Hardwood/Tile Issue when remodeling. HELP

[Jon]

If you decide to try that method, start in the center of the room and hang on tight.
Those machines are powerful, but not high RPM, and you use the handle to steer the machine to and fro. Takes a bit of finesse to make them go where you want them to go, and not make a hole in the wall when it grabs unexpectedly.

Seen that happen
Its kinda funny watching someone who has never used one
Hanging on tight is probably not the way to go
Get the balance just touching lightly then turn on
Soon as you put a little weight on the handle Off she goes
Have someone ready to pull the lead from the wall plug

 

[Brian9955]

Lol in that case, it may be better to use the smaller version... The angle grinder and dimabrush instead of the larger machine. Easier to control, especially since I only need to do a 12x12 room.

 

[highup]

Seen that happen
Its kinda funny watching someone who has never used one
Hanging on tight is probably not the way to go
Get the balance just touching lightly then turn on
Soon as you put a little weight on the handle Off she goes
Have someone ready to pull the lead from the wall plug

I forgot about that............... so have 2 extra people with you. One to be ready to pull the plug and another to do the video.

 

[highup]

The floor machine turns about 175 RPM, the grinder is 11,000 to 12,000 RPM.... another thing to consider.

 

[Brian9955]

The floor machine turns about 175 RPM, the grinder is 11,000 to 12,000 RPM.... another thing to consider.

Would that be a concern? I suppose as long as I'm careful I should be fine. Sorry for so many questions.

 

[Nick]

If you lift up easy on the handle it will go right , down will go left ..
Let the machine do the work . I use to use one hand , and smoke with the other .

 

[highup]

Would that be a concern? I suppose as long as I'm careful I should be fine. Sorry for so many questions.

If you stop asking so many questions, you will never become floor ninja.
Ask and you will receive.

 

[Jon]

If you lift up easy on the handle it will go right , down will go left ..
Let the machine do the work . I use to use one hand , and smoke with the other .

Thats how I used to show someone when they are going to use the machine for the first time with one finger holding the machine
Let them try then the grab the handle comes in and off she goes

 

[Brian9955]

After some trial and error...I think that I've figured out the angle grinder with the diamabrush. I started working on an area that will be covered up by cabinets yesterday and stopped after gouging the wood. Highup gave some good advice, which was to hold the angle grinder almost to a point that I am picking up (hovering) the machine. I tried that around the same area and it's working well. Before I do anymore work, I'll have someone chaperone me, lol. Here's a pic. Again, it's in an area that will be covered up, so don't mind the gouge.

 

[highup]

One more thing. You don't need to try to get the wood looking super nice like you are actually trying to do the wood floor guys job. I"m sure it can be pretty tempting to be too thorough and make the wood look kinda pretty because it's fun.
Just barely remove the felt and adhesive to the point where it's barely removed, and even leave a tad for him to remove. If you try to remove 101% of it, you will actually be removing some wood........ that's the floor guys job.
Trying to get it 100% clean might mean some minor gouging of the floor. The more gouging, then it will create more work the wood floor guy has to do to. ....meaning he will have to sand the floor to the depth of any gouges you create. Barely remove the residue and let him sand the wood.
I bet the razor scraper that I mentioned would work pretty well on those black and green spots. Probably better than the grinder wheel.

 

[Brian9955]

One more thing. You don't need to try to get the wood looking super nice like you are actually trying to do the wood floor guys job. I"m sure it can be pretty tempting to be too thorough and make the wood look kinda pretty because it's fun.
Just barely remove the felt and adhesive to the point where it's barely removed, and even leave a tad for him to remove. If you try to remove 101% of it, you will actually be removing some wood........ that's the floor guys job.

Trying to get it 100% clean might mean some minor gouging of the floor. The more gouging, then it will create more work the wood floor guy has to do to. ....meaning he will have to sand the floor to the depth of any gouges you create. Barely remove the residue and let him sand the wood.
I bet the razor scraper that I mentioned would work pretty well on those black and green spots. Probably better than the grinder wheel.

I was trying to only remove the tar/mastic but as soon as I did, that's what was under the tar. I was being very careful. I suppose i can try doing it lighter. The floor guy said it all had to be removed cause the mastic would ruin their machine.

I'll send the floor guy a message with the pic to see what he says. I haven't done anything more than what's in the picture.

 

[Nick]

It won't ruin his machine . It will clod his sandpaper though after a ft or so.

Unless he uses a 3 1/2 open cut paper .. Still better to remove it for him..

 

[Brian9955]

@Nick that makes sense...perhaps I should try some other options first before continuing with the grinder though.

 

[Brian9955]

@Nick By the way, what to tool did you use after pouring the hot water?

 

[Nick]

Pouring hot water on what Brian. The Tech term for wood is Sponge .

Wood don't like water .. and what you are removing is not water proof .

You can try some Acetone , with steel wool around the edges ..

That is what we used to remove finish around the ball returns ..

 

[Brian9955]

@nick whoops, someone mentioned somewhere that they used hot water to remove the mastic. I thought It was you. Sorry about that. What you're saying does make sense.

I'll try to use the acetone and see what happens.

 

[highup]

I'm still thinking a razor scraper like this one.... Crain #360 and like I mentioned. I use the longer and thicker 376 blades. I cut them in half with my Dremel tool using a metal cutoff wheel. 3 blades are now 6 blades.

http://www.craintools.com/tear-out/scrapers

 

[highup]

Pouring hot water on what Brian. The Tech term for wood is Sponge .

Wood don't like water .. and what you are removing is not water proof .

You can try some Acetone , with steel wool around the edges ..

That is what we used to remove finish around the ball returns ..

I think Nick is saying to use that for the parts of the residue that a scraper won't remove.

Ever use that Goo Gone stuff Nick?
...either way, you need to be careful with flammable stuff around electrical stuff and pilot lights. Keep some doors open.

 

[highup]

Pouring hot water on what Brian. The Tech term for wood is Sponge .

Wood don't like water .. and what you are removing is not water proof .

You can try some Acetone , with steel wool around the edges ..

That is what we used to remove finish around the ball returns ..

Hey Nick, mentioning water got me thinkin........... Brian's worried about the nail holes. If it's gonna be a couple weeks before he can get his floor refinished, would it help to squirt some water on those nail holes to close them up a little bit? Like with a spray bottle set to the 'stream' setting? Or maybe water and a hot iron to steam them?

 

[Nick]

NO WATER .. Bang them in with a nail punch. When they sand the floor they will fill in ..