Trimming woven seams

[highup]

The seams in this Bloomsburg woven product are a pain to trim, at least the way I was told...... You aren't supposed to trim with a row cutter. Trim from the back, i was told, and to cut down the white lines, then the seal them securely with latex. Never could get a description of exactly where to cut so with the carpet I seamed together 4 or so years ago at the golf course, I split the white cotton locking or binding stitch, right down the center, then carefully sealed the edges.
I leave the entire white thread on each half of the seam it seems to leave too wide of a gap between the rows of pile.
It's easier by far to trim and leave the entire white cotton material on the edge that you want to seal. This is what it looks like leaving that material on bothe sides of the seam.

 

[highup]

This is what it looks like if I split those threads right down the center.
Not sure what they are called, a locking chain? Binding chain?
Anyway, this is what I recall then describing..... Splitting that skinny sucker right down the middle.

 

[MSLI]

This is what it looks like if I split those threads right down the center.
Not sure what they are called, a locking chain? Binding chain?
Anyway, this is what I recall then describing..... Splitting that skinny sucker right down the middle.
View attachment 20547

It’s been awhile since I trimmed, sealed and hot, or hand sewn a Bloomsburg woven Wilton Carpet seam, but I believe they apply a Sizing treatment onto the back side that assists with stabilizing the product.

Both methods, hot + sewing are possible,
but which one did they choose ? I’m sure
Sewing is preferred by Bloomsburg, but they know, in practice, there are
not enough hand sewing installers to keep up with the Wilton Looms So I believe the Sizing is used to help minimize problems when hot seaming is chosen

Now that brings us to Highups trimming issues. When hot seaming, if both of the lock stitching yarns are left on, the seam
Is most likely going to show. However, one could make the argument that because of the Sizing, even a hand sewn seam will not join as comfortably as it could, when leaving both recommended lock stitching yarns. SO ! What to do, What to do ? ….. it’s a Randy job

IMHO and logical discernment. If in fact they did apply Sizing, I would do as you did before, and leave one lock stitch, and seam seal accurately. As for the trimming, I would, as best as you can follow the middle of the lock stitch and all its ins and outs with a 1’ or 2’ straight edge, or be brave enough to free hand it

Best of Skill …. What seam tape do they recommend ? Probably coolglide

 

[highup]

Yeah, there is a sizing on the back. I've only done 3 woven carpets in the past....15 years. My brain is fuzzy now thinking what I did on each one.... A unitary, a face to face, and this one.
The golf job also had a very thin unitary woven that went into the large entry areas. There were only a couple of seams.
I recall pulling rows, applying seam sealer to all the weft strands that were sticking out, allowing it to totally dry, then trimming the strands off with shears...... and then edge sealing.
Those white cotton threads are called warp chains?
Yes, the KoolGlide will be my sewing method. I don't think they even mentioned hand sewing.

Well, I tried pulling rows..... Boy, you wouldn't want to "yank the wrong chain"

 

[highup]

I sent David my question and thought I haven't heard back, I think my question has been answered. I know I did this on one of those carpets..... Maybe I started one way, then changed it to this method.... most likely the correct one.
I'd like to find the video that precedes this one.

 

[highup]

Watch this one first.

 

[highup]

Tested drying time on a scrap., but when I pulled rows on the real carpet, neither edge looked remotely like this. I'm a bit frustrated. One side will be fine and I have it sealed.likevthis.
The other side I'll look at again tomorrow.
After pulling rows, it feels like theirs one too many and it doesn't feel like it will come off clean all the way down, so I'm kinda scared to start something without more thought.

 

[DarisMulkin]

If you lose the chain stitch[warp] you run the risk of losing the yarn on that edge, it would be very fragile. Latex is the desired sealer. Now you can back butter the cutting area to strenghten the cut area before cutting. This all takes time that is why you get PAID to do what you do. You didn't hear it from me but you can speed up latex drying with a little rubbing alcohol using a scrap of the carpet you are using to keep from color contamination. The alcohol attracts to water and evaporate fast.

