I had a set of expensive ones. Daughter's ex stole them. Told him if I ever saw him again, I would shoot him.
Duo fast tacker problem
- Thread starter Don Monfils
- Start date
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If that is truly your intent best not to advertise.
These were 74 bucks or something like that. The quality actually looks pretty good...... on the second set.
My entire truck weighs less than 4,000 lb but I like the height of these better than the wimpy looking 1 1/2 ton jack's that I bought for $15 from Habitat. They look almost brand new and I wouldn't mind using them for the back of my truck but I wanted something better to put under the frame when lifting the front.
With a water pistol
ginnyross57
New Member
Hi Chuck,Don,
That schematic is not correct for the current version of the tacker. Several of the trigger assembly parts are not correct on that schematic. Even if you have that version of the tool you'll have to convert parts. I've attached the current schematic.
Most likely you lost either the trigger actuating spring or the trigger actuator button itself when the parts fell out.
So between the plastic orange trigger (GO-215-9) and the actual internal trigger switch (GO-115-B1)inside the tool, there is an outer spring for tension (GO-115-8), a very tiny inner spring (GO-115-6A) sits inside of that spring, and goes up into the tool to act as a cushion between the internal switch and the trigger actuator button (GO-115-10). The trigger actuator button looks like a little miniature mushroom made out of metal. The stem of that "mushroom" goes up inside the outer spring and rests against the tiny inner spring and when the trigger is pulled it pushes up and compresses the inner spring enough to push the internal switch trigger causing the tool to fire.
I'm betting you lost that inner spring (GO-115-6A) when things let go. It's a common problem. The actuator button stem isn't long enough to compress the inner switch trigger without that spring being in place, that's why it isn't firing.
I wish you were closer. I'd could fix it for you in about 2 minutes. But hope this helps. I've fixed a whole lot of these over the years.
FYI, I have parts. We're a distributor for Duofast.
I am new to the forum and looking assistance with my Duo-Fast EIC 3118 stapler. I used it for 6 years doing upholstery and it was a power horse! I pulled it out recently to staple some lightweight fabric to a pine stretcher frame and after a bit it jammed / quit stapling. I thought maybe it was a switch issue like Don had, but instead I found that the front nose casting is broken at one of the two bolt holes. I think the nose is loose and allows the drive blade to move and get caught inside the stapler. My problem is I would consider buying a new nose kit (part #1015118 or XK-1166) but I can't find it in stock anywhere. Do you know where I might be able to find that replacement part? I would hate to have to replace the stapler for want of a single part!. Thanks much! Ginny
Unfortunately, they stopped making that tool about 3 years ago. Duofast sold the "flooring" tools to a company called Southern Carlson. The only electric stapler they are continuing to manufacture is the ENC 5418 narrow crown stapler that is primarily used by carpet installers. The EWC (wide crown) and EIC (Intermediate crown) variations for upholstery were discontinued. Any parts that are available would be the "last of their kind". There are a few parts that cross over between the ENC and the others but not the main head casting. The EWC and EIC used a different coil pack (winding inside the casting that moves the driver blade when the trigger is pulled) and the EWC / EIC was machined to a different size as a result. Southern Carlson is still selling the staples, but the tools are long since out of stock. You might be able to possibly find a non-working "donor" model on somewhere like ebay and steal the casting from it.
Sorry, wish I had a better answer. We never really did much with the EWC or EIC. I'd repair one occasionally, but that was about the extent of it. Being a flooring distributor, we were more in tune with the ENC 5418. In all honesty, I don't know if there is another manufacturer filling in the void left behind duofast's exit for upholstery work or not. A few of the customers we dealt with for those were folks that do pool tables (applying the felt). You might make a few calls and see if they would share what they have gone to or if they might have a bone pile with a used casting you could buy for cheap. There also may be a pneumatic version still available through another tool manufacturer as well. Duofast made pneumatic versions of these staplers for larger upholstering operations. But there again, they discontinued many of their fine wire pneumatics even before selling off the flooring stuff, so I don't think they still offer anything. There used to be a Swedish (I think) company called Joseph Killberg who made some fine wire staplers, primarily pneumatic but I don't know if they are still around or not.
