Smack2k
Member
we want to put a tile floor in. I know the details on asbestos, I just want to know how that type of flooring is removed, with what tools?
Identify flooring help
- Thread starter Smack2k
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We have been talking different things again
I blew the photo up and I think you are talking you are talking the white mark at the foot of the cove whereas I was talking about the trim on top of the coved vinyl on the wall
I think your lino could be Marmo and you could try rubbing Linseed Oil into that white bit of Marmo the Linseed Oil dries out over the years. Used to be able to buy wax type polish which could bring the colour back
If your floor is Marmo the colour goes all the way through to the backing unlike most domestic type vinyls these days
Smack2k
Member
Im not sure I understand. I want to remove the flooring, how does bringing the color back help there?
Also, for asbestos issues, would I need to send a piece of it away to be checked?
Also, for asbestos issues, would I need to send a piece of it away to be checked?
This basically depends on where you live. You need to check local regulations to find out if you can even remove it yourself. I if you are allowed to remove it yourself it still must be disposed of properly and that's a separate issue. Do a Google search and type in:
do it yourself (DIY) asbestos removal, then type in your state. See what comes up.
The EPA considers asbestos equivalent to nuclear waste.
do it yourself (DIY) asbestos removal, then type in your state. See what comes up.
The EPA considers asbestos equivalent to nuclear waste.
Also, once you send a piece for testing, it will be documented who you are and where you live. I once called our state DEQ and inquired if I could remove a small amount of asbestos tile. The needed the location, the owners and my name before they would answer my question.
It might not even contain asbestos if it's not original to the home. If it's 20 years old, it doesn't have asbestos in it.
It might not even contain asbestos if it's not original to the home. If it's 20 years old, it doesn't have asbestos in it.
My idea was to use that method to try and identity if your flooring was a Marmo type product or a plastic type flooring as Marmo is a natural product
Smack2k
Member
Hello all,
Would it be possible if I was to cut the current floor before it starts to curve up the wall and then tile over it? The floor is perfectly level from all tests / checks I have done. Would that be doable?
I dont really feel like giving all my info to get it checked....that is crazy. I dont know the age of it to be honest.
The trim on the curved vinyl is painted on white....I took a close look at it and scraped some off.....its blue like the floor underneath
Would it be possible if I was to cut the current floor before it starts to curve up the wall and then tile over it? The floor is perfectly level from all tests / checks I have done. Would that be doable?
I dont really feel like giving all my info to get it checked....that is crazy. I dont know the age of it to be honest.
The trim on the curved vinyl is painted on white....I took a close look at it and scraped some off.....its blue like the floor underneath
I don't see why you can't put tile over it, as long as it is stuck down all over. If it has enough support underneath. Go over to the John Bridge forum. They have a formula on there that gives span, type and size of joists required, to keep the floor from flexing.
What makes it curve up the wall is a cove stick, wood shaped like the curve. I would have to be removed.
Like Daris said. There's a small curved molding under that curve. It's wood or plasic. You could just cut all the way through the linoleum, 1 to 1 1/2" out from the wall, then maybe make another cut either in the curve or an inch above the curve and use a chisel a knife and maybe a small pry bar to loosen and remove the linoleum. Them remove the part that runs up the wall. The drywall, at least the paper will probably be damaged a little bit from the removal of the linoleum and from removing the metal edge.
There are ways to remove the metal with less damage depending on how it was installed...... so you will need to plan on either tall baseboards or some drywall repair.
There are ways to remove the metal with less damage depending on how it was installed...... so you will need to plan on either tall baseboards or some drywall repair.
Smack2k
Member
Hello all, we are finally actually going to do the bathroom after a LONG delay!
I wanted to know what is the best tool I could use to cut through the linoleum out from the wall as user highup mentioned above? Its about 1/4 - 3/8" thick linoleum (I peeled back some of to look).
Also, side question (if you dont mind)....are there any tile nippers you can recommend that will cut 3/8" porcelain tile? I keep seeing nippers that are for 1/4" thick tile and didnt know if those would work or not.
