Will skim coating over PS adhesive allow another adhesive to bond

[highup]

A local installer installed carpet tiles in a basement rec room. He got a tiny dab of glue on one of the tiles so I've got to replace that one.
At the entrance to the room there are two stairs and the sides were carpeted up to the base of where the sheetrock started he used pressure sensitive to adhere the carpet tiles to the cinder block. They're just not enough grab to hold these in place. They're small pieces, but I just want something that will hold them in place better. They'd be equivalent to a skirt board if I had to describe them.
If I skim-coated them with ardex or equivalent without allowing me to use a different adhesive? I'm guessing the skin coat will bond better to the PS adhesive than the carpet tiles, so that's my plan.
A penny for your thoughts on this.
Also, being small pieces, what would be a good adhesive would good to glue carpet tiles in place permanently. The PS adhesive just isn't strong enough.

 

[Commercial Floor Rep]

If you can get the old PSA off it would be best. Most of them are water based so hot soapy water may do the trick. That's why I'd be slightly nervous about using patch without getting the majority of it off. The water from the patch might cause it to soften and sag. I wouldn't worry about on the floor where gravity is our friend, but the wall is a different issue.

If you wanted something that would result in more of a "bond coat" or primer type situation, instead of the skim-coat, Ardex makes a product on their tile side called 8+9. It's actually a cementitious water proofing membrane. I've actually used it as a "bond coat" to install 12"x 24" over old 4 1/4" ceramic tiles on a vertical surface. We're now at 8 years and nothing has moved. It looks like real runny feather finish when you get it mixed up and you can even apply it with a paint roller. It's also one hell of a water proofing membrane. They actually use / used it in Europe for decades as a waterproofing for roofs. It's been around since the 1950's.

For re-sticking it...
For a permanent solution, use a firm setting acrylic based transitional PSA. Roberts 7399 for example or Taylor Dynamic or Taylor Pinnacle. You may have to tape them in place overnight until the glue transitions to a firm / hard set.

Good luck with it High. I'm sure you'll get it whipped into shape!

 

[highup]

These are just small pieces not whole tiles. Heck they might stick on with hot glue it's been a few months since I went over and looked at the job and I recall it's more of a thin film, not big trowel notches. Being on cinder block most of it went into the pores, not much can be done about that. There might be enough porosity to grab or key in the skim coat. If that does cover or coat the PS adhesive, would cove base adhesive adhere to the back of the tile backing. I don't know what the back side of these carpet tiles are. Vinyl of some sort, but all vinyls aren't the same. They may have some leftover carpet tiles at the warehouse and I could do a quick test with it.

 

[JPfloor]

would cove base adhesive adhere to the back of the tile backing.

Yes. That would be my choice. I wouldn’t even try to remove the old adhesive, it’s as good a primer as any.

 

[highup]

Yes. That would be my choice. I wouldn’t even try to remove the old adhesive, it’s as good a primer as any.

It takes very little to hold a piece of this carpeting vertically on the wall. I just figured the skim coat would act as a buffer so the unknown adhesives don't intermingle.
..... If they did, I'd have to bring out the hammer drill and lag screws.
Do they make leg screws and black chrome?

 

[JPfloor]

I would think the porosity of the cinder block would help with the adhesion if using cove base adhesive… I’m not a chemist but I’d be willing to wager there will be no chemical reaction using cove base cement (unless you’re using the old black stuff) and pressure sensitive…. Plus you’ll be in and out of there in about 30 seconds…

 

[highup]

I would think the porosity of the cinder block would help with the adhesion if using cove base adhesive… I’m not a chemist but I’d be willing to wager there will be no chemical reaction using cove base cement (unless you’re using the old black stuff) and pressure sensitive…. Plus you’ll be in and out of there in about 30 seconds…

I also need to swap out one carpet tile that somehow got a smear of adhesive on it....
....so let's call it a full minute.
Thanks, I'll do a little test beforehand for the heck of it.