How many ways to end carpet atop a stairway?

Flooring Forum

Help Support Flooring Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

highup

Will work for food
Supporting Member
Pro
Joined
Mar 6, 2011
Messages
18,887
Location
,
Stairway is a fat Berber that's been in for 20 years. There is a 4 by 4 1/2 foot landing at the top of the stairway witch leads into the master bedroom hallway.
The upstairs has a nice thick cut pile carpet going in....... so how many options are there other than rolling the cut pile carpet over the landing and down onto the riser. ?
I think it would look strange sewing the woven Berber onto the cut pile at the top of the landing and riser... That would require sewing the cut pile to the woven material a half to three quarters of an inch over and onto the riser............ so the cut pile would still show a lot when viewing from the bottom of the stairway. That's what we are trying to minimize or eliminate.

Is it unorthodox to staple the Berber to the riser, then simply turn and tack the top edge of the cut pile at the top edge of the landing's nose? If I did that, I'm not sure how the carpet will wear over time. I'm also pondering the idea of modifying a 3/4" wood floor nose transition to separate the two carpet edges. From below, all you'd see then, is the wood edge at the top.

Just trying to make it look good from the bottom of the stairway. The carpet colors are gray and gold, so it's not like they are going to blend nicely if they are connected.
 
Last edited:
Most times I've stopped the stair carpet under the nose of the landing. Can't do landing and make the transition at BR doors?

Daris
There's no nose. There is a 3/4 round molding on the nose of the step, and the plywood riser is angled back at an angle for a waterfall profile. I can probably remove the 3/4 round piece and replace it with a pre-finished hardwood stair nose edging. if I can find a suitable color. The local shop has a lot of misc transition edges in stock.
The stair railing is dark, and all the wood trim in the house is linen white including the skirt boards on the stairway.

Stair profile.JPG
 
I agree with you about ending at the doorway so there is no transition change on the landing edge. The door at the top of the stairs leads into a 7 by 9 "hallway" of sorts, between the bedroom door and the bathroom door. The door at the top of the stairway is probably never closed, so I think she want's the small landing at that doorway to look the same as viewed from the upstairs............ can't have it both ways tho.
 
You could also sew the riser piece on the landing so it is just on top of the step-like half on half off. I've done that also a few times. But like you say shit in one hand and wish in the other and see which one fills up first.

Daris
 
I never thought of sewing on the top side............. I'm gonna remember that one.
I found a 3/4 inch thick hickory bull nose that was 4" wide that worked out great. I had to remove the riser and cut the landing's underlayment back one inch to make it work. The landing edge was made too wide, making the top stair's tread almost an inch narrower than the rest of the steps. Removing the 3/4 round piece and also the 3/4 inch riser made it work out really well.
The bull nose I found was pretty dark brown, as was the railing and the vaulted ceiling timbers, so it actually helped tie the 'ensemble' together with one added element. Looks great from the lower hallway, which most people will see. I think that was most important. From the top side, the wide pre-finished looked good because it was so bold and wide.
Customer apologized for not having time to invite me to dinner tonight, as they were busy getting ready for family and guests arriving tomorrow afternoon. ............what a freekin' let down. :eek:
:D :D
 
Last edited:
I never thought of sewing on the top side............. I'm gonna remember that one.
I found a 3/4 inch thick hickory bull nose that was 4" wide that worked out great. I had to remove the riser and cut the landing's underlayment back one inch to make it work. The landing edge was made too wide, making the top stair's tread almost an inch narrower than the rest of the steps. Removing the 3/4 round piece and also the 3/4 inch riser made it work out really well.
The bull nose I found was pretty dark brown, as was the railing and the vaulted ceiling timbers, so it actually helped tie the 'ensemble' together with one added element. Looks great from the lower hallway, which most people will see. I think that was most important. From the top side, the wide pre-finished looked good because it was so bold and wide.
Customer apologized for not having time to invite me to dinner tonight, as they were busy getting ready for family and guests arriving tomorrow afternoon. ............what a freekin' let down. :eek:
:D :D

So you didn't get paid ? :D
 

Latest posts

Back
Top