All the best!
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ginnyross57
New Member
Thanks Chuck - much appreciated! If the staples are going by as well, I think it's time to get a new stapler and stop trying to fix the old!
Your very welcome for the information.
Did some google searches on wide crown upholstering staplers and for the most part it looks like the majority have gone to pneumatic. However, it looks like Makita offers an 18v electric that shoots the T-50 series staple. That might be the best possible replacement for an electric.
Here's a link to the tool:
https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XTS01Z
I've seen some eic 3118 staplers looking on a Google search and some still say in stock.
Is #31 a 22 gauge?
A bit spendy.
Some say eic 3118A. What's the A mean.
Is #31 a 22 gauge?
A bit spendy.
Some say eic 3118A. What's the A mean.
Last edited:
Yes, 22 gauge. The A was the revision to the 3118 that corrected the defective housing the ginnyross57 had. The original castings had an "ear" on either side of the bottom of the casting where the nose attached to the housing on either side. This made the base of the casting very thin. Over time the bottom of the housing would crack at this weak point. The A modified this and made the casting much thicker at the bottom.I've seen some eic 3118 staplers looking on a Google search and some still say in stock.
Is #31 a 22 gauge?
A bit spendy.
Some say eic 3118A. What's the A mean.
Yeah, they were always a bit higher than the carpet tackers. Mainly due to a much smaller audience and lower sales, plus the additional costs of a different driver blade, nosing, and coil pack and a bit of additional machining to accommodate the different coil.
I had both a EIC and an EWC in stock up until fairly recently. I think they sat in inventory for about 4 years. They just don't move real fast. So many of the upholstering folks have moved to pneumatic as they just last longer. Smaller workrooms and folks that need portability, like pool table folks were the main users of the electrics.
Spring went in the mail today sir!
Just so you know, I can tell by the inner trigger housing that you have the current model of the tool.
When you put that back together, take some good tape - either duct tape or black electrical tape and put a small piece over each of the holes on the housing where the pin sits so that won't slide out on you again. That's one of the dumbest things they did on the newest model. Those pin holes in the housing waddle out and then the pin will keep slipping out on you. They use to use an C-clip to hold that in, then they used rubber O-rings then they just went to where the hole is machined so that it's just held in by friction. Got to make everything cheaper.
Some other tips for you guys on these tackers:
I've literally fixed hundreds (probably more like thousands) of these tackers over the years and These tips will prevent about 90% of the repairs we see regularly. The parts are getting more expensive and I'd rather see you keep your hard earned money! You guys all work too hard for it. Especially if you're doing carpet. That stuff will beat the snot out of you.
- Never ever use WD-40 anywhere on this tool.
- There is no need for lubrication on this tool.
- It's flammable and can start a fire from the electrical current
- It attracts and holds carpet fiber and dirt and will cause fibers to get caught inside the tool and can cause the main drive spring to break and the staple feed spring to get bound and break.
- If the tool is binding, 99% of the time it's because the fasteners that hold the nosing to the main housing of the tool are loose and the nose is moving out of position causing the blade to bind when the tool fires. Tighten the bolts and leave the lubricant for your carpet tubes.
- The other 1% of the time the tool will bind is because there's a small plate that sits between the nosing and the staple feed assembly. This plate will sometimes crack and cause the driver blade to catch and bind. If the bolts are tight then that's the next thing to check.
- Pay attention to your chord and don't:
- Wrap it around the tool - it breaks the wires inside the chord.
- Fold it the way it was when you bought the tool new.
- Cut the neutral on the chord - Buy an adaptor for .25 and don't ruin a $40.00 chord.
- Without that neutral if the tool takes a jolt it's going to fry the circuit board in the tool ($50.00 to $60.00 repair).
