Hi, nope, they moved all the furniture also. We emptied our curio cabinet and I unloaded my gun safe and ammo, storing it at my neighbors house, but they did the rest. I really like the detail touches on the baseboard ends, where it stops abruptly.
What did you do today?
- Thread starter havasu
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Havasu, that's a neat way for them to end the baseboard. I'm sure with some caulk or paint the cut won't be visible from afar. I've seen some people recommend cutting shoe molding at a 30 degree angle when it ends abruptly.
I have to laugh. I thought I already caulked all the baseboard, until I posted this picture. Oh well, time to pull out the caulking gun again!
When you don't have door trim to butt into, that's better looking that just doing a 45 return.
Highup, I agree. It's something I never thought of doing & I have a few areas where the doors do not have trim so that's a neat solution & looks better than just ending abruptly or cutting at a 30 degree angle to end it. Now I really need to see if the old miter saw in the car port still works. It hasn't been used since my father passed away 10 years ago. Tree falling broke the link to power out there. He had a few tools out there for projects closer to the house. I really should take it down to the workshop but I'll probably have to get someone help me lift it.
Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
You can also paint a Plinth block and butt it against the existing trim. There are a lot of different styles and they only cost a couple bucks each.
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Good point, Tom. I've seen some plinth blocks online but a lot of them aren't carried at my local stores or the nearest big box stores. Speaking of local stores, I went to the local hardware store to pick up some fittings. When I was going through my PVC fittings to make sure I didn't need anything more, I discovered that what I thought was a 3/4" slip to mips was actually a 1/2" fips to 3/4" mips (unless it was just defective). The ID wouldn't fit around a 3/4" pipe. I also decided that because the flex hose pipe doesn't have too much flex to it, I wanted to use two metal elbows together. The hose still needs some flex to reduce vibrations and reach where I want it to reach, but with the extra elbow it will fit in the space between the pump & the pressure tank. Anyway, I was looking at galvanized fittings because they said they don't carry stainless steel. Couldn't find what I was looking for & happened to mention to the employee that I preferred stainless steel but that they didn't carry it. She then perked up & said "We just went to a trade show and were very excited to find a stainless steel fitting bin!" So, now they carry stainless steel fittings & I don't have to wait for them to be shipped from China. I got an extra elbow & another short stainless steel nipple (same price as the one from amazon and same size as the galvanized fitting I found at Lowes). It's lighter weight than the galvanized & looks better. The clerk said that if any of the stuff doesn't work I can return it for a refund. I'm glad I brought a couple of pieces of my own stuff with me (made sure to show the clerk what I was bringing in so she wouldn't think I was stealing anything). One of the fittings was filthy so it was obvious it wasn't theirs and they didn't even carry the other piece. I got a few duplicates just in case.
Meanwhile, my body absolutely hates me today & my pain relief meds aren't doing jack. At least I got the mail and put gas in the truck.
Meanwhile, my body absolutely hates me today & my pain relief meds aren't doing jack. At least I got the mail and put gas in the truck.
Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
The long shot will be my area to work on tonight. The area to the right of the fireplace came out pretty good. The strip was only 1 1/2 inches wide but locked in well. The picture from the other side of the fireplace shows my mistake. Will redo the row, moving the plank to the wall beside the fireplace and notching out an area to fit.
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Not sure it's all that bad. The molding will cover most of that. Add a dab of Titebond to the lock.
Looks good to me, Tom. I only hope I do as well when I get around to my laundry room floor (and I need to stop procrastinating & actually work on my bathroom floor).
On the laundry room floor, I'm still debating what to use for subfloor. Would two layers of this 23/32 pine plywood work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/23-32-i...and-Groove-Plywood-Sheathing-724084/100003769
Tongue & groove so it locks together. I'd use an appropriate adhesive (trying to remember what that would be). I'm trying to figure out how many boards I'd need for both rooms. One is around 8'x10' and the other is around 8'x5'. I think I'd need about 8 of them? My brain is not wanting to do math right now. LOL.
On the laundry room floor, I'm still debating what to use for subfloor. Would two layers of this 23/32 pine plywood work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/23-32-i...and-Groove-Plywood-Sheathing-724084/100003769
Tongue & groove so it locks together. I'd use an appropriate adhesive (trying to remember what that would be). I'm trying to figure out how many boards I'd need for both rooms. One is around 8'x10' and the other is around 8'x5'. I think I'd need about 8 of them? My brain is not wanting to do math right now. LOL.
Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
Warning, everything I say is based mostly on watching every episode of Holmes on Homes, lol.
I see 5 sheets for a double layer. But what will that do to your entryway?
If using a quality vinyl, you could lay on top of concrete with just a vapor barrier.
Another option is Shaw glue down laminate planks or tiles. The tiles are sold at HD. But you have to buy the adhesive from Lowe’s. My kitchen came out really nice.
Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
You mean underlayment? Subfloor i
You must be trying to bring the height up more than it is now?
You mean underlayment I think. The layer on top of the joists is the sub floor.
You must be trying to bring the height up more than it is now?
Sorry, to clarify: I'm replacing the subfloor (as you said, part that spans the joists) bc the old floor is rotted all the way through in some spots. It was built in the 40s so they don't sell the plywood in the thicknesses used anymore. I'm not terribly concerned about the height so long as it doesn't leave huge gaps. What I'm trying to figure out is if I would need two layers of the 23/32 or if I could get away with what Lowes calls a "single layer subfloor" that is 1-1/8" thick and rated for subfloor. Both are tongue-and-groove so they will lock together.
It's for the laundry room & bathroom (with tub). So, I want to make sure it can hold the weight-- although I plan on shoring up the joists (& trying to figure out how to level them bc the house sort of sunk down a bit on the north side). I suppose worst case I could pour self-leveling compound if the new subfloor is lower than the kitchen floor, but I hope to avoid that.
I'm leaning toward being cheap & just getting the single-layer kind. If it is too low or feels too thin, I could see about putting down a plywood underlayment on top, but I'm hoping it won't be necessary. My vinyl planks come with underlayment attached. I plan to use vinyl sheet for the bathroom.
It's for the laundry room & bathroom (with tub). So, I want to make sure it can hold the weight-- although I plan on shoring up the joists (& trying to figure out how to level them bc the house sort of sunk down a bit on the north side). I suppose worst case I could pour self-leveling compound if the new subfloor is lower than the kitchen floor, but I hope to avoid that.
I'm leaning toward being cheap & just getting the single-layer kind. If it is too low or feels too thin, I could see about putting down a plywood underlayment on top, but I'm hoping it won't be necessary. My vinyl planks come with underlayment attached. I plan to use vinyl sheet for the bathroom.
To level the joist just sister in a 2x along side the original joist level to the world. Or mark a piece that is alongside and cut it to the line and lay on top of the joist and anchor. That is what I did on a house where I lived that was built in the 1860's.
Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
And make sure the crown is on top for each joist. I told you I watched every episode of Holmes.
As long as you don't watch American Woodshop on PBS you'll be OK.
A cheap hand plane works great for that. You barely need to take any off. I use one of those cheap tiny Stanley planes.
I used to watch him also. I even tried to contact him because of a carpet thing that was being done wrong and couldn't. You had to live in one of the provinces to get through.
Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
Exactly what I used. I planed off the locking edge and used Gorilla clear gel. Gives a fair amount of working time.
