When you double strip a room

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highup

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........is there a certain size room when you always double strip it?
How about a 21 by 30+ room with a dense cut pile with an action back........ not softback.
I'm re-doing this one because the customer didn't like their new carpet. The entire room is 30 by 38, and has a stairway intersecting into the space.
The original installer used a double stinger and tho the tackstrip marks on the backing are elongated, the carpet didn't recede from the walls at all once I released it. The seam tape going across the middle of the room was also still stuck to the pad. Overall, the installation looked pretty good. The room was installed 4 months ago and has never been used.
Double strip, or not to double strip, THAT is the question.
 
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According to the CRI anything over 30 feet should be double stripped or commercial strip put down. Now I use tri-tack for everything. The 3 rows of pins is what they are looking for. You don't say the size of the strip that is down.

Daris
 
There really is no question.
There really was no answer either, so we're even. :D
Hope this makes it easier to see.

........is there a certain size room when you always double strip it?
How about a 21 by 30+ room with a dense cut pile with an action back........ not softback.
I'm re-doing this one because the customer didn't like their new carpet. The entire room is 30 by 38, and has a stairway intersecting into the space.

The original installer used a double stinger and tho the tackstrip marks on the backing are elongated, the carpet didn't recede from the walls at all once I released it. The seam tape going across the middle of the room was also still stuck to the pad. Overall, the installation looked pretty good. The room was installed 4 months ago and has never been used.
Double strip, or not to double strip, THAT is the question.
 
According to the CRI anything over 30 feet should be double stripped or commercial strip put down. Now I use tri-tack for everything. The 3 rows of pins is what they are looking for. You don't say the size of the strip that is down.

Daris

Nobody will stock tri-tack here. Even the places they order it from don't have it. You can get 2" wide strip if you special order it.
The strip that's down now is 1 inch wide with 1" nails. That's what I use. It's stronger than regular strip, but has the same number of tacks.
 
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Nobody will stock tri-tack here. Even the places they order it from don't have it. You can get 2" wide strip if you special order it.
The strip that's down now is 1 inch wide with 1" nails. That's what I use. It's stronger than regular strip, but has the same number of tacks.

Same thing here. The Roberts "cheapo" strip is all you can get here.
 
Same thing here. The Roberts "cheapo" strip is all you can get here.
Ours is stamped Made in USA..... it's pretty good strip. The distributors here won't stock it because they say they have to buy a full pallet load. I think they are idiots, because they could buy a pallet load, then set the initial price super low and push the retailers to buy some to try out. I bet once installers used it, they might find it's pretty nice on some jobs. I think the distriibutors are missing out an an opportunity.
..............then again, 99% of installers around here use a stinger and only stretch enough to hook the carpet on the tacks. Those guys wouldn't see an advantage of tri-tack strip.
 
There probably are a couple dozen reasons why an extra row of strip is advantageous, and maybe three that I can think of where it might be a detriment. Two of those issues are the picture framing effect and wear issues at thresholds; though both can be overcome using simple techniques. The other, not so easy to overcome, is if the job can't handle the additional $20 in expenditures.[/QUOTE]

Its not like this is a bid job. I'm sure the extra $20 wouldn't even be noticed. But in High's case he already has one row down. Just add a row of cheap tackles behind it. I'm sure on a room that big he will be glad he did. It makes it so much easier to hook.
Picture framing I think depends on the thickness of the pad. I push 3/8 so its not as noticeable.

Daris
 
I never got the hang of the residential/standard strip.

Not much stretch carpet goes through my shop these days for the past 5-10 years. I'm actually one of the FEW guys left who actually can get sent out on "conventional" installs.

But PLEASE......commercial strip only.

So to answer the original question:

double up on the longer stretch walls without hesitation
 
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There probably are a couple dozen reasons why an extra row of strip is advantageous, and maybe three that I can think of where it might be a detriment. Two of those issues are the picture framing effect and wear issues at thresholds; though both can be overcome using simple techniques. The other, not so easy to overcome, is if the job can't handle the additional $20 in expenditures.[/QUOTE]

Its not like this is a bid job. I'm sure the extra $20 wouldn't even be noticed. But in High's case he already has one row down. Just add a row of cheap tackles behind it. I'm sure on a room that big he will be glad he did. It makes it so much easier to hook.
Picture framing I think depends on the thickness of the pad. I push 3/8 so its not as noticeable.

Daris
I double strip whenever I think it needs it. If I think a job needs it, I'd eat the $20 before I'd consider not doubling it.
I like how much easier it is to hook the carpet when double stripping.
On the job today, we got the rest of the "new" carpet out and all of the "newest" carpet up and into the room. There's a full 150 yards up there in that new master bedroom suite.

