What leveler over ceramic tile?

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highup

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Might have a job installing vinyl in a 7 1/2 by 19 foot room. The lady doesn't like the ceramic tile, and wants vinyl installed there.
It's a dining room, with a sliding door between this room and the kitchen. Kitchen has a different ceramic tile in it.
Kinda odd, but I guess it was a porch area at some other time, which explains the sliding door. The door is coming out...... by either me or her son.
The tile was fit up to this sliding door and I'll need to fill in the gap between these two tiled areas once the door is removed.

I'm wondering if a self leveler could be used as the initial skim coat over this tile.
Because self levelers are thin and runny, I figured that it would work to do he main filling in the wide grout lines and help bridge the uneven height of some of the 12 x 12 tiles............. some tile corners stick up slightly.
I figured that if a self leveler was applied by screeding with my 5 foot piece of angle aluminum, this would make a good initial fill because it flows out flat without leaving ridges. Because the kitchen tile and this dining room tile are about the same thickness, I can't raise the height much, as in making a 1/4 inch pour.

I didn't have a straight edge or level with me, but I think this area is level, not sloped. One good screed with a self leveler might get the floor 95% flat in one felled swoop. Any residual high tile corners could be feathered out with a regular patch, like Webcrete or Feather Finish.
 
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Incognito said:
...then paint the flammable contact cement down as a primer.

Seriously?

Knock down the high spots and prime with ardex p82 then skim coat.
 
Seriously?

Knock down the high spots and prime with ardex p82 then skim coat.
Only thing I have to grind with is my old Ryobi 4 1/2" angle grinder. Not sure how many tile corners need grinding or how much any of them would require to have ground off.
Not a job worth buying an actual diamond cup wheel for. Concrete and tile leveling with a grinder is something I don't run into. Up here most everything is on wood.
I'd probably have to use a cheap diamond cut off wheel to do minor grinding if that would be sufficient to knock a little off the ceramic tile. I don't know if it's porcelain.

When I went over to measure the room, all I knew is that it was a rectangle, and needed to be measured for length.

Once I got there, I discovered the job was going to be a lot more involved. All I took over there was a note pad and a tape measure. I need to make another trip over there to see what's going to be required to remove that sliding door between the kitchen and dining room.

You're sayin to just clean the tile, roll on the p82 and skim it with Feather finish?
I know most self levelers ask for a thicker pour rather than a skim coat............. that's why I was asking about using it.
 
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yeah, scuff-----not grind.

any sealers or anything like that needs to be off of there

I do have a Clark 13 inch buffer. I suppose a black or brown pad would enough to remove any kind of sealer. If not, I suppose a 20 grit sanding disk could make contact with enough of the surface. I have an edger too.
 
I do have a Clark 13 inch buffer. I suppose a black or brown pad would enough to remove any kind of sealer. If not, I suppose a 20 grit sanding disk could make contact with enough of the surface. I have an edger too.

I'd like to see a heavier machine but with the HEAVIEST grit sandpaper you can get it'll just take much longer with a lightweight model. You will get the job done--------scuffing off the finish and opening up the pores of the tile to get a bond.
 
Incognito said:
-scuffing off the finish and opening up the pores of the tile to get a bond.

You don't need to do that with p82. It's designed to prime non-porous surfaces.
 
I'd like to see a heavier machine but with the HEAVIEST grit sandpaper you can get it'll just take much longer with a lightweight model. You will get the job done--------scuffing off the finish and opening up the pores of the tile to get a bond.

My brother used to have a 16 inch buffer. We'd put a 90 lb bag of sand on it. Just lay it over the motor.
For the edger, I recall being able to get 12 grit at one time many years ago. Hard to get 16 anymore. 16 was fantastic on the edger for knocking down seam edges on plywood and removing sheetrock clods to begin vinyl prep.
 
Seriously?

Knock down the high spots and prime with ardex p82 then skim coat.

Yeah Ardex P82 would be fine. If I had some on my truck that's what I'd use. I'm still going to SAND the everloving SHIT off the surface before priming. You know I get paid by the hour, right?

In 35 years I've laid resilient over ceramic MAYBE a dozen or so times and the biggest area was just a couple thousand feet over Saltillo tiles in basement of the YMCA in Pasadena to prep for linoleum. So then when I come to smaller ceramic areas I know this method works so I grab a gallon of contact and smear it over there with a piece of carpet on a trowel.

Not sure about the cost comparisons but we ALWAYS have gallons of contact cement laying about. If I call the shop for Ardex primer they make a big freaking ordeal out of it like I asked them to solve rubik's cube
https://www.google.com/search?q=rub...msiQLfsYHYCg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1114&bih=511

We don't have any HERE in the shop!
The truck driver is in San Diego and tomorrow.............
Maybe the Big D in Garden Grove might have some in stock......
I'll call you right back......

MAYBE I'll get some P82 on the second Tuesday of next week.....if that truck driver doesn't have to make 4 other stops that day. If I did ask for it he'd show up with less than I need the day I'm hanging base and putting on reducers.

I'm not independent. My decisions and opinions are CONTINGENT upon working with a whole team of...........fine professionals.

Ya tu sabes.
 
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right? thats hilarious---the industry is designed that less than one percent of PROFESSIONAL installers follow the ever changing specs---this trickery is for the sole purpose of the mills making more and more seconds and then sending out squads of employee/inspectors that will always blame the installers---in response to this scheme any installer with any self respect has found more honorable means of employment like used car salesman and running an escort service--the rest of us are glorified diy ers or crackhead hacks---aka the butt end of a joke ---the current definition of a professional flooring installer is a person who got paid to put in a floor---i wish there was more to it but we all know there isnt----right? funniest thing ive heard all day
 
right? thats hilarious---the industry is designed that less than one percent of PROFESSIONAL installers follow the ever changing specs---this trickery is for the sole purpose of the mills making more and more seconds and then sending out squads of employee/inspectors that will always blame the installers---in response to this scheme any installer with any self respect has found more honorable means of employment like used car salesman and running an escort service--the rest of us are glorified diy ers or crackhead hacks---aka the butt end of a joke ---the current definition of a professional flooring installer is a person who got paid to put in a floor---i wish there was more to it but we all know there isnt----right? funniest thing ive heard all day

Hmmmm, well the clients I have that call pay for me to do it right. Thats why they call me. They could call a hack outa CL just as easily. And pay alot less. But they call me cause they see and know I do jobs to spec.
Either your in the game for the big dollars our your on the outs with the hack-a-billies.
 

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