 

[MSLI]

Tested drying time on a scrap., but when I pulled rows on the real carpet, neither edge looked remotely like this. I'm a bit frustrated. One side will be fine and I have it sealed.likevthis.
The other side I'll look at again tomorrow.
After pulling rows, it feels like theirs one too many and it doesn't feel like it will come off clean all the way down, so I'm kinda scared to start something without more thought.

Locate seam area, glue 1/4” of seam area, let dry, top cut four rows away, pull yarns , stuffers and chain stitches until you reach seam edge and it should look good for you. Carefully shear off the ‘ Weft ‘ threads and seal the edges, Bob’s your Uncle ……The frustration is understandable, but you have all the skills and more, so steady as she goes, keep going and listen to the Carpet. You have plenty of Carpet, just in case the trimming process shows signs of
weakness.

The other side I'll look at again tomorrow.
After pulling rows, it feels like theirs one too many and it doesn't feel like it will come off clean all the way down, so I'm kinda scared to start something without more thought.

The stuffer yarns can play hide and seek on you, and yes it’s scary digging in there and pulling it away. Trust the latex you applied onto the back two rows, like David said, let it dry and you’ll be fine.

However ! Since you’re hot seaming and concerned the seam will be visible. I would be tempted to do a *******ized trimming alternative test sample seam.
Make 2’ marks all along the middle of the Chain Stitch. Then apply a 3/8” wide bead of latex over the line. Let it dry, then straight edge mark to mark. Then clean off the seam side ( carefully) as best as possible and latex that edge, let it dry.. It will be a *******ized edge for sure, but with the sizing, the latex on the back and sides, it will be the best *******ized edge ever AND ! Like David says “ no right or wrong, just different “ AND ITS YOUR CALL TO DISCERN according to job conditions etc etc.

 

[highup]

If you lose the chain stitch[warp] you run the risk of losing the yarn on that edge, it would be very fragile. Latex is the desired sealer. Now you can back butter the cutting area to strenghten the cut area before cutting. This all takes time that is why you get PAID to do what you do. You didn't hear it from me but you can speed up latex drying with a little rubbing alcohol using a scrap of the carpet you are using to keep from color contamination. The alcohol attracts to water and evaporate fast.

They gave me a crappy edge on one side of the roll. I don't know if these photos show it. It almost feels and looks like two chains and stuffers are stuck together. If I pull on one, the rest seems to want to come with it. I can however cut (what I believe). Is the excess from the top side, using a 6" drywall spreader as my guide and straight edge. The skinny part here isn't that hard to remove using that method.
The sizing holds this material together pretty well.

 

[highup]

Here's more of what it looks like. Notice where I butted the carpet together it's like there's an extra chain?

 

[highup]

The other issue is one side of the material is thicker by a hair. Not much, it just feels thicker and more dense. I'm seaming with the Koolglide set on #2 and with 1/8" tempered hardboard under the seam. I use "my" SeamerDown/suckerdown tool on all my seams

 

[MSLI]

That looks good …. During hot seaming you should be able to compress that a little tighter …. Frustration has been mitigated/ minimized.

Take scraps home and practice hand sewing for the next one …. Like David says, easiest extra money you’ll ever earn, and then you can be an official member of the ‘ Fiber Friends’ ( He’s not only a Master Installer, but a Master with the English language )

 

[MSLI]

The other issue is one side of the material is thicker by a hair. Not much, it just feels thicker and more dense. I'm seaming with the Koolglide set on #2 and with 1/8" tempered hardboard under the seam. I use "my" SeamerDown/suckerdown tool on all my seamsView attachment 20559View attachment 20560

You may want to consider cutting back into the meat / solid weave since you have the goods to do so.

 

[highup]

Solid meat, as those chain and stuffer that looks to be sized together?
I'll seal it well. I don't do like David when sealing. I apply the bead, use my thumbnail as a tool to distribute the sealer evenly, then let it say in. I'll blot some away if it's toouch to soak in.
I'll play with it again in a couple hours when I get back down there.
If I cut an inch into the material, (obviously can't ), this would be possible.
Yes, I squished a bit too much sealer onto the top side and it got on the pile a little bit.
I'm using Orcon, not the real stuff. I gave up trying to locate a lump free bottle of latex decades ago. I spent too much time unclogging the tip.

 

[MSLI]

when I say ‘ meat ‘ I mean a few inches in from the selvage edge.