So I can't afford to redo all of the engineered hardwood, with the high labor cost. My alternative plan would be to just remove the wood from the kitchen and replace it with tile or luxury vinyl. Is it possible to just cut out the wood from the kitchen and have a nice clean cut between the edges of the wood where it would meet the new tile? Would I have to have some sort of raised, unsightly transition piece between the wood and the new tile? Thanks.
New Question. Transition from wood to tile.
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How thick is the hardwood you have now? You might be able to find a floating vinyl that’s close but will still need some sort of transition.
How much is the insurance company offering you to replace all adjoining areas? I’ve seen numerous jobs where the insurance company paid to replace the whole first floor due to a small flood in the kitchen. It’s really their responsibility to return it to how it was. The price you mentioned in the other thread is very high. If you can’t find anyone to do it for what they’re offering they need to pay more or use their own contractors. You need to be satisfied with the results. Don’t let them get away with underpaying. If need be, talk to a lawyer.
How much is the insurance company offering you to replace all adjoining areas? I’ve seen numerous jobs where the insurance company paid to replace the whole first floor due to a small flood in the kitchen. It’s really their responsibility to return it to how it was. The price you mentioned in the other thread is very high. If you can’t find anyone to do it for what they’re offering they need to pay more or use their own contractors. You need to be satisfied with the results. Don’t let them get away with underpaying. If need be, talk to a lawyer.
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3/8" engineered. Hopefully the contractor will be able to haggle with the insurance company some. I doubt insurance will come up to that huge amount for labor. I'm awaiting an estimate from a second contractor. If this works like my roof has been going, it could be a long process. My roofer haggled with the insurance company and insurance finally agreed to replace the whole roof, but it's been 3 months and it won't be until next week that I will finally get my roof. This water situation has created dangerous mold in my kitchen and I don't want my pets and I to wait 3 months living in this mold while contractors argue with insurance.
Yes, Insurance companies suck, no doubt.
Mold remediation is a whole different story and a whole different business than just changing the floor. There should be no procrastination. Insurance companies know this. It would be a huge liability for them to allow you to live in a house known to have mold. Call a mold remediation company immediately. Find another place to stay until resolved. The insurance company will/must pay the bill.
Mold remediation is a whole different story and a whole different business than just changing the floor. There should be no procrastination. Insurance companies know this. It would be a huge liability for them to allow you to live in a house known to have mold. Call a mold remediation company immediately. Find another place to stay until resolved. The insurance company will/must pay the bill.
I got estimates from different mold remediation companies and insurance denied my claim. They said it was not their problem since it was a long term leak and because they felt doing a water damage clean up would remove all of the mold. I didn't know there was a leak because it was hidden behind the cabinets. I only found out there was a leak back there after snakes moved into my kitchen and the pest control guy pulled out the dishwasher to find out where the snakes were and found the swamp behind the dishwasher. The leak was traced to the dishwasher. I will have to pay out of pocket for mold removal. I had the mold tested by a home inspection company not affiliated with any mold remediation company so that it wouldn't be biased. They found 2 molds in there that they consider particularly dangerous.
Unfortunately mold remediation done by a legitimate businesses will be expensive. OSHA will be one of the big expenses--------compliance criteria to keep the workers safe all pretty much apply to you and your pets as well. Good luck.
It is expensive. And I'm afraid that doing it will tank my claim for water damage. If my granite countertop breaks during mold remediation that insurance did not approve, I'm afraid that insurance will deny the claim based on the fact that they vetoed mold remediation. They had said they would cover broken granite during water damage restoration.
I'm sorry but it sounds like your insurance company is giving you the run around. I have a friend who had almost the same exact situation with their refrigerator. Had a leak they couldn't see, mold began growing. Insurance paid for everything including mold remediation and replacing all adjoining hardwood flooring that was 30 years old... I've also seen plenty of similar situations throughout my 40 year career in flooring. Check you homeowners policy and if you're confused as to what's covered please bring it to a lawyer. You should be covered.
Yes, and then I have to pay a lawyer more than the claim will be for. I've been down the lawyer road before for claims that were considered small amounts of money. The lawyer gets payed and I get nothing left over. And the lawyers didn't want to work on small percents of small claims. The dollar amounts weren't worth their time.
There are plenty of lawyers that offer free consultations. All it would take is a letter from a lawyer and the insurance company will admit their liability. It's not right what they're doing to you. If all you're saying is correct it's not going to be a small claim. This is not a law suit, It's merely pointing out what's right.
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If the fronts of the cabinets can be saved and cabinets rebuilt rather than replaced, I have an estimate for $22,000+ for all repairs. That does not include any special mold remediation. If the cabinets can't be rebuilt, then the figures will be higher for restoration. That's chump change to these guys. And while I lawyer shop, cats and I are living with mold. Easier to pony up $3500 for mold remediation, as long as the insurance company doesn't use it to cut coverage on the water damage repair. Insurance company is going to say they aren't responsible since it was a long term leak and failure of maintenance on my part (I didn't expect that a 6 year old name-brand dishwasher had a faulty seal) and their mold inspector felt the mold would be hauled away by just removing affected dry wall, flooring and particle board from cabinets and that any extra mold remediation is unnecessary.