- Use the tool to jerk the chord out of the outlet.
- It breaks the wires internally and / or pulls the ends out of the circuit board in the tool causing arcing / shorts or not fire.
- It's a good idea to check the two bolts that hold the nosing to the main housing as well as the one that hold the nosing and the staple assembly together every couple of uses. Keep a torx head /or allen wrench in your box for this.
On your hammer staplers, don't use WD-40 either. If you have to use something use something like TFL-50 Dry lubricant. It works good on your carpet tubes too and you don't have to worry about it staining light colored carpets.
- Cut the neutral on the chord - Buy an adaptor for .25 and don't ruin a $40.00 chord.
- ????? ADAPTOR for neutral? Please can you show me the adaptor? My Duo fast just stopped, i think cord is the problem I used to wrap it around the gun, my bad. Is there any coil cord to use with Duo Fast? Thx
Spring went in the mail today sir!
Just so you know, I can tell by the inner trigger housing that you have the current model of the tool.
When you put that back together, take some good tape - either duct tape or black electrical tape and put a small piece over each of the holes on the housing where the pin sits so that won't slide out on you again. That's one of the dumbest things they did on the newest model. Those pin holes in the housing waddle out and then the pin will keep slipping out on you. They use to use an C-clip to hold that in, then they used rubber O-rings then they just went to where the hole is machined so that it's just held in by friction. Got to make everything cheaper.
Some other tips for you guys on these tackers:
I've literally fixed hundreds (probably more like thousands) of these tackers over the years and These tips will prevent about 90% of the repairs we see regularly. The parts are getting more expensive and I'd rather see you keep your hard earned money! You guys all work too hard for it. Especially if you're doing carpet. That stuff will beat the snot out of you.
- Never ever use WD-40 anywhere on this tool.
- There is no need for lubrication on this tool.
- It's flammable and can start a fire from the electrical current
- It attracts and holds carpet fiber and dirt and will cause fibers to get caught inside the tool and can cause the main drive spring to break and the staple feed spring to get bound and break.
- If the tool is binding, 99% of the time it's because the fasteners that hold the nosing to the main housing of the tool are loose and the nose is moving out of position causing the blade to bind when the tool fires. Tighten the bolts and leave the lubricant for your carpet tubes.
- The other 1% of the time the tool will bind is because there's a small plate that sits between the nosing and the staple feed assembly. This plate will sometimes crack and cause the driver blade to catch and bind. If the bolts are tight then that's the next thing to check.
- Pay attention to your chord and don't:
- Wrap it around the tool - it breaks the wires inside the chord.
- Fold it the way it was when you bought the tool new.
- Cut the neutral on the chord - Buy an adaptor for .25 and don't ruin a $40.00 chord.
- Without that neutral if the tool takes a jolt it's going to fry the circuit board in the tool ($50.00 to $60.00 repair).
- Use the tool to jerk the chord out of the outlet.
- It breaks the wires internally and / or pulls the ends out of the circuit board in the tool causing arcing / shorts or not fire.
- It's a good idea to check the two bolts that hold the nosing to the main housing as well as the one that hold the nosing and the staple assembly together every couple of uses. Keep a torx head /or allen wrench in your box for this.
On your hammer staplers, don't use WD-40 either. If you have to use something use something like TFL-50 Dry lubricant. It works good on your carpet tubes too and you don't have to worry about it staining light colored carpets.
- Cut the neutral on the chord - Buy an adaptor for .25 and don't ruin a $40.00 chord.
- Educate me Don, i use to wrap the cord around the gun and stopped working yesterday just about to start stairs, so excuse my ignorance but. "Cut the Neutral, buy and adaptor " . Where do I cut the neutral, what adaptor? Any picture of something like that done to understand how to proceed? Thx
Those are the DON'Ts...
what I'm saying there is DO NOT cut the neutral off the cord. Many installers do this because they work in older homes without gfi (3 prong) sockets. Many older homes have just two prong sockets, at least here in the U.S. - The cord has 3 prongs - one is hot, one is ground, and one is the neutral wire. They cut off the neutral wire so they can plug the tool into a two prong socket instead of buying a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter. Then if there is a surge or a short in can damage the electronics in the tool. Those cords cost about $40.00 to replace, when they could have just bought a cheap adapter (the one below is $1.00).
