For an apartment I would cover it as it is. A lot of installers simply cut the nose off before installing the floor but I prefer to build out the riser to flush things up.
Stair Staple placement
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Got any pictures of one ?
Thanks Highup, I’ll pass that on.
Hey, since the top has increased by approximately 1/2” should I install 1/4” of underlayment on the top step to minimize the increased riser depth ?
Hey, since the top has increased by approximately 1/2” should I install 1/4” of underlayment on the top step to minimize the increased riser depth ?
These days installers just lay over what is there with what is given to them. It’s the next guys problem to figure it out after that, as you are
The way the new stair nose is currently installed you need the original stair nose to support the new stair nose. The easiest solution would be to make a new riser out of 1/4” and angle it from the crotch of the stair to the tip of the nose then carpet that. You won’t loose much tread depth but it will angle out and cover all that nonsense. Will it look funny only having one stair like that, most likely but whatcha gonna do without having to fix somebody else’s work.
Other options are to remove both stair noses and start over. That will obviously require messing with the new floor, is that an overlap stair nose or a flush mount?
Or you can still build out the riser but now you’re losing tread depth which may or may not be a problem depending on who’s going up and down the stairs. Liability issues?
How many stairs are there? If you raise the top step only and its a full flight of stairs, someone would probably trip on the carpet on that top step. Being a different material at the top, they'd be less likely to trip on it because they see it's different. If it's out of range to meet code specs at that top step, maybe add 1/8 inch if that helps. I don't think I'd add any more than that.
.....I might not even have that. I think you'd want the carpeted steps to be all the same. When someone negotiates the top step it's a different material and their brain would comprehend that there's something different going on there.
Or add a quarter inch to all the steps.
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Holy smokes, you've been schooled! 
Looks like a properly finished edge.
30 years ago I did a face on some spiral stairs like that. I used a matching color of Formica.
That's exactly what I would do.
Looks like a properly finished edge.
30 years ago I did a face on some spiral stairs like that. I used a matching color of Formica.
That's exactly what I would do.
To peel off the top of the LVP, you could make a 2 inch cut with a utility knife down a planks length. It's pretty hard to peel off the full width of a plank, but two inches, not so bad. Don't heat the plank to make it easier to pull off. That will make the stuff stretch.
Any distortions from stretching pulling and tugging will go away using a hot hair dryer or a heat gun. So pull off the decorative surface at room temperature.
Any distortions from stretching pulling and tugging will go away using a hot hair dryer or a heat gun. So pull off the decorative surface at room temperature.
I like to build out the risers too. Cutting the nose is an issue when your new nose won’t cover the mess from cutting the old one out
Hi Tom, do you have any pictures you can share of a complete LVP stair nose.
I did the 2 Br’s and steps today. The LVP installer didn’t want me to install the veneer on the exposed top nose, so I installed the carpet.
Attachments
That looks fine. I wouldn't change a thing.
If you look closely at the top riser, you see about 3 or 4 staple dimples on the right, but no marks on 75% of the rest. Can you figure out why ? 
or How that was done 
As a side note: Billing wise, the LVP took 50 yds off my bill
, increasing my costs because the mobilization for the work
( 2br’s , and stairs ) is practically the same, and we practically had to vacuum the entire LVP area. Carpet fibers get everywhere
Anywho ! How would you word your extra billing for that ?
or How that was done As a side note: Billing wise, the LVP took 50 yds off my bill
, increasing my costs because the mobilization for the work( 2br’s , and stairs ) is practically the same, and we practically had to vacuum the entire LVP area. Carpet fibers get everywhere
Anywho ! How would you word your extra billing for that ?I don't think you can. You might be able to get away with a "trip charge" for anything under 50 yards.... Maybe.
Or a minimum charge for a truck and a crew... My shop would have just gave me another stop...
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Thanks JP, I like the trip charge under 50 yds.
If you look closely at the top riser, you see about 3 or 4 staple dimples on the right, but no marks on 75% of the rest. Can you figure out why ?
Should I tell you the answer ? Or does someone know how it was done.
Blind stapled. Staple from the back then stretch down the riser. Like a turn and tack.
Winner
give that guy an ice cream 
….. I was shown that trick back in the day, and enjoy using it to pay homage to teacher Martin Koritko ! ( rip Marty )Used to use it occasionally with thIn sisals and jute carpets. Another trick was to make a turned edge with contact cement.
