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highup

Will work for food
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My 93 S10 head the old style one wire O2 sensor and shortly after I bought it I replace it with a three wire heated O2 sensor.
I'll have to dig back in my records to find the mileage when I bought the truck. I'm kind of guessing without looking that I've got about 70,000 miles on the Upgraded 3 wire O2 sensor. I've sprayed and poured a lot of stuff into the throttle body over the years, lots of seafoam, carb cleaner, and of course the leaky valve seals and who knows what else that could wreck havoc on an O2 sensor.
I put the new one in tonight, got it in just before dark. I gave it a rip around the block couple of times and I'm thinking it's helped.
Whenever I start the truck it takes about 16 or 17 seconds for it to come off of high idle. Now it seems closer to 13, so something changed there.
When it comes off of high idle it stayed pretty high, 1200 and occasionally drop down to 1,000.
Just in my few miles of driving I started and stopped it a few times and it seems to be coming down to 900 or 1,000 consistently, so I'm hoping this is another major fix.
I'll find out tomorrow how much different it runs especially when the engine is cold. It's always run good, it's just the idol is a bit erratic and it never wants to come immediately down to a normal idle. It always kind of hangs high and eventually comes down sometimes..... maybe.
I've had the sensor for three or four months but the weather's been too crappy and I haven't had time to mess with it. One more item off the list of maintenance stuff.
It'll be interesting to find out how does affects my mileage.
Anyway, out with the old, in with the new.
 

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This winter has been crappy.... cold, rainy, windy. Lack of time and conditions to work outside cost me a $220 tow bill in December.
Because of that, I bought the O2 sensor, MAP sensor, ignition pickup coil, a new coil, new ignition control module, and recently a throttle position sensor. It's got new plugs and wires too. What's that =1 car payment? It's a POS, but I know what's fixed and what isn't. ......it still runs. Good enough for this old hippie.
 
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I used to do all my own work. Had a 60 chevy panel truck with a 235 straight 6 I did a valve job on before eventually swapping it out for a 283. I did it with a rented hoist right out in the street. There was almost enough room in the engine compartment for me to stand in it... I think I still have my timing light somewhere?.... That was then...

The other day I finally figured out how to open the hood on my daughter's Jeep. I was looking for the battery... I couldn't find it...Turned out to be under the seat in the passenger compartment...I give up, I'm officially old... :waiting:
 
Is magical as new cars are, when you open the hood you can't see spark plug wires, you can't see hardly anything it's also pretty.
.......and the engine bay is packed full. I watched lots of Fix-It videos on cars and a lot of v6s are turned crossways in the engine bay. The front three plugs are always hard to get out but the back ones sometimes take removal of the intake manifold and can take hours and hours to disassemble everything required to change the plugs. How do you like taking your car to a shop and it cost $1,000 to replace the plugs? The only upside is the plugs last for 100,000 miles. That said, be wary of a used car that you bought that has one of those engines and also has 85,000 miles on it.
Like you and your panel truck, I can sit on the front across member of my pickup, the radiator to remove the carburetor or loosen the distributor nut. ....and I'm 6'3.
.... Well I was, I'm not sure how tall I am these days 😁
On that old 73 Chevy pickup, I had removed the stock fan and put on a single electric fan. That left a large open space between the radiator and the front of the engine. I can't believe how much stuff they cram into an engine bay these days.
If I had a newer vehicle I know it would absolutely be worth spending a couple of hundred even 400 on a code scanning tool. If the car wasn't running right and you plugged in the scanner and it told you the O2 sensors were bad that's something you could probably do yourself. That one trip to the dealer would cost more than the tool you bought. The code scanner might also keep you from getting ripped off if you take it to a shop because you'd pretty much know what it needed before you even took it in.
 

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