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@ highup Totally get what your saying. I was taught that you need at least 1" of plywood to tile on most of the time this will make the hight in most bathrooms exceed the fact that cbu board will make the floor to high, so using the right plywood would make it possible to tile right over...

http://www.hidemyass.com/ Here you go Ernesto! Ha ha!

Sorry but not understanding why they needed to cheep out on the ply in order for the hight fight?.. Could at least sistered and cat the 2x6 joists then your 1/2" would have a fighting chance. What size cement board?.... 1/4" is best for floors. 3/4" and ditra mat is the way you should have gone...

Its horrible that Schluter has a 5 year warranty. There is better stuff out there I don't use it anymore anyway.

I used to repair computers for a living before apple took over the market now I'm in carpentry. But I still know a thing or 2 about computers.

I would have to disagree it's just like windows updates your antivirus is only as good if you do your updates. Same with Firefox, chrome ect.

If you don't update get ready for viruses

Google chrome is the fastest browser out there and rated way better then IE explorer. I seem to notice a big difference between the 2.

Either that or they install before its totally acclimated, seen that alot.

Over what the cbu?... I think the cbu won't be worth saving after the tile is up, don't think it will end up to be hills and valleys where slc will remedy much.

I gave out my 2 options you can do the rest there Bud, oh wait I think you already did post your option?.. Lol

There are 2 options to go with here. If you just remove the tile you will end up leaving thinset on the backer board so getting the excess off will disturb the top layer of cement board. So you can get all the high spots off make it flat as possible then put a skim coat of thinset, let dry then...

Thanks Ernesto I guess I should keep to the laminate side of the forum on here lol eek!

Yes There both waterproof So if you add the Kerdi to the sides you have a shower pan.

I knew it was going to put me in hot water when I was typing "CDX"

Lol I completely understand that no one will suggest using cdx and this discussion has been thrown around alot in these forums but I don't care it has yet to fail me. @ bud show me voids knot holes.

Because its a kitchen not a walk in shower, membranes are for wetbeds and for that purpose. If the op wants to add a filler then use a cement board. CDX?.... Sanded of course has little to no knot holes if there are fill them with thinset skim coat.

Well you can add backer board but a membrane to be honest it will be pointless in this case since its a kitchen. A backer board might give you a better hold on your thinset and tile other then risking it trying to adhere tile to the old plywood. the best method would be to replace your...

I never leave the exps gap for transition piece as I believe those are made not to expand the ones that match the laminate aren't make out of the same material to do so. If you use 12mm 1/4 - 1/2 but make shore your base will cover the gaps.

This possibly could be the winner of cheap Laminate!! Saw this in a store the other day I can't tell you were cuz it will ruin the fun lol http://www.houserepairtalk.com/members/isola96/albums/work/1064-image-837306340/