Should I keep the white baseboard when installing wood flooring?

[VAer]

Attached photos: I will replace carpet with engineered wood flooring. Now should I keep the white baseboard?

The reason to keep it is: the vertical strip is not long enough to reach wood flooring.

I am not sure if there is a problem to keep the white board. My concern is: I am going to paint wood panel for now, but in the future, if I don't like painted wood panel, I hope I will have an option to remove wood panel. At that time, if I remove wood panel, then I will also remove baseboard, then there will be gap between edge of wood flooring and drywall.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[highup]

I think the white baseboard is way too stark..... I'd rather see the walls (paneling) painted, and the base match the floor.

 

[VAer]

I think the white baseboard is way too stark..... I'd rather see the walls (paneling) painted, and the base match the floor.

Yes, the dark wood panel will be painted with a light color.

But go back to original question (not about color), should I keep the baseboard?

 

[VAer]

For the FIRST photo, does anyone know if it is an issue if I keep the white baseboard now and install wood flooring, but I may decide to remove wood panel in a few years.

Thanks.

 

[Nick]

You have to leave a 1/2" gap around all the walls with the wood . I would remove it .

 

[VAer]

You have to leave a 1/2" gap around all the walls with the wood . I would remove it .

There are two issues if removing the white baseboard:
1) It may not be easy to remove it, since it is likely VAT tile (containing Asbestos) below the carpet. So it is better to leave it alone. AND the white baseboard is stalled BEFORE tile installation. That says, white baseboard is NOT on the top of tile.

2), As the attached photo shows, if removing white baseboard, then the vertical strip is NOT long enough to reach wood flooring.



Now go back to original question, if keeping white baseboard, how should I remove wall wood panel in a few years (if I don't like wood panel).

Thanks.

 

[Ernesto]

Looks like the ole 1/2" x 2 3/4" clamshell baseboard. They still make it. The wall is going to be messed up no doubt from fasteners so I would go with a taller and wider paint grade base.

The VAT is not an issue as long as you do not sand or pulverize it. If it breaks up a little while taking out the tackstrip and base it's no big deal. And if your worried spray it down with water.
Out here in AZ homeowners are allowed to take out VAT and sheet vinyl that contains asbestos. It is such a minuscule amount it can't hurt you if your careful. I've literally taken out tens of thousands of that junk and I'm still alive with no lung issues.

 

[VAer]

Looks like the ole 1/2" x 2 3/4" clamshell baseboard. They still make it. The wall is going to be messed up no doubt from fasteners so I would go with a taller and wider paint grade base.

The VAT is not an issue as long as you do not sand or pulverize it. If it breaks up a little while taking out the tackstrip and base it's no big deal. And if your worried spray it down with water.
Out here in AZ homeowners are allowed to take out VAT and sheet vinyl that contains asbestos. It is such a minuscule amount it can't hurt you if your careful. I've literally taken out tens of thousands of that junk and I'm still alive with no lung issues.

VAT will stay and be covered by underlayment, wood flooring will be floating installed on the top. Based on contractor, I have also ordered quarter round, there will be not taller base. White baseboard will stay too.

 

[highup]

VAT will stay and be covered by underlayment, wood flooring will be floating installed on the top. Based on contractor, I have also ordered quarter round, there will be not taller base. White baseboard will stay too.

You mentioned possibly removing the paneling in the future. That said, I'd remove the base in a nanosecond. Use a drift punch or a nail set to drive each nail in, then the base ought to come out fairly easy. If you drive the nails most of the way in, the base will just about fall out. Removing the tackstrip will inevitably take out chunks of the old tile, and that too will make the base easier to lift out. If the tile is thin, it wont even be an issue. The tile is either 1/8" or 3 /32 of an inch thick. Once out, you can prep and prime the baseboards and give it a darker color.
If a shoe or 1/4 round is added to the white base, you will need to leave at least 1/4" gap between the engineered wood flooring and that white base. That will put you at least 3/4" away from the paneling if the base is ever removed so you can change the wall surface. Any changes you make down the road will need to cover that 3/4"gap. My thinking is down the road rather than right now.
Food for thought. Remove a section of tackstrip, then remove one small piece of base ( one or two feet) to see if it's easy or not.

 

[Ernesto]

Removing the paneling seems like a lot of work. I've textured paneling with joint compound before then painted it. Looks like sheetrock. But you have to remove the seam and corner pieces.

 

[Nick]

They have a product called sizing you put on first , then paint it .

It's a material ..

 

[Nick]

They have a product called sizing you put on first , then paint it .

It's a material .. https://www.brewsterwallcovering.com/hang-wallpaper-over-paneling.aspx

 

[highup]

That does work, especially if the paneling is real wood. Composite paneling, I'd remove.