Wowee, what an effort it was to get a 30 footer up those stairs and into the house. It had to go through the living room, then into the narrow hallway and then immediately into a 90 degree turn and pull it up the stairs.
Rolled up the 12 foot way, there was no chance a 12 by 30 carpet this dense could be bent to get it into the stairwell........... so we had to snake it.

Slowly we turned, step by step, inch by inch............... Niagara Falls! (hope someone gets this, because yes, I actually did want to strangle somebody) :D


Anyway, we unrolled the carpet in his pristine shop area, and re-rolled the carpet the long way and into a much longer and more flexible and hopefully easier shape to handle. ...... a 30 foot long snake. It worked. Ha ha...... glad no cameras were rolling.

The diagram is not to scale. The red lines are seams.
There were two long parallel seams on the right half of this large and very open upstairs living space. (A and B in the diagram) Both seams from this new carpet installation were still stuck to the pad. That alone tells you how well it was stretched with the stinger method......... I hate that tool even tho I actually make money fixing this stuff. :rolleyes:

Every two feet along the walls, there are two bumps that I can easily feel through the pad where his double tipped stinger puffed up the OSB a lot. :rolleyes:
I'm not at all sure where this trade is headed with the younger guys learning from the hackers. The young fella that originally did this job, actually does pretty good finish work on these installs and his seams look pretty good. (and no, of course they are not sealed...... who ever does that?)
His stretching tho, like all the others whom jobs I am now routinely fixing, tell me that I may be perpetually employed. Kind of a happy/sad statement.

Make note tho, this job is mainly being replaced because the original carpet was fuzzing. Customer did not expect that. He wants perfection, and also wasn't totally happy with some seams. Personally tho, I thought the seams looked pretty good.

I simply see the stinger as not being capable of stretching the carpet nearly tight enough, and especially so in a room this size.
Seeing the amount of elongation from the tackstrip pins on the backing of the carpet that I just removed and the bulges in the OSB Subfloor told me that he actually tried to stretch it tight................ but he hadn't released the seam tape from the pad, so there's no way he could get it stretched tight across the width or length of the room.
I think the stinger jockeys just stretch around rooms starting from a corner and going around the entire perimeter of the job, stretching a little here and a little there, with no real understanding of the real goal.
...........it might have taken 6 months of regular use or possibly two years before wrinkles would begin forming. Who knows............... I would guarantee tho, this carpet would have needed restretching.

Wouldn't this layout be a fun one to restretch? $$$$$$$$

Oh yes.......... I will be double stripping the job. I was curious what your thoughts were on room size on the topic presented.

Perry layout dimensions.jpg
 
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You know the old saying don't you? "If you are taught by a half assed installer that makes you a quarter assed installer." And so on down the line.
I went through the spike when they first came out. Thought it was the best thing since sliced bread. Then the problems started coming in. When I went on vacation and my stepson who worked for me and ran my crews while I was gone did a job where I had to go back and patch 92 holes where the spike had made marks. End of spike. I will back track and say I do use it to push carpet up where ceramic has been installed in an entry or in a walk in closet where tubes are next to impossible but to big to kick in.

Daris
 
Wasn't the stinger originally designed and promoted as a specialty tool for situations like you just mentioned ? I do think they have their place as a specialty tool...........angled walls, and stretching away from large glass doors etc.
 
Wasn't the stinger originally designed and promoted as a specialty tool for situations like you just mentioned ? I do think they have their place as a specialty tool...........angled walls, and stretching away from large glass doors etc.

And for old mobile homes, where you can't stretch off the walls. Most of them have particle board floors and you can't even use a stretcher like a Behr claws, because the strip won't hold.
 
It was designed for mobile homes. There was one company that would staple up a picture in the mobile home showing using the spike. But the one pictured showed 3 spikes.
Here are pictures of a restretch I just finished up on Sunday-2 days due to bad concrete. Notice how the original installer tried to hold the strip with screws. On some of the interior walls there was a wood board extending out from under the wall plate to nail to. But not all.

Daris

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In the picture with the fireplace you will see bubbles 6 feet apart. Those are pad seams that have duct tape on them. The pad is not overlapped. I was wondering if maybe the tape had something to do with it.
CAN YOU SAY TRIPLE STRIP and still some of it not solid.
The new red strip is tritack.

Daris
 
Daris, what were those metal things called that nailed to the bottom sill plate and tack strip went in them on floors with bad concrete?

I think they were called "them doohickies" some called em thingamajigs :D
I have seen em just once about 10 years ago.
 

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