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T-mold in the closet will be fine. They can be a bit of a pain. You're gonna be ready for your grand re-opening pretty soon. Be nice to have this in the bag, won't it.

I think I can finish laying floor today. Then I have to install baseboard. The thing I’m not looking forward to is removing the carpet from the steps. I hate those tack strips!
 
They aren't that bad. Once pried loose, they can be handled just fine if you don't grab them tightly. Get em loose with a hammer and pry bar and set them off to the side in a pile like you would stack kindling. Stack them onto a strip of carpet that you removed from the steps. Then roll the pieces up like making a burrito.
 
Tom, that looks beautiful! It's making me want to work on my floor but I need to do the patching first but I want running water for that. I've heard that the iron sediment in my water will make the stuff set up faster.

I found that he water didn't drain from the holding tank while off so it's going to be a pain when the pump guy finally gets here. I toggled it on this morning & it stayed on just long enough to fill the toilet tank then shut off. It started up again briefly then faltered. Also, the light is now flashing green underneath the hood rather than blue. I think it's the pressure switch. Still hoping the pump won't have to be replaced & that it's just a switch or something. I'm going to try to make sure I have the parts I need (grab some more elbows & couplings) for when the guy comes to work on it. If stuff does need to be re-routed, I want to make sure I have everything he needs to do it. I woke up around 1:30am and it looked like it was almost daylight outside bc the moon was so bright. I couldn't sleep so I went out to the pump house & gathered up all the loose fittings that were on top of the lid, put them in a storage bin, & took the 1" PVC pipe into the house & put it in the tool closet. That way, he'll be able to lift the lid.

I'm debating whether or not to get more stainless steel elbows to run the suction line a little farther so I can see if that hose can still work to isolate vibrations, or if I should just try to find some other use for it & go from steel to PVC. I got a brass gate valve (which is easier to turn than the ball valves) but I'm worried the brass will cause the stainless steel to corrode if they connect to one another. I believe the hardware store opens at 6am tomorrow so I can grab some more stainless steel pieces & see if they have any brass fittings in 1-1/4".

Highup, he had to replace the wiring in the past. It looks like fairly thick wire-- I think it's either 12 or 10 gauge. But, it was working fine until I altered the water supply so I'm guessing it has to do with the pressure switch or change in pressure. I bumped the pressure gauge on top of the pump while messing around with it so I wonder if I borked it or if it was already dying. If I honestly felt that my fat behind could fit inside the tank without a problem & that I could still climb out, I would go in there & install the new foot valve myself (& get either a friend or my brother to hold the piece on the outside while I screw in the piece on the inside).

My brain just decided to start short-circuiting on me.
 
From my granddaughter.

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The guy is like me. He don't want his strip moving either. I use 1 1/4" cement coated flooring staples beside the regular nails in the strip.
3D galvanized box here. I've seen those ring shanks before, usually in strip that so bad it has to be replaced. Damn I wish those installers would write their home addresses on the floor so I could say thanks when they are asleep. ;)
I had to remove flexible nap-lock from an entry once. A 4' by 4' by 8' sliding glass door entry that had rounded corners. Framing nails! .....and the sub floor was 2x6's :mad::mad::mad:
 
Tom, that sounds like a pain.
Rusty, that's an awesome cookie cake! Father's Day always makes me a little bit sad. Went over and kept my best friend distracted once he got off work bc he just lost his father last year so Father's Day depresses him.
My brother's truck had to be jumpstarted & it turned out one of the battery posts was loose. I went with him to make sure he didn't need another jump start & he got new posts & our friend installed them, then finished downloading stuff for my mother's upgraded computer. My brother is supposed to be bringing it home-- friend said he was on his way about 20 min ago but he's still not home. I hope he didn't get too tired. If he's not home in another 20 min I'll drive out & look for him to make sure he didn't go off the road.
Edit: Nevermind, I see his headlights now.
 
When I install the stair nosing, what adhesive should I use? It's a vinyl right angle piece roughly 2 inches on a side. Should I use double faced tape or PL Premium, or something else? It has no instructions. It looks like I need to run the laminate right to the edge of the stairs. Do you agree?

Thanks.
 

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I did a repair/replacement once on a nose and I used a Urethane adhesive called Masterweld 948. I used 50 grit sandpaper on the back side because the smooth plastic bothered me.
 
You can use blue tape to hold it in position, but it may be best to add some weights to be sure it stays flat and tight to the laminate, in case the urethane swells up a tad. An S-pattern is probably best, but 2 beads parallel would probably be fine. 1/8 to 3/16 bead maybe? Test for coverage and squeeze out with a scrap.
 
You can use blue tape to hold it in position, but it may be best to add some weights to be sure it stays flat and tight to the laminate, in case the urethane swells up a tad. An S-pattern is probably best, but 2 beads parallel would probably be fine. 1/8 to 3/16 bead maybe? Test for coverage and squeeze out with a scrap.

I’m not putting laminate on the steps. The stair nose will transition from the top floor to the top stair riser. I’ll look for Urethane adhesives.
 

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