How do you finish stairs with one open end if you want to install hardwood floor on the stairs ?

[Tile Tom]

Have you looked at pre made stair caps? I do them all the time. They come with returns already on the ends if you order them that way. Also have matching risers.
Their made specifically for going over existing stairs. You can either cut the nose off ( not recommended if tread goes into stringer) or build out the riser flush with the nose with plywood. I usually build out with plywood.

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

Are you referring to something like these
https://www.lowes.ca/product/stair-...hed-oak-wood-stair-tread-and-riser-kit-805051

 

[C.J.]

Cap-A-Treads from HD look better than those IMO.

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

Nothing like that here in Canada
This is all we have
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/ca...work/stair-parts/stair-treads-and-risers.html

 

[C.J.]

That square nose stuff doesn’t look right to me. At least the Cap-A-Treads have a rounded bullnose. They were always special order here so I imagine it will be the same there.

One thing to keep in mind is that the Cap-A-Treads come in two different thicknesses (size of the bullnose). One for thinner stair treads and one for 2x stair treads. You can get away with the thicker treads (2x) on a thinner stair tread but not vice versa.

Maybe Lowes has a similar product but square nose just doesn’t look right.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cap-A-T...Overlay-for-Stairs-1-in-T-016073691/205055533

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

I have one open end so rounded is more difficult to finish at that end

 

[C.J.]

You can order the treads with either a right or a left return. It’s bullnose as well. You may have to cut that part of nosing off from your stair tread because I believe the return is flat on the back side.

 

[Tile Tom]

I'll get the info on the ones we use when I get to the shop.

 

[Tile Tom]

The ones I use are made by pennwood. Their solid wood and the tread is 1/2" thick.
They really look great when properly installed.
The second pic shows how they look in a setting like yours. Their not the same as the pennwood but the profile is exactly the same. Their just made from MDF with a micro layer wood veneer. The pennwood one's are definitely better quality.

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

The top step of the three stairs section will get raised 3/4" because of the hardwood
That is forcing me to add 3/4" of hardwood floor to each of the steps
adding what you said will not match that

 

[JPfloor]

The top step of the three stairs section will get raised 3/4" because of the hardwood
That is forcing me to add 3/4" of hardwood floor to each of the steps
adding what you said will not match that

How about just refinishing everything including the upper landing? If the landing must be replaced can’t you remove the existing floor before installing the new?

 

[C.J.]

The top step of the three stairs section will get raised 3/4" because of the hardwood
That is forcing me to add 3/4" of hardwood floor to each of the steps
adding what you said will not match that

You’re installing over top of your existing hardwood, right. Long thread and I don’t wanna read the whole thing again. Lol. Alright, that raises your finished floor height by 1/2”. If you’re capping the stairs that will also raise them so you’ll be fine at the top step but will be higher at the bottom step. Most codes I’ve seen allow for up to 3/8” variation between any one step and the next. You’re only 1/8” past tolerance and whose inspecting, nobody. So now you know you’ll be higher somewhere, you want that to be the top step or the bottom step.

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

to recap
I am removing the existing floor (3/8" old hardwood)
I will be left with diagonal boards
On top of that I asked for 3/8" plywood to insulate and air tight the basement and to add more support to the staples/nails that would be used to install the floor
On top of the plywood I will have 3/4" engineered hardwood

That will raise the floor at the top of the stairs with 3/4"
I will dress those three steps in the same engineered hardwood
The bottom step is exactly 3/4" shorter that the others so that will work very well for me

I can not refinish the old hardwood and I do not want to (that ship has sailed I already ordered 10K of engineered hardwood)
I do not think it is worth refinishing the rails and the posts I am looking for a more modern look

Something like this

 

[Tile Tom]

Sounds like fun. Share some pics of the finished results.

 

[JPfloor]

Ahhhhh…. I see says the blind man, as he picked up his hammer and saw.

Everything now makes perfect sense. Sounds like you have your questions answered. Have fun!

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

Not even close. The project will hit the drawing board soon so there will be more questions
Not sure if you guys want to hear them -they are borderline woodworking and flooring. Ex the best way to replace the strips that support the bottom posts -the two posts that sit on the landing area between the two set of stairs

 

[C.J.]

What are you doing for stair nose at your top step? You got something matching for your hardwood? If so you just need to get more. Rip out those strips of wood and redo them with new stair nose and your new flooring to fill in if the stair nose doesn’t reach to the tile. Now you have matching flooring and a clean slate for your new posts and spindles to go into.

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

I ordered matching bullnose from the hardwood manufacturer for all those three steps to the right and the top of the stairs you are asking about

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

Ok this is what is going to be. Notice some slight changes:
-the posts are all aligned
-the longer rail segments that are parallel with the line of posts will be attached to the posts and not as depicted, using smaller pieces of rail.
-there is no posts on the steps so this should make it more stable (there is more wood to attach to under the new positions of each post; besides this each step will get a new coat of hardwood so it won't be that easy to attach the post on the steps anymore

The existing design, for comparison