How do you do this ? (please read)

[highup]

Your armed with some advice and that should instill a little confidence. Sometimes the hardest part is getting started, but once you do get started you'll probably find this easier than you thought even though the nailing part is going to be a pain in the butt. Screws are too. There are ways to speed up screwing the floor down too. If after nailing down some of the panels, if you believe screws might be better in heavy traffic areas like the hallway or areas where you walk a lot, I can give you a couple of hints on that if you need it.
You need to think one panel at a time, and not be overwhelmed by the entire job... You just find a starting point and start working.

 

[DarisMulkin]

Thank you so much for your help. I have the confidence in doing this project - the right way. Daris, nah I will not miss the nail and hit my thumb with that hammer.

Seriously, I will experiment with two different hammers, one with smooth and another one you see in the picture a few posts ago.

When selecting a hammer go by the weight you are comfortable swinging. The wrong weight can make for a long day. The one you pictured is more for framing.

 

[Csason]

Welcome to my world.
Clic planks are more forgiving than LVT which is installed with pressure sensitive adhesive. If you’re putting LVT down that floor has to be flawless or it’s a waste of time,.
Looks like you’re putting a clic floor down. I’ve put down thousands and thousands of sq ft of clic from all the manufacturers from Shaw to manninton to Armstrong to the myriad of clic floors available from bib box stores.

In my opinion you could glue thin plywoood down over the “concrete” area, except it isn’t concrete it’s a leveling compound like Ardex.
I pour leveling mud like Mapei frequently .

The issues people run into are gaps and pockets between a lightweight clic floor (vinyl ) over unlevel floor. Lightweight clic floors look great but honestly that is it, they don’t feel like a solid floor unless you have all your furniture on the floor to give it that stronger bonded feel to a floor.
STONE CORE or RIGID CORE products are supposed to feel better and more solid IF the floor is flat . That is why I pour self leveling Mapei over almost every wood floor or bad foundation I do.

THE VERY BEST WAY TO TELL IF YOU HAVE YOUR FLOOR RIGHT IS ASSEMBLE A SECTION AND WALK ON IT OVER WHAT YOU HAVE.

 

[Csason]

There is no need to put another subfloor down over 3/4 inch ply . Pour self leveling per instructions let it do its job and install the next day I do it several times a month much cheaper than trying to flatten a floor with additional layers of subfloor or sanding. If we have a floor that has a super unlevel marriage line or sections we pour Mapei by the five gallon bucket, use a twelve foot screed I use a section of 3 inch aluminum tubing we bid one bag to the bucket and fill. Four inches from the top with water and mix with egg beater on drill .

 

[madmax64]

Here is a link to APA website about floor underlayment. Excellent info about how to lay new plywood over the existing floor.
APA Builder Tips: Proper Handling and Installation of APA Plywood Underlayment, Form R340

 

[highup]

Just don't make all those angled cuts that they show or the next row is going to be a real b****

 

[madmax64]

Highup,

The new plywood (over the existing subfloor) has lots of knots in it about the size of a quarter or half dollar coin. There are as many as 8-12 knots in one 4 x 8 sheet of plywood.

Do these knots need to be filled in prior to me laying the floating LVP floor? if so, what should I use? Wood filler, patching compound, etc? If I don't fill in all of these knots, will it create more "bounce," noise or hollow sounds once the floating floor is laid down? I use COREtec LVP planks with cork (bottom side).

Let me know... thanks!

 

[DarisMulkin]

I would say its the wrong ply. It should at least smooth.

 

[madmax64]

I would say its the wrong ply. It should at least smooth.

I am not going to take 15 sheets of plywood back to the store. I am sure that there is a way to correct them with a patch or something.

 

[Jon]

Highup,

The new plywood (over the existing subfloor) has lots of knots in it about the size of a quarter or half dollar coin. There are as many as 8-12 knots in one 4 x 8 sheet of plywood.

Do these knots need to be filled in prior to me laying the floating LVP floor? if so, what should I use? Wood filler, patching compound, etc? If I don't fill in all of these knots, will it create more "bounce," noise or hollow sounds once the floating floor is laid down? I use COREtec LVP planks with cork (bottom side).

Let me know... thanks!

Are there any bubbles in the ply like in that video ?


To me they would be more of a concern as your Coretec LVP planks might not go over the bubbles
Now if I was laying vinyl planks using the full spread method I would be concerned about the knots but if I have things correctly you are using a floating system
highup will be along soon to say what he thinks

 

[Csason]

I am not going to take 15 sheets of plywood back to the store. I am sure that there is a way to correct them with a patch or something.

Okay lay a box of coretex and walk on it if you’re happy you’re good to go . A quarter sized divot 1/8” deep won’t affect flooor if it does hire a pro next time and hold them responsible if it fails and make them replace it. I make a good living putting floors down over questionable substrate/ because I do it for a living. Let us sweat it out you go bowling and leave the issues to pros.

 

[highup]

Like Daris said, that type of plywood is typically used for exterior sheathing and roofs. It's not sanded so it's not usually as smooth as an AC or a CCPTS plywood. I suppose as long as the plies of plywood are laminated tightly together and don't have any loose spots at them it might be okay. That type of plywood isn't really designed for floors. All that said if it doesn't have loose pieces or lumps and bumps that can't be dealt with it might work. Though it probably isn't absolutely necessary it wouldn't hurt to fill them.... It's one of those judgment calls and it's hard without seeing the plywood to give you recommendations on it.

 

[DarisMulkin]

I know you aren't installing sheet goods but if there are voids between the plys a woman with stilleto type high heels could poke through it, even in sanded goods that could happen.

 

[highup]

Darus, he's installing a lock together laminate type floor but it's hard without seeing the actual product what he has. I've seen CDX plywood where the chunks of extra plywood underneath apply, creating a bulge in the floor and also poorly laminated areas. Those aren't such a big deal if the plywood is exterior sheathing on a house and will be covered up with lap siding. On a floor I'd be much more concerned about it. But again we can't see his actual product to know the condition of it. It might actually be okay.......... or?