8 1/4” Table Saw

[C.J.]

Looks like 8 1/4” is the new size for job site table saws. I picked one up yesterday. I got the Dewalt 7485 cus Dewalt is my platform. I haven’t thrown a tape on it to compare the specs but it seems to be the same size as my DW745 that I’ve had for 15 years.

Aside from how thick of material it can cut, what differences have you peeps noticed going from a 10” saw to an 8 1/4” saw. What do you like? What don’t you like?

 

[havasu]

I have a 12" DeWalt compound Miter saw. I can just cut a 5" crown, so I could not imagine the limits with an 8" saw. I do like the lightness of the smaller saw, but it would not be for me.

 

[C.J.]

I have a couple 12” sliding miter saws. Doesn’t get much better than that. I also have the 7.25” cordless slider and that thing works surprisingly well for its smaller size. 5” base and crown would have to be cut on the flat, as opposed to vertical, but it will get you there if that’s all you have. I cut all my crown, and a lot of my base, on the flat anyway so I’m used to it. You set the miter and bevel on your saw for crown and just leave it there. You flip the piece of crown around or upside down to make the cut depending on whether it’s an inside or an outside corner, and which end it’s on, right or left. Once you get used to it it’s pretty quick because you’re not fiddling with adjusting the saw, all you’re doing is making cuts. When you cut crown in the nested position you have to make sure your spring angle is correct, then you’re swinging the miter back n forth for every cut as well as computing in your head which way is the correct way because you’re cutting the crown in the upside down position.

For the 8.25” table saw I’m cutting baseboards n stuff so the smaller capacity doesn’t bother me since most stuff I will be dealing with is 1/2” or 3/4” thick material. I could see it being a problem if you were cutting butcher block or live edge type materials, but flooring and baseboard should be no issue. Gotta be honest, I never liked cranking the blade all the way up on my 10” saw. That’s some sketchy stuff and theres gotta be a better/ safer way to make that cut.

I also wonder about the availability of different blades for the 8.25” saw. You can pick up 10” blades anywhere as well as there are numerous specialty blades available all day long in that size. Haven’t seen much but maybe 3 different tooth count blades for the 8.25”. I like my different blades so this could be an issue for me at some point.

 

[Floorist]

I have a cabinet grade table saw that I gave $1200 for 10 years ago.

 

[C.J.]

I considered getting a Sawstop but in the end I can’t justify paying that high of a price for a compact saw. If I was to get a cabinet saw I believe I would pony up the extra money for one but not for a job site saw. That’s just stupid.

 

[havasu]

I'd love to have a table saw, but damn, they take up so much room.

 

[C.J.]

I'd love to have a table saw, but damn, they take up so much room.

That’s where a compact, maybe even cordless, table saw would work out pretty well. Small enough to set on your workbench and make a few cuts then stow it away underneath when you’re done. Wouldn’t want to try and rip sheets of plywood that way

Now I’m going down table saw memory lane. Before I got my table saw stand I was using a wooden wire spool I found to set my saw up on. It was the perfect height. All I was doing was ripping pieces of laminate flooring at the time so it worked out well enough that I carried that wooden spool around with me for at least a year or more until I finally got my table saw stand. Now I need another one. That’s gonna hurt.

 

[highup]

I bought the same one of these in 1993.
The price for these used is NUTZ.
$150 to $499
That said, I'm glad I bought it. I've cut a million things over the years, and have probably cut through 25 to 40' of 1/4 inch aluminum sheet. Bearing are still good. I've replaced the brushes once.
It's an 8 1/4...... I did a little grinding under the deck and a 8 1/2" blade fits it now.
Switching to an 8 1/4" would probably be fine if you don't rip 2x4's.
I've never needed more than this.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/3560421649...insqdrfrm2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[C.J.]

I bought the same one of these in 1993.
The price for these used is NUTZ.
$150 to $499
That said, I'm glad I bought it. I've cut a million things over the years, and have probably cut through 25 to 40' of 1/4 inch aluminum sheet. Bearing are still good. I've replaced the brushes once.
It's an 8 1/4...... I did a little grinding under the deck and a 8 1/2" blade fits it now.
Switching to an 8 1/4" would probably be fine if you don't rip 2x4's.
I've never needed more than this.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/3560421649...insqdrfrm2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I started with a $99 delta chop saw and a $99 delta table saw. Worked great for doing flooring. Don’t remember how that saw died but it musta because my next saw was a used Craftsman that I bought for $50 from a friend. It worked great until I ripped a 2x4 and it never made another cut after that . I was in the middle of building my deck so I had to bite the bullet and go buy a new one right then and there. That’s when I went to HD and choked on dropping $350 on a Dewalt job site saw.

