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You just dont make a V-Groove, just use a wider carbide tip and away you go. At the right depth, it works well, I fill the void with PL which I realize might not be the best idea but seeing as I only want it for a filler and it is up against wood, I am not too worried about plastercizers and the...

You still need to two pass, regardless if it is the router or the saw. I mean, you could set one AND the other and then really be cooking lol

I find it slower, tablesaw with a nice fat carbide and away you go. it's about the same either way I suppose but then I would have to fish out my router table lol

the only thing that will work for hydrostatic is going to be epoxy. The misunderstanding about hydrostatic pressure is that in building envelope it is very rare and most the time isn't what you are trying to overcome. Hydrostatic pressure is only present only with submerged. Everything else...

It is really easy, measure a height, draw a line, multi-tool it out and plop in a plinth. Usually they would hold the same reveal as the casing on your door but in this case you will want to install them flush with the door frame, then if you choose you can install something in the frame itself...

Something cheapish and reliable is Planiseal MSP, it is a topical coat barrier for RH up to 99% as long it is not hydrostatic... basically blah blah blah and can be effectively installed on a CSP of 1 although that is not ideal for bonding obviously but it does work. The reason I recommend that...

You have yourself a classic case of DIY. The middle is easy... but that other stuff goes and buggers it all up. There are a few option, most of which aren't fantastic. Filler will work but it will look like a big section of filler. It never really works on bigger areas to blend seeing as one...

Yeah, I cut off the existing nosing because I am worried about the movement in the hollow where there is a possibility for cracking. Like I was saying, I wrap them around a 1x1 and usually fill the holy hell out of the bends. Then I go and glue the riser side of the wrap where the wood is...

This is the last set I did. Don't mind the snow on there, manufactured on site due to time constraints.

Ok, I watched more of his video. I dont wrap them over nosings, I build then around a 1x1 piece of wood for a solid core.

That's how I make them. It's 65 dollars a nosing. Takes about 40 min to manufacture.

As you wish

Those guys are hilarious. They have smashed so much stuff. I have watched a lot of them, smashing stuff never gets old.

I appreciate you trying man... but I am just color dumb. Unlike color blind, it is a condition that only exists in the male section of the species and it is directly in proportion to how many colors a woman sees.

We went with it. Me and the wife a long time ago decided when paint turns out s lot different in the wall than we thought in store, we assume it is fate.... or something and just go for broke. I like it in the end. Its very cozy.

Today I went to home depot to pick out a paint to "match the existing paint" I think I nailed it.... what do you think? ....I mean, I had choices For the record, of my four selections, none were even close.

That is designed that way to mimic the bow in natural tile, no detail was missed :)

The frames are not dependent on contact with the floor. I can demonstrate this in great detail if you wish in the **** project I am working on now where a quarter of their frames do not even contact the floor due to the floors being so bloody out of plane that it would be impossible without...

And then there is the actual code on the matter for anyone who cares... NFPA 80, Fire Doors and Other Opening Protectives, contains information on maximum gap allowances for different types of fire doors. In general, those allowed gaps are as follows: » Clearance for under the bottom of a...

You never make it into the crappy 70's apartments where everything was a bloody steel door frame for reasons i will never ever ever understand?