Laying Hardwood in an Octagonal Pattern

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jboris

New Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2023
Messages
2
Location
Austin TX
I’m going to install a ¾” x 5” solid oak floor (Select quality) in an octagonal room, with concentric octagon “rings” of flooring. Every board will end with a 22.5º miter cut, in which I’ll route a groove and install a spline.

There are 2 options:

  1. Rings meet at miters, like this: https://www.svbwoodfloors.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/SVB-Foyer-Octagonal-300x300.jpg
  2. Rings terminate at “spokes”, which come from a “hub,” like this: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSPibuZRZlnDPWTnkXFXrxyndQ_xijo6Hx2kQ&usqp=CAU
Either takes a ton of precision. I’m a solid carpenter – and have installed a handful of solid floors, did an excellent job I’d say… but I’m but not a seasoned pro. I want to make up for that with good planning + patience :)

I lean to Option 2, because Option 1 requires perfect cuts to make that long hairline between the miters dead straight. The spokes will hide some discrepancy (and will mirror the ceiling beams). Option 1 also requires every piece in a ring to be the exact same width in order for the “ring lines” to look right – even a 5 1/64” piece will create gaps.

If I do Option 2… should install all the spokes up front or not? I say no – because I’m doing a glue-assist install (cleat-nails + stripes of Bona glue). I’ll have to dry-fit most pieces repeatedly to get a perfect fit… and once I’m there, I’ll have to remove the piece, add glue, put it back, and nail it. Problem is, pulling out a piece perfectly wedged in between 2 spokes is very likely to damage it.

So, here’s how I’d do it:

  1. Install an octagonal medallion with 5” L sides (so that I can use 5” W flooring for the spokes).
  2. Install just one spoke. Hold in place w/blocks.
  3. Install flooring up to it, stopping where the next ray goes. Stay straight w/14’ L straight-edge.
  4. Put a 14’ L straight-edge against the exposed edge, and sand any proud pieces to perfection (this is a major advantage of this method.
  5. Install next spoke. (Final section requires wedging.)
Would really appreciate any thoughts or general advice! I’m more nervous about this than the first time I framed a roof… I can’t find anyone in Texas who’s even done this before.
 
I think it depends on what you want to look at. Either way, you’ve got a lot of cuttin and fittin to do. If you go with the rings I would snap lines at the intersections and work one ring at a time spiraling outwards. Don’t know if I would trust cutting all my miters at once for an entire ring because a slight banana in a board will throw your angles off.
 
Hoping to start in a week. For now, here's a nice decagonal floor in Ash that's inspiring me! Like a genetic splice between Red Oak & Hickory~
 
From a guy that doesn't do hardwood, I'd think about laying all the spokes first.
Also, tho it would be a bit spendy, maybe buy a second saw. One for each angle so you don't need to swing back and forth each time. Sell the second saw when you're finished.
If you get lucky enough, if you could set up a movable stop on one of the saws and duplicate some of your cuts for other spokes.
 
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