So, in summary, I'm saying DO NOT DO THIS, instead of cutting the 3rd prong off the chord, plug it into an adapter like this:
If you're tool stopped working from the cord being wrapped, what has happened is you've broken the wires inside the cord. This can cause the tool to work intermittently or not at all and is dangerous to plug it in. The cord should be replaced ASAP with the proper cord for the tool. There is only one cord available for the electric tacker.
Sorry, but you'll need to take it to a nearby Duofast dealer and have it repaired.
I’ve had many a ground prong break off but I don’t believe I’ve ever intentionally broken one off.
Thanks, probably is a bad idea but i took the risk of buying a $90 gun to finish 2 stairscases I couldn't even sart, but also borrowed a Duo Fast just in case this gun can't handle (pic attached), this new gun will have 32 stairs and 2 landings to show me what is made of. Thx Don.
Attachments
I’ve got a couple original Duo-Fast tackers . I’ve replaced the cords on them and irons Robert’s and Crain irons several times . . . and yes, I am a prong breaking son of a gun when I’m deep in the hills of some job somewhere and I don’t have the time or means to do it differently- because I’d rather destroy a 25’ extension cord or similar than break a prong but I admit I’ve done it to more than a carpet iron . It’s a safety issue you better not get caught in the wrong place doing it that’s for sure no jail time but you’ll be looking for a job lol 
(the adapters don’t complete the grounding circuit )
(the adapters don’t complete the grounding circuit )
I still have 2 Duofast and one Crain. They look identical except for color.
dhillmemphis
New Member
Hey Chuck, i know this is an old post but was wondering if you can still get parts for the enc. I have a stapler that i bought about 2 years ago and now it will not shoot a staple if i hold the gun upside down to staple under the nose of the step but staples fine when shooting downward. Any ideas? i have all the springs in the trigger and the spring and parts in the head look fine. Thanks for any help you can offer.Don,
That schematic is not correct for the current version of the tacker. Several of the trigger assembly parts are not correct on that schematic. Even if you have that version of the tool you'll have to convert parts. I've attached the current schematic.
Most likely you lost either the trigger actuating spring or the trigger actuator button itself when the parts fell out.
So between the plastic orange trigger (GO-215-9) and the actual internal trigger switch (GO-115-B1)inside the tool, there is an outer spring for tension (GO-115-8), a very tiny inner spring (GO-115-6A) sits inside of that spring, and goes up into the tool to act as a cushion between the internal switch and the trigger actuator button (GO-115-10). The trigger actuator button looks like a little miniature mushroom made out of metal. The stem of that "mushroom" goes up inside the outer spring and rests against the tiny inner spring and when the trigger is pulled it pushes up and compresses the inner spring enough to push the internal switch trigger causing the tool to fire.
I'm betting you lost that inner spring (GO-115-6A) when things let go. It's a common problem. The actuator button stem isn't long enough to compress the inner switch trigger without that spring being in place, that's why it isn't firing.
I wish you were closer. I'd could fix it for you in about 2 minutes. But hope this helps. I've fixed a whole lot of these over the years.
FYI, I have parts. We're a distributor for Duofast.
Most likely broken wire in the chord. Parts are still current and available for the ENC. Traxx tools just assumed national distribution for Duofast. Anyone who has access to Traxx can order parts. Chords are about $50.
Are they still winding the cord wires counterclockwise so that when a right handed person coils the cord up at the end of the day, it eventually turns into a cord resembling a 1960's telephone cord? Mine is terrible and I'm thinking of making up my own cord.