Thanks again for all your professional information.....
I wanted to know what is the best tool I could use to cut through the linoleum out from the wall as user highup mentioned above? Its about 1/4 - 3/8" thick linoleum (I peeled back some of to look).
Also, side question (if you dont mind)....are there any tile nippers you can recommend that will cut 3/8" porcelain tile? I keep seeing nippers that are for 1/4" thick tile and didnt know if those would work or not.
Thanks again for all your professional information.....
Smack2k
Member
I wanted to know how to cut it, like what tool could I use to cut it and get through the thickness of the linoleum? And hopefully cut it straight.
That may be but there are laws that cover how it is to be handled and is the HO willing to take the chances.
HO the only way to find out if asbestoes is present is to send in a small sample to a lab. You would also need to send a scraping of the glue. Check your states Environmental agency to find out what and how much a HO can remove without problems and how to dispose of it.
To me the "yellowish" feature strip, the material itself and the coving cap metal tell me it's VERY old linoleum, based on style. Possible some decorator recently wanted to mimic a 1950s style but I don't see them using that Godawful yellowish feature.
That being said you take a SHARP utility knife and cut a square out approx. 1-2" all the way through to the substrate (plywood underlayment or concrete) Mail that off to a testing laboratory. It's going to come back negative but it's foolish not to confirm before renovations.
You NEED to demo all that out with scraping implements of various types. As professionals we have serious demolition equipment and rarely is it needed. Usually the glue/paste has dried, crystallized and lost it's bond so old floors pry/pop right up.
When it's coming up tough we break out a series of scraping/prying tools before finally bursting out the heavy artillary. Any large city will have ALL of those sorts of tools available to rent. Google "flooring demolitions" and THEN Google ADHESIVE REMOVAL because you're really gonna want 100 percent of the old goods out of the way for a nice, fresh start.
https://www.google.com/search?q=lin...3k1j0i512k1j0i7i30k1j0i8i7i30k1.0.l07CpVZssMo
https://www.google.com/search?q=flo...GCWkQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1057&bih=469&dpr=1.25
That being said you take a SHARP utility knife and cut a square out approx. 1-2" all the way through to the substrate (plywood underlayment or concrete) Mail that off to a testing laboratory. It's going to come back negative but it's foolish not to confirm before renovations.
You NEED to demo all that out with scraping implements of various types. As professionals we have serious demolition equipment and rarely is it needed. Usually the glue/paste has dried, crystallized and lost it's bond so old floors pry/pop right up.
When it's coming up tough we break out a series of scraping/prying tools before finally bursting out the heavy artillary. Any large city will have ALL of those sorts of tools available to rent. Google "flooring demolitions" and THEN Google ADHESIVE REMOVAL because you're really gonna want 100 percent of the old goods out of the way for a nice, fresh start.
https://www.google.com/search?q=lin...3k1j0i512k1j0i7i30k1j0i8i7i30k1.0.l07CpVZssMo
https://www.google.com/search?q=flo...GCWkQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1057&bih=469&dpr=1.25
Smack2k
Member
Thank you for the information......that is exactly what I was looking for.....I will get a piece cut out...have a few SHARP utility knives!!!
Any idea how old the floor is? In the 1950s, linoleum was installed many times without adhesive. Over time it will stick to a floor, especially if they did not put newspaper under it, which was a standard way of installation.
Smack2k
Member
I have no clue how old it is to be honest.......I am guessing 60s maybe? Could be 80s, I have not a clue!!!
Linoleum was seriously out of favor, especially your style in the '80s. . When you ask about material composition and expectations for demolition WHEN that material was manufactured and installed is...........EVERYTHING. It's easy to find the original construction date of your home. Depending on whereabouts you live in Pittsburgh it could very well be a much older home construction.
Our home is on the old fire maps, ten years before the deed says it was built. The map shows the layout, so it has to be the same home. This was the farm home when this area was still outside the city limits. Deed says 1910.
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