Need tips for drilling anchors.

[Brlymeguy]

I am having a hard time. My problem is, though I have measured and marked the perfect dots, my holes don't come out perfectly in line. I'm using a 3/16" masonary bit and being sure I am holding the drill at the correct angle. I just don't know what is going on. Do I need to start with a tiny bit to get the correct spot? I have walked away from it in extreme anger and want to have a plan before I get back to it, because I seem to mess things up worse when I'm angry. Lol. Keep in mind I don't do this type of thing much. Any help appreciated.

 

[Mark Brown]

Bigger holes, dowels... room for error

I usually drill through metals i am trying to install for exactly this reason. Precision blows and fool proof is Mark proof and he is me.

 

[Brlymeguy]

Bigger holes, dowels... room for error

I usually drill through metals i am trying to install for exactly this reason. Precision blows and fool proof is Mark proof and he is me.

Dang, sometimes the answer is so simple. I've been trying not to lose my mind over the screw being a fraction off, and if I had just drilled through the metal track, it would have been no issue. Wow. Thanks man!

 

[C.J.]

I don’t drill anchor holes unless I’m doing something in a commercial setting that needs to be bullet proof. I would glue down your transition. Construction adhesive, silicone, Lexel or DAP ultra. You can glue the track in place and go that route or chuck it and just glue down the transition. Much easier than drilling holes.

 

[Brlymeguy]

I don’t drill anchor holes unless I’m doing something in a commercial setting that needs to be bullet proof. I would glue down your transition. Construction adhesive, silicone, Lexel or DAP ultra. You can glue the track in place and go that route or chuck it and just glue down the transition. Much easier than drilling holes.

Yeah, I was going to glue it, then I realized I got the wrong adhesive for the job. Plus the transition needed to be shimmed, and I figured screwing would be better. I didn't realize it would give me such a headache, though. I think I'll be able to finish it out okay, and if not, I will have to resort to the glue method. Thanks.

 

[highup]

I am having a hard time. My problem is, though I have measured and marked the perfect dots, my holes don't come out perfectly in line. I'm using a 3/16" masonary bit and being sure I am holding the drill at the correct angle. I just don't know what is going on. Do I need to start with a tiny bit to get the correct spot? I have walked away from it in extreme anger and want to have a plan before I get back to it, because I seem to mess things up worse when I'm angry. Lol. Keep in mind I don't do this type of thing much. Any help appreciated.

I use blue tape and make a dot like you said. Drill first with a 1/8 inch drill bit. I've never tried it but I don't know why you couldn't use a good steel center punch before using the 1/8 inch bit.
My favorite was made by DeWalt. Installing tack strip in an older basement I drilled 199 1/8" holes with one bit.
Milwaukee I believe has a similar design bit. It's got kind of a funky w shape on the business end.
It might be an m shape instead of a w shape..... depends on how you look at it.

 

[highup]

Dang, sometimes the answer is so simple. I've been trying not to lose my mind over the screw being a fraction off, and if I had just drilled through the metal track, it would have been no issue. Wow. Thanks man!

You sound like you're totally crazy trying to be so perfect.
I hope you stay here, we might be related.

 

[Brlymeguy]

You sound like you're totally crazy trying to be so perfect.
I hope you stay here, we might be related.

The ironic thing is how much I can obsess over something not being perfect, but still not knowing when to walk away because of frustration. I would be embarrassed for anyone to see what I've done drilling these holes. Looks like a 5 year old was trying to drill them. Okay, maybe a 10 year old. I should have stopped after the first 3 or 4, but stubborn me kept going. Now when I look at it, I want to puke. Ha. Your blue tape advice with the 1/8" sounds perfect. Wish I had done that from the start.

 

[highup]

Here's the drill bit that I was talking about with the funky tip.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5221-8-Inch-3-Inch-Carbide/dp/B00004RHBG

 

[Brlymeguy]

Here's the drill bit that I was talking about with the funky tip.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5221-8-Inch-3-Inch-Carbide/dp/B00004RHBG

Cool. If I do this again in the future, I should be better equipped with knowledge. I think I have decided to screw the edges, and have a screw in the center, with a light bead of adhesive under. That should be pretty rock solid, and keep me from going crazy over the mis-aligned holes and having to drill more. Thanks for all the help!

 

[C.J.]

KISS works like a charm. Took me maybe 15 minutes to do two doorways complete.

 

[Brlymeguy]

KISS works like a charm. Took me maybe 15 minutes to do two doorways complete.
View attachment 12503View attachment 12504View attachment 12505View attachment 12506View attachment 12507

If I had it to do over, I probably would have just glued it, no doubt. I have the track screwed in finally. Took Mark's advice and just drilled through the metal so that my pre-existing holes lined up with the track. Saved the day, and it should be solid. Part of why I decided to screw was that I have fixed several transitions at various places that were initially glued down. It is obviously a much easier option, and maybe they just used the wrong adhesive. I have used lexel before, but didn't think about it on concrete. Will keep it in mind in the future.

 

[C.J.]

The thing I like about Lexel is it sets up fairly quick as compared to construction adhesive. If I set my tracks in the morning they are solid by the time I’m done installing the floor and ready to snap in the transition.

 

[MikeAntonetti]

It’s all a learning curve and gradual changes from repeated actions. You are using hammer drill right?

 

[Brlymeguy]

It’s all a learning curve and gradual changes from repeated actions. You are using hammer drill right?

No, my hammer drill burned up during my last project, so I just used a regular drill. You think that could have caused the slight wandering? It's taken care of now, but that would be interesting to know if that was part of the problem. I know hammer drills are usually what's used on concrete.

 

[C.J.]

Hammer drill definitely makes a difference. Regular drill will wander for sure.

 

[Brlymeguy]

Hammer drill definitely makes a difference. Regular drill will wander for sure.

Got ya. That may have been a huge part of my problem. I've only installed one other transition on concrete using a hammer drill, and I definitely don't remember having that problem. I know now for sure.

 

[C.J.]

Imagine trying to drill metal without first using a center punch. That bit will wander before it finally bites and when it does bite it certainly won’t be where you started it. Concrete isn’t much different.

 

[Brlymeguy]

Imagine trying to drill metal without first using a center punch. That bit will wander before it finally bites and when it does bite it certainly won’t be where you started it. Concrete isn’t much different.

Makes sense. Wow, I should have mentioned that to begin with, but didn't really realize that could have an impact. I thought the hammer drill was just better about going deeper into concrete, and that I would be fine with just having to do 4 or 5 holes. Ha. We see how it turned out. Luckily I managed to at least get the thing down and secure. Learned a good lesson. Thanks for the info., though, so I don't have to repeat the mistakes one day.

 

[MikeAntonetti]

Hammer drill is extremely faster too. Then there are SDS bits that don’t slip in the chuck.