Hardwood Flooring Starting Point

[power818]

Hey, all, I am new to the forum and will be doing my first hardwood flooring installation in 3 weeks. I am putting down 1500 sq ft of 1/2 in engineered hardwood floors nailed down across 2 different levels with the help of both my parents and in-laws who have both installed hardwood floors in the past. I know that generally you want to start on a long straight wall measured square to the opposite wall; however, I am looking for a little more info as to doing multiple rooms without transitions.

The stair nosing is my main point of question. Both levels will have a stair nosing transition to travel downstairs. Because of this, I am not sure where to start the floors. Here are the not to scale sketches of my floors. The lines on the paper indicate the floor joists, so ideally, I would be running perpendicular to that. The stars indicate where my parents were suggesting we start the floors for simplicity's sake; however, I am unsure that this will provide the best finish. Lastly, the larger of the two openings labeled "stairs" on the downstairs floor is to travel downstairs and is the location of the stair nosing. The smaller of the two is where the upstairs travels down. Any input on the job is appreciated.

 

[highup]

In the top photo I believe you're talking to start the installation left to right where the star is.
On the bottom image you're also talking left to right from where the star is.
That seems logical to me especially if you don't want any transitions.

 

[highup]

What is the floor surface that you will be installing over? Single layer OSB, particle board or plywood?

 

[highup]

They make something called loose tongues. They are strips of wood twice the depth of the groove in the board. You glue a strip of this wood into the groove so now you have a plank with a tongue on each side, so this will allow you to reverse the direction of the planks that you'll be installing. This just means you could be installing from a wall in the middle of the home and work two different directions.

 

[DarisMulkin]

They make something called loose tongues.

I have never heard that before, I always heard them called splines. Loose tongues goes with floppy lips meaning somebody let the cat out of the bag.

 

[highup]

Loose tongue's can't be all bad.

 

[Dan]

I've heard spline called a "slip tongue."

 

[DarisMulkin]

I've heard spline called a "slip tongue."

That is also another name I've heard it called.

 

[highup]

Maybe the term loose tongue was something used by a manufacturer, maybe Wilsonart.

 

[power818]

Maybe the term loose tongue was something used by a manufacturer, maybe Wilsonart.

I will be installing over plywood. I have gotten the carpet up in roughly half of the house so far, and the subfloor seems to be in pretty good shape. All it really needs is a few screws where it squeaks. You are correct that the floor would be laid with the boards left to right in the picture, which would be perpendicular to the floor joists. I was also thinking that this might help with the stair nosing transition as we won't have to be as perfect square to it as we would if the boards were running parallel.

 

[highup]

On that stair nosing you have a benefit. Wood does not expand in length so you could use a flush mount bull nose, avoiding a tripping hazard. You can fit the nose in place first and then butt your boards to it.

 

[Dan]

On that stair nosing you have a benefit. Wood does not expand in length so you could use a flush mount bull nose, avoiding a tripping hazard. You can fit the nose in place first and then butt your boards to it.

Engineered wood does in fact shrink and swell in length.

 

[highup]

I forgot that he said engineered wood, however from what I've read engineered wood expands and contracts at 10% of the amount of solid 3/4-in wood. Look at his diagram and where the stairway is. That area wouldn't move a 16th of an inch if you turned the heat off all winter.