t slip on stairs.

 

[Deeber]

Thanks Mark. My concern with cutting off the nosing is the treads are already too narrow and slant down 1/4 inch so I want to try and rectify this a bit in the process.

Tom, very nice. I would be more than happy if my finished product looked as good.

 

[C.J.]

I would only cut off the part of the nose that overhangs the wall.

 

[Tom Picciani]

Thanks Mark. My concern with cutting off the nosing is the treads are already too narrow and slant down 1/4 inch so I want to try and rectify this a bit in the process.

Tom, very nice. I would be more than happy if my finished product looked as good.

for those stairs I would use white oak retreads from lumber liquidators, staining a color to match the floor upstairs. I would use poplar risers. They come primed and painted white and cost $15 each.

you want to make a stair gauge. It looks like an H.

look online for ideas.

 

[Deeber]

I'm familiar with stair gauge. Are you saying I could put these on top of existing treads and risers? I don't think I can remove the treads. If so, would they be glued or screwed or both? Thanks.

 

[Tom Picciani]

Yes. You cut the nose off and nail these on top. You start at the bottom. Put on riser then tread, then riser, then tread.

 

[Tom Picciani]

You glue and nail. I used 2 inch 18 gauge brads in a harbor freight nail gun.

 

[Deeber]

Perfect. Sounds like a plan. Thanks for all the helpful input. I probably won't get to the stairs for a few weeks but hopefully I'm done with all the questions...