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Depending on how much mold, it might not be a big deal to live around it unless there's a lot of air movement. If it's just sitting there under the cabinets, it's not flying around.
Back in the 80's when they began tightening up homes to save energy, moisture sometimes collected between the walls. Someone invented the term toxic mold, ie: black mold. Everyone since then thinks all mold is black mold and toxic. I worked for a guy that does remediation. He said tho it's always good to remove the mold, the vast majority isn't the scary "black death" kind.
Some people are very sensitive to it, just like allergy's.
I'd hook up a shop vac, put it outside, then using a long enough hose with a brush attachment....... suck up the mold anywhere you can reach it. Toss the filter, clean the hose and inside of the vac and you'll be fine till any mold remediation company comes and does whatever they do. Harbor Freight as a nice 6 gallon vac for $59, but you'd want more hose.
Back in the 80's when they began tightening up homes to save energy, moisture sometimes collected between the walls. Someone invented the term toxic mold, ie: black mold. Everyone since then thinks all mold is black mold and toxic. I worked for a guy that does remediation. He said tho it's always good to remove the mold, the vast majority isn't the scary "black death" kind.
Some people are very sensitive to it, just like allergy's.
I'd hook up a shop vac, put it outside, then using a long enough hose with a brush attachment....... suck up the mold anywhere you can reach it. Toss the filter, clean the hose and inside of the vac and you'll be fine till any mold remediation company comes and does whatever they do. Harbor Freight as a nice 6 gallon vac for $59, but you'd want more hose.
That's kind of what I've been wondering--whether it will just stay mostly under the cabinets and be ok. It did test as being too high in the air sample that was taken too, but I don't know how much too high is tolerable. The mold testing company says that I have dreaded mold. The testing company was one used by realtors and is independent of any mold remediation company. I'd rather not try a home remedy and end up spreading it around all over. I'd rather the pros cut out drywall, etc and package it up and haul it away.
No one is expected to check behind their permanently installed dishwasher for leaks as part of regular maintenance. Certainly not a 6 year old one.... You are right, they are wrong... They should pay, you should not.
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Well, they are going to pay for water damage restoration, though they gave me a really low number of what they would pay. They will not pay for any mold remediation. They are of the view that removing affected drywall, particle board, insulation and flooring, and wiping down non-porous surfaces, will rid the house of mold. All of those things will be done during the water damage restoration, which they say will cost $8000.
Well I'll end my rant here. This whole job, mold and all, should cost you no more than your deductible. If you decide to do any upgrades that of course would be on you but most any policy states they, (the insurer) will return the dwelling to it's prior condition. They cannot offer you less than it would cost to have that done. They can use their own contractor or shop for a more affordable one but whatever needs doing is on them....
Check your insurance papers to see what is of isn't covered.
The insurance company exists to make money. They don't like giving it back. That's understandable because homeowners play the game too, wanting a new house because a toilet got backed up.
Their first offer isn't their last offer unless you cave.
Be persistent but be reasonable. Will mold inside the walls migrate into the living area? Possibly.... ....through electric outlets or from under wall plates. This might migrate more with a forced air heating system or the wind outside. For walls, the sheetrock can be removed 12 or 18 inches up, then replaced with new.
I'd assume that mold can be removed, the surface cleaned, or treated or sealed, then closed back up. When homes are flooded you see this done all the time. They pull out the lower sheetrock and let things dry out.
We're all speculating because we don't see the extent of things as well as you do.
Mold needs moisture to continue growing, so if the moisture is gone it's not going to get worse.
An inspection camera costs about 50 bucks and that can be shoved into a hole in the wall so you know what's inside there and what's not. Same goes for under the toe kick. You only need a 1/4" or 3/8" hole. The cameras (Endoscopes) can be had for $50
The insurance company exists to make money. They don't like giving it back. That's understandable because homeowners play the game too, wanting a new house because a toilet got backed up.
Their first offer isn't their last offer unless you cave.
Be persistent but be reasonable. Will mold inside the walls migrate into the living area? Possibly.... ....through electric outlets or from under wall plates. This might migrate more with a forced air heating system or the wind outside. For walls, the sheetrock can be removed 12 or 18 inches up, then replaced with new.
I'd assume that mold can be removed, the surface cleaned, or treated or sealed, then closed back up. When homes are flooded you see this done all the time. They pull out the lower sheetrock and let things dry out.
We're all speculating because we don't see the extent of things as well as you do.
Mold needs moisture to continue growing, so if the moisture is gone it's not going to get worse.
An inspection camera costs about 50 bucks and that can be shoved into a hole in the wall so you know what's inside there and what's not. Same goes for under the toe kick. You only need a 1/4" or 3/8" hole. The cameras (Endoscopes) can be had for $50
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