My bathroom floor project

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How wide is it E , I have to put new cove in my bath , and the tub has a design at the bottom . Was going to scribe the back , and contact that area .
 
Sorry, was down near the border with a weak signal.
About an inch, five foot lengths. Looks like cove stick shape.
 
Ok. so cove molding. I actually have some strips of it that I was planning to put in some of the corners in my bathroom. The piece of wood jutting out from under the tub is thicker than the cove molding that I have though. I'm afraid to try to chisel it bc I might damage the tub.
I think the strip of wood is at least an inch thick. If it weren't for that protrusion and the design on the side of the tub I was thinking of using the baseboard stuff that has adhesive on the back.
 
In front of the tub, I'd run down to either Home Depot or Lowe's and pick up a 6' "L" shaped molding. These moldings are built with styrofoam so water will not hurt them. Then glue it down with a waterproof caulking.
 
Ok, the bag I have 50lb bag that covers 50sqft at 1/8" (3mm) thickness and I need to cover a 10sqft (5' x 2') area but it will probably need to be thicker than 1/8" to cover up the previous mess. If I only wanted that thickness I would more or less need about 10lbs of the powder from the bag and then figure out how much water it needs... 6-1/2qts of water for 50lbs of powder...

I know that just using 10lbs of powder would be cutting it close and might not give me enough coverage. I mean, I could mix more if need be.. But I need to figure out how many qts of water. This is where I regret having gone to Louisiana public school for a critical point in math development...

So, 10lbs is 1/5th of the 50lbs which is 20%.. so I need to find 20% of the 6.5qts.. which is 1.3?

Does that sound about right? 10lbs powder and 1.3qts (5.2 cups) of water?

So, things I still need to figure out:
*Just how much extra should I make in case it doesn't cover?
*Should I just go with 2 separate batches in case the first layer doesn't cover it?
*What should I use to seal the edges and places where I don't want the stuff to go?

Any tips or suggestions?
 
I waited too long & the cats clawed up the bag & it's hard as a rock. My procrastination bit me in the keester again.

But, I'm trying to keep motivated & actually do stuff. I'm thinking of getting a cheap angle grinder to try to grind down the highest spots & try to smooth things out & go over it all with Henry 345 patch level. I will have to level it myself & I won't purchase until I'm actually ready to use it right away. I know it won't be perfect but it will be better than horrible sharp bumpy floor. I'll do it in thin layers & stick the dehumidifier in there to help it dry faster.

Harbor Freight currently has some angle grinders on sale and I'm wondering how many amps I would need to get the job done. Page 11 of their sale ad: http://flyer.harborfreight.com/april-2019-ad/page/11
They have a 4.3amp for about $15, a 5 amp for about $18, a 6amp for $30 (says its "heavy duty" and has paddle switch-- whatever that is), etc.

Any recommendations?
 
One job tools. But in your case you might not want to spend several hundred bucks. You will still need a diamond cup wheel.
 
Nick, I generally wouldn't buy much from them anymore bc their stuff is junk but I'm not planning to use it on anything else. I'm wondering if $30 is too much to spend for one time use. I was going to ask what type of wheel I would need but you answered for me. The wheels are more expensive than the tool. LOL!
 
The amount of $ it would cost in gas to go there and back plus the rental fee would be more than the cost of just buying the tool & wheel from HF.
 
Cement type materials don't want speed drying. Air movement is OK, but you aren't supposed to put a fan on the floor patch to dry it.
Any other places like home centers withing reach? Angle grinders aren't all that spendy at those places. I can buy a Porter Cable angle grinder at Bi-Mart (an Oregon/Northwest chain store) for about $30
 
Depending on how hard that Henry product is , and how much material needs to be removed, there are large grit reinforced carbide papers that might work for you and they are pretty cheap. I'm talking about 36 or 50 grit paper. The more that it looks like a gravel road, the better it will work.
If you are just removing small ridges and lumps that might work for you. If you have a one foot diameter round area that needs 1/4 inch of material removed those might not work well. If you fast dried the Henry product it may be softer than it's supposed to be.
..........and it gonna get extremely dusty even with a second person holding a shop vac next to the grinder.
 
There is a Tractor Supply in town but it has crap for inventory & no angle grinders (I looked). No other stores in town sell them.

There's an HD, Lowes, Sutherlands, and Harbor Freight an hour away.

Lowes has a Porter Cable 7-amp grinder for $40 but I don't see a matching diamond cup wheel in stock.
HD has a Ryobi 5.5-amp grinder for $30 but, again, I don't see matching wheels.

Would a dehumidifier be too much like a fan? It basically just sucks the moisture out of the air while sitting in the middle of the room. It gets a LOT of moisture bc of the humidity here. I tried the coarsest sandpaper I could find & it shredded on the sharp bumps. I have to take off more than 1/4" in some areas.

I'm guessing the angle grinders can't be used on wet surfaces or around water-- electrical hazard. I'll have to wear a dust mask & eye protection for sure & maybe have a damp rag handy.
 
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which grinder do you think would be better? We ended up not going to the store & will go another day. Hopefully my hand will heal by the time we get a grinder. I want to get this done asap.
 
I got the Porter Cable grinder from Lowes & the diamond cup wheel from HF. They even gave me discounts I didn't know about & applied coupons to stuff that I didn't know had coupons. The clerks were very friendly & helpful this time.

I forgot to take a picture of my friend when he was all geared up, but he had safety glasses (I made sure to get him some with red on them- red is his favorite color), red & black impact gloves, face shield, dust mask, & gel knee pads. He really liked the knee pads & said he can use them at work (he fixes arcade machines so he has to kneel down a lot). He got to keep all the gear but the face shield (which he said should stay here with the grinder). I used the little 3-gallon shop vac - geared with a dust mask and aviator's goggles. I caught some chunks of debris that flew off & got as much dust as I could. It wasn't quite as bad as I thought it would be. Went back and swept & vacuumed after the dust had time to settle more. Only problem with the shop vac is that it blows air and makes the dust fly more. I have the sheet vinyl lying flat again for now. I was worried it would get marks from being bent & stepped on while rolled over, but it just went back into place. I will need to adjust it more once the floor is smoothed with some leveling patch. I'm thinking of going with Henry 347 just to do a light coat to make it smooth. I know the grinding job wasn't perfect & there was a spot near the corner that got missed, but I wanted to focus mostly on where the toilet will sit.

Here is the before with the botched job (I wish I had removed the cardboard before starting-- but that stuff really got stuck in there-- grinder got it all out though):
1425471_10151807161285168_259615183_o.jpg
1531600_10151807161585168_109954572_o.jpg


After grinding:
56178598_390972965017483_5255675781316608000_n.jpg
56196800_2333412283364420_3444166323708362752_n.jpg


It's not perfect, but at least it's not as bumpy. With the patch it should be a bit smoother for the toilet & I might try to fix that one back corner a bit. Didn't want to get too close to the wall with that grinder. I'm not too worried about that corner- I'm going to stick the toilet brush & plunger back there so it won't be a big deal.

The current floor still kind of resembles the surface of the moon, but it's not nearly as bumpy as it was before. The stuff I want to use claims it will dry in 2 hours but I've heard people saying it can take 6 to 8 hours, so I'll be patient & keep cats locked out.
 

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