That was maybe 15+ years ago that I bought my Dewalt. Still have it and it’s still going strong. The new Dewalt I picked up was $399. Only $50 more for a similar saw 15 years later?? Yeah one is 10” and the other is 8.25” but what are you ripping with a job site saw that that makes that much of a difference anyway. Plus my new saw came with a riving knife.

I think the compact SawStop is $900 and you’ll need a stand for it. So now we’re talking $1200 minimum for a compact saw that’s only going to ever be so accurate because it’s a compact saw. Then you gotta think about every time that thing pops of you can see two crisp hundred dollar bills floating away to the heavens. Now your saw is down until you replace the blade and cartridge so you better have a spare blade and cartridge on hand. Now you’re up to $1500… for a compact job site saw. Even though it has the ‘technology’, I can’t bring myself to dump that much money for one. That’s like buying a Kapex and I don’t have one of them either.

 

[DarisMulkin]

I got to many saws for a hobbist. 2 table saws, 3 radial arm[use one], 12" slide saw which I love and got for $200 when Sears was closing up, plus numerous jig saws and circular saws. The 2 table saws are set up at each end of my 8' work table which one is for rough cutting and the other for fine cutting, Oh and one track saw which is the cats ass.

 

[C.J.]

Ordered some zero clearance inserts for my saw. Anybody else use them?

 

[highup]

I started with a $99 delta chop saw and a $99 delta table saw. Worked great for doing flooring. Don’t remember how that saw died but it musta because my next saw was a used Craftsman that I bought for $50 from a friend. It worked great until I ripped a 2x4 and it never made another cut after that . I was in the middle of building my deck so I had to bite the bullet and go buy a new one right then and there. That’s when I went to HD and choked on dropping $350 on a Dewalt job site saw.

That was maybe 15+ years ago that I bought my Dewalt. Still have it and it’s still going strong. The new Dewalt I picked up was $399. Only $50 more for a similar saw 15 years later?? Yeah one is 10” and the other is 8.25” but what are you ripping with a job site saw that that makes that much of a difference anyway. Plus my new saw came with a riving knife.

I think the compact SawStop is $900 and you’ll need a stand for it. So now we’re talking $1200 minimum for a compact saw that’s only going to ever be so accurate because it’s a compact saw. Then you gotta think about every time that thing pops of you can see two crisp hundred dollar bills floating away to the heavens. Now your saw is down until you replace the blade and cartridge so you better have a spare blade and cartridge on hand. Now you’re up to $1500… for a compact job site saw. Even though it has the ‘technology’, I can’t bring myself to dump that much money for one. That’s like buying a Kapex and I don’t have one of them either.

Never heard of the Kapex so I looked it up.
If you buy the whole shebang, there's an app for it. You have to manually unlock and open the rear doors of your van, but you open the app on your phone, press setup and the saw will roll into the garage, raise itself to preset working height, unfold the extensions and make you a cup of coffee.
Expensive, but think of the time it saves you.

 

[highup]

Ordered some zero clearance inserts for my saw. Anybody else use them?

My Makita has a thin, stamped aluminum insert that screws in place. I doubt they ever made a zero clearance for it because of it's design.
I made a zero clearance 3/4" plywood table top and a fence that lays on my saw' table. Two countersunk machine screws hold it in place. I made it many years ago to rip thin strips for splines on wood and laminate floors. Initially, it was a one time use creation to make a custom 12 foot long full floating stair nose on a stranded Bamboo floor that failed.
I may have put photos here. I'll have to check
It's been stored indoors...... Makes me wonder if its still flat and functional. The fence lock was kind of a pain to design. It takes a few attempts to get the thickness as exact as you need it..... but it worked.
I never named that tool.
Ahhh, the FencerDown model 2010-1

 

[highup]

Here ya go CJ. Here's the job I made that zero kerf table top for. I don't recall if I made the spline a single spline or a double, finger joint type spline.
When my PC was working, I did a lot of freehand sketches and drawings to make my ideas easier to understand
.....2015 it was.
Knowing the date, I'll find the zero clearance top..... I know I put pictures of that here too
https://www.flooringforum.com/threads/floating-a-flush-mount-stairnose.3493/