Moving via cut and paste or copying

[highup]

When I got my film scanner a couple years back, I created a file on my desktop so I could learn how to use it... well, the file soon became "the" file for my photo scans and is about 30 GB. I read it's not good to have files like that on the desktop and that it may slow down the computer. Why is that?

Question #2 I moved the file from the desktop to 'My pictures' by cut and paste. The move was instant.
I also copied the same file to a flash drive for backup and it took quite a while. How come the cut and paste was so fast as opposed to copying it? I figured that the cut and paste would still move the contents the same way.

 

[Nick]

Having 30 gigs of data is going to slow your confuser up ,No mater where it is.
It's still on your drive .

2] The only difference between cut+paste and copy+paste is that copy duplicates the file in a new location and stops, cut duplicates the file then deletes the original. So cut has one more operation which will take a little longer, but not significantly.

One exception is if you move (cut+paste) a file to a different location on the same drive partition, the file doesn't actually have to be copied, it can be left where it is and just the file directory changed so it shows in a different folder. This is much faster than copying the entire file. So moving within the same drive letter, copy+paste takes longer than cut+paste.

 

[highup]

That helps Nick.
Now having relocated my photo file to "my pictures", I have a problem when opening Photoshop to look through my photos. The menu view default is 'thumbnails' Slow as hell because it opens all the images in thumbnails.
That is way to much clutter for my eyes and my purposes.
I want it to be the 'list' view as my default. I only need to see the image labels that I type on to them as I work and modify the images. I may have 4 to 8 of the same images saved as I progressively fine tune them. I already know what the images are, I only want to see the descriptive info that I typed in.
It was in the 'list' form prior to moving the file to 'my pictures' Now it's in the thumbnail view.
Once in the thumbnail view, I can use the menu I can change it to the 'list' view, but the next time I use Photoshop, it has returned to the thumbnail view Grrrrr!

How can I make the menu choice I want stay in the list view?

 

[Nick]

I don't have Photoshop on my confuser anymore Hi. There should be something under File, or edit to lock it .

 

[highup]

I don't have Photoshop on my confuser anymore Hi. There should be something under File, or edit to lock it .

I looked everywhere and nothing. IrfanView stays on lists every time I open the program.
I tried Paint.net Gimp and Photoshop and they all revert back to the thumbnail. Photoshop is an old 6.0 version from the late 1800's
I'm betting it's something to do with the way "my Pictures" location is designed..... people want to see pictures to locate stuff. I use labels and the images are extremely distracting to me.......... not to mention the load time as the thumbnails slowly load up.
I didn't have this issue when this same file was in the desktop.
Maybe I ought to put it in the C drive as just another generic folder instead of in the the pre-made, "my Pictures' folder.

 

[highup]

Well, that cured the problem............. "my Pictures " is designed to show you folders with pictures of what's inside. I cut and pasted the folder on the C/disk and it works just like it used to............... suppose I shoulda pasted it into 'my documents' so it's quicker to locate...........
.....and I suppose that's where it's headed next.

 

[Nick]

Glad to hear it Hi.

It's been a long time since i used 6, and all the other photo software i have .

I have other photo software if you need it .

 

[highup]

I guess the way I do it seems "normal" only to me. I see people scrolling through thousands of images on their phones and have no idea how they find what they want.
When I scan a photo, I may scan it two or three or four ways to see which comes out best using different scanner settings. After that, I may tweak each version with Photoshops color and contrast correction tools and if I have thumbnails, I'd be looking at 10 or 20 tiny thumbnail photos that look the same. The 'list' option is the way I view my changes to see what I have tweaked in an individual image. Scans, especially from Kodachrome slides will not come out with the correct color.
Adding an RGB suffix means I have used the red green and blue histogram to do color corrections, so I may have image 001 as the original scan, then 001.RGB as the second version showing that I have done some color correction. A third version of the image might be labeled 001.RGBNEAT, meaning I have used another program to filter and sharpen the image.
I'm a tweaker without a cause, Nick.

 

[Nick]

We're going to take up a collection and get you some help Hi.

When i did the mugs i used ccs , and sometimes i still had to make adjustments .

Every monitor Will show the photo different then another one .

 

[highup]

Kodachrome is a funky film. It goes blue on all scanners. I can buy a color correction/calibration target for the scanner. It's designed specifically for Kodachrome slide film ....for less than $200
http://www.hutchcolor.com/HCT_buy.htm
Hard to find anyone still making targets, since Kodak doesn't make and nobody can develop Kodachrome film...... upon which those targets were made.

 

[Nick]

Let me check around for you Hi, and see if i can find you a good free one .

 

[highup]

Let me check around for you Hi, and see if i can find you a good free one .

It's not something you can download. It's an actual slide. If you use large format Kodachrome film, you will need a different calibration target than required for a smaller format, like 35mm. It's not just Kodachrome specific, it's Kodachrome size specific. If you used 3 different Kodachrome film sizes, you would need to buy 3 calibration targets.
My machine has a "self calibration" checkbox that that you can tick on.............
I suppose if I had a slide with lots of colors and variations that gets close enough to to corrections that to a real calibration target would display............ Maybe I could just use that slide as my base and use it as my calibration target.
I'll try calibrating the scanner with a test slide and without one, and see if it makes a difference.

Here's a scan done with no corrections and a scan with corrections before and after the scan, ...........plus two before and after close ups. They do sharpen a bit, but the color correction is more important.

 

[Nick]

The best CCS i can find out there Hi is paint.net, next to adobe Photoshop.

Can't you make the corrections after you load it onto your drive ?

They don't look bad .

 

[highup]

I make two basic corrections on the scanner. Many of my slides are slightly on the dark side, or the scanner sees them as such. I may do a backlight correction, which is a scanner function and can't be done post scan There are 4 settings, None, low, med, and high. I prefer to use as little backlighting as possible. Kodachrome had/has a very narrow exposure latitude, so it's hard to brighten up dark areas without blowing out the highlights.
I also use the RG&B sliders on the histogram to make an initial correction so that the scan ends up somewhat corrected to start with. I don't do any 'fancy' corrections with the scanners program. (Photostudio 5.5)
I have paint.net on the computer, but haven't figured it out much of what it can do.
One color correction tool on Photoshop can really help a lot. It's the hue/saturation tool where you can open and control each color channel separately to change brightness and the color intensity.. I haven't looked on Paint.net to see if it has that tool.

 

[Nick]

Photoshop is what i used when i did the mugs Hi.
Thought i sent you a copy of adobe ?

That has so much stuff in it you really need to take a night course on it .

Let me know if you want it , and others i have .

 

[highup]

Photoshop is what i used when i did the mugs Hi.
Thought i sent you a copy of adobe ?

That has so much stuff in it you really need to take a night course on it .

Let me know if you want it , and others i have .

You did. I think that was a 5.0 A friend gave me his old 6.0 . 6.0 has a whistle and one more bell than the 5.0 It would take a full 4 years of night courses for me to learn everything. I've found which parts work for my needs, and use them. The rest is uncharted territory................... I still don't know how to use layers, or even know why I would need to.
Recently tho, when I click to open Photoshop, it looks like it's beginning to open the program and never gets past the hourglass........ It even locks up the confuzer. I reloaded the program, and it still does it.
......that's another topic tho.