Stair Nose Transition

[Chaucer]

Hi,

Looking for some advice how to handle my stair nose transition on last step to floor. A couple of things.

1. There is a height difference between the floor and the piece of wood I called "Part of stair". The difference varies along the entire width of the floor. I suppose I could shim to the different heights or sand?

2. The other issue is when I cut the last peice of flooring, that leaves a sharp edge on the piece of flooring not allowing a smooth transition to the stair nose. It's pre finsished stairs and not sure I could put on a bevel (which is beyond my skill set anyways).

Should I just use a piece of transition stripping to make this easy?

Thank you

 

[JPfloor]

Shim the bullnose up would be the best bet. Perhaps replace the riser with a taller piece.

If you own a router and a chamfer bit a bevel would be a pretty easy cut to make but then you’d have to refinish the edge to match. Although better still wouldn’t be quite right…

Definitely not a transition strip.

 

[Chaucer]

Hi,

Tks for the reply. It's the board behind the riser that is too high. It's looks like a 2 x 8 nailed to the stairs. It goes from being flush to about 1/8" on the other side you can't see.

I don't own a router. Maybe hand sanding will be enough to take some of the edge and stain will work.

Would you just use a hand saw to cut the board (behind the rise) flush ?

thank you

 

[JPfloor]

Oh….

I would try a plane and sanding before a hand saw. I would want to get the subfloor flat so the floor and bullnose are the same height without any sanding to the finished surface. You could sand the bottom side of the finished floor a little if that helps.

 

[Chaucer]

Hi,

I've been playing with it today. Have it pretty matched up, but due to the fact that it's a floating floor, the edge that is next to the bull nose is that is not locked it and slightly rises just a bit. Just enough to not match the bull nose in a few spots. Any suggestions? I know you are not suppose to tack down a floating floor.

 

[JPfloor]

Oh again…

A floating floor….All bets are off…

Perhaps a transition is in order. Or a thin bead of silicone tinted to match.

 

[Chaucer]

A floating floor….All bets are off…

Ha, your a funny man


Re: Silicone; To hold the floor down or fill a gap?

I think your right aboutthe transition...even if I got to to match up, that edge of the floor will not be held down and will always be squishy.

 

[JPfloor]

Fill the gap…As tiny as possible but at least it will give the floor a little room to move… I’d hate to create a tripping hazard right at the top of the stairs with a transition strip.

Also possible to fabricate the bullnose so it goes over the floating floor and becomes the transition…But that’s a little bit of fancy woodwork and still a tripping hazard.

Or just get it level, butt it up and hope for the best…

 

[C.J.]

Glue the T&G of the stair nose to the flooring. If you have the floor flush this should be alright and shouldn’t want to rock or somehow split at the joint. Maybe you apply some silicone to the stair nose then shoot it down with some 23 gauge pin nails. If the floor wants to move those nails won’t stop it from moving, they basically hold the floor until the silicone or adhesive sets up.

 

[JPfloor]

Glue the T&G of the stair nose to the flooring. If you have the floor flush this should be alright and shouldn’t want to rock or somehow split at the joint. Maybe you apply some silicone to the stair nose then shoot it down with some 23 gauge pin nails. If the floor wants to move those nails won’t stop it from moving, they basically hold the floor until the silicone or adhesive sets up.

That’s a good plan just make sure the nose of that step is secure. If you get a heavyweight stepping on it there’s some leverage working there trying to pull it up.

 

[Chaucer]

tks..actually the stock bullnose is about 1 inch wider. I cut it instead of the plank. I can cut the plank back 1 inch and leave the bull nose as is. That will make it a bit more stable on the edge.