NEED HELP PLEASE: Marble Transition

[GTcrowley]

I am installing 600 sq. ft. Pergo laminate and I am running into a problem. There is a marble transition piece that is between the tile in my bathroom and the carpet in the bedroom. I am wondering if i can "butt" up to the marble transitional piece and leave the space on the other side of the wall for expansion. This would only be for 3 feet on a 15 foot wall.
I have asked every person at home depot and lowes with no luck. I also cant find anything on YouTube.
Here are the pictures of the problem.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/62060421@N03/16849935776/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/620604...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/620604...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/620604...n/photostream/

I was thinking maybe i could leave a small gap and fill it with the Pergo silicone in the seam and leave the gap on the other side for the expansion.
I am open to all suggestions and really appreciate any advice.

I would rather not have to remove this marble transition. I aware of T-molding and but thie marble is above the tile and the floor so another piece of molding my look weird.

 

[Incognito]

I give you my permission to use the silicone and a modest gap to the marble.

It'll work fine.

 

[Ernesto]

Thats why they make baby thresholds/carpet thresholds for butting to vertical objects like that and sliding door frames. You can also rip one side off a T-mold and butt it up there for a smaller less invasive look.

 

[rugaddict]

you can also undercut the marble if you are so inclined---believe it or not marble is pretty darn soft

 

[ccoffer]

You answered your own question. Just make sure there's room on the other end of the room. If you want to, you can glue it down next to the marble thingie with pure silicone so it won't bounce against the transition.

 

[highup]

You answered your own question. Just make sure there's room on the other end of the room. If you want to, you can glue it down next to the marble thingie with pure silicone so it won't bounce against the transition.

I did one of Armstrong's first locking groove laminate floors about 15 to18 years ago. The customer insisted on a flush mounted stair nose molding which was one step up from a large tile entryway. Armstrong said I could permanently fasten the nose on one side of the room, as long as I left extra expansion on the opposing wall.
They were not however, able to tell me how to accomplish the task.
I think that I ended up making a groove on the edge the laminate flooring and the nose piece using my table saw, and I glued the nose to the first plank with a spline.
Along with thick beads of silicone, I "glued and nailed" the nose permanently to the floor. I removed the flooring underlayment (pad) from under the first plank and substituted thick beads of silicone every inch or so. In this way, the silicone acted as a buffer between the rigidly nailed stair nose, and the floating floor's felt underlayment.

I allowed extra expansion on the opposing wall like CC said, by the glass door. I also filled the expansion groove where noted in red with silicone, to eliminate the possibility of any future twisting action the floor that might try to do. Twisting might have damaged the flooring joint I made where I glued it to the nose.
I ran into the homeowner a couple of days ago. He's a general contractor............. He said it still looks great. He's a hard man to please.
The room is 18 by 22.

 

[Ernesto]

When I'm on an inspection and the complaint is gapping of end joints and buckling the first thing I do is look behind or feel under transition strips that are inline with the problem area. I usually find one end of the floor locked in or both.
The inability of the rows that are locked in to move with the rest of the floor as a unit can cause end joint separation.