Stair caps

[Chaucer]

Hi,

I'm replacing the carpet on my stairs with new hardwood stair treads. Two questions:

1. Is there a preference to remove the old stair tread (pines under the carpet) or just place the new one over it. I know I need to cut the nose off the old tread if I keep it.

2. I have a gage to help make the pattern for the new cut width, but in doing my first one, it is very close, but a very small gap remains due to a slight uneveness against the skirt. Is this gap filled with anything? Wood filler stained?

Thank you

 

[JPfloor]

If you go over the existing treds be sure the height of all the steps remain the same or at least very close. Could be a problem with the top and/or bottom step. If your existing steps are set into the stringer (probably are) removal could prove difficult.

Get your scribe cuts as tight as possible. Wood filler is not a preferred option.

 

[C.J.]

Hi,

I'm replacing the carpet on my stairs with new hardwood stair treads. Two questions:

1. Is there a preference to remove the old stair tread (pines under the carpet) or just place the new one over it. I know I need to cut the nose off the old tread if I keep it.

2. I have a gage to help make the pattern for the new cut width, but in doing my first one, it is very close, but a very small gap remains due to a slight uneveness against the skirt. Is this gap filled with anything? Wood filler stained?

Thank you

How much of a gap? 1/16”? Split the difference between each side.

One thing I do is I check the stair widths before I start. If some are wider than others I will start with them first. That way if I cut it short I can recut it and use it on one of the other treads.

 

[Chaucer]

The gap is very small...much less than a 1/16"

I just thought you would fill any visable gap with something so there is no gap visable at all. (like you do with caulk..but not using caulk).


Thank you

 

[JPfloor]

If it’s that small and it bothers you could use a little filler but the stain never matches quite right. You could just pad the stringer out with a little caulk or spackle and paint.

 

[Tile Tom]

Most of the time I build out the risers with plywood. Only because a lot of time you won't be able to hide the spot on the stringer where you cut the nose off.

 

[C.J.]

Most of the time I build out the risers with plywood. Only because a lot of time you won't be able to hide the spot on the stringer where you cut the nose off.

That and you can remove what you use to build out the risers with if you ever want to go back to the original specs on the stairs. Once you cut the nose it’s a done deal.

 

[Tile Tom]

I also calk my sides. I don't like to put them in so snug that they make a sound on the stringer when walked up/down. I usually leave about 1/32" on both sides then calk them.

So far only happy customers!

 

[Chaucer]

I also calk my sides

Hi, What kind of caulkdo you use..it's a bit hard to tell from the picture,but it looks dark.

Thank you for the answers.

 

[Incognito]

I also calk my sides. I don't like to put them in so snug that they make a sound on the stringer when walked up/down. I usually leave about 1/32" on both sides then calk them.

So far only happy customers!

If the customer is happy I would never argue with that.

 

[Tile Tom]

Hi, What kind of caulkdo you use..it's a bit hard to tell from the picture,but it looks dark.

Thank you for the answers.

Any kind. Whatever color you can get close to your material.
I usually have a couple different colors and have the customer pick.

 

[Tile Tom]

Also, that was dap brown calk. It was still fresh and will lighten up a bit when it dries.

 

[Chaucer]

Hi..another question. I see there are white risers that are either 3/8 thick or 3/4. Is there a reason to use one thickness over the other?

Thank you

 

[Tile Tom]

To build out your riser a bit more.

I usually use the 3/8 one and build my risers out with plywood. Sometimes all stairs aren't equal. Meaning some I will build out with 3/4 ply and some with 1/2".... All on the same staircase.

 

[Chaucer]

Hi, Thanks for all the answers..project going good so far.

What is the prefered way to transition at the top, which is a riser, to a rug on the landing in the hallway?

Thank you

 

[Tile Tom]

Leave the carpet going over the top bullnose if there is one there. If not leave it going down the riser.
You'll either end the wood on the top tread or top riser.

 

[JPfloor]

Pictures would help…
Just remember you do have to keep all the heights equal. Now that you’ve raised all the steps you may need to raise the top landing. A bullnose matching the steps could accomplish that. You might then need to ramp the carpet up to meet that nose… Steps are tricky.

 

[Chaucer]

Hi,

My project is complete..thanks to all the help here. I'm happy with the outcome excpet for one aspect. Because the skirt was not flat or warped, my limited skills and the limitations of my equipment, you can see the gap near skirt. I'm looking for suggestions of what I can do to fill and make it look better from the front. Some are better than others...seem slike it would have taken individual scribing that I did not do.

I read somewhere where someone fabricated a new skirt board to go over it over 1/4-3/8 luan, but that looked hard to do.

Thank you,

View attachment 16079

View attachment 16079

 

[havasu]

How about an elasticized caulking? Either that or some small quarter round pieces with lots of funky angled cuts.

 

[C.J.]

Got any stair tread material left? How about cutting a wedge shaped sliver and filling the gap.