Quarter Round installation tips? (complex job)

[nickmv]

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some QR installation tips for a somewhat complicated room setup.

I've got a sunroom added onto the house -- 2 walls are original wood siding and 2 are metal. At the base of each metal wall there are metal "plates" with screws sticking out. This presents a challenge because not only is there nothing to nail into, but the screws themselves present a challenge to mounting it flush. See pics at bottom of this post for a better view. This is a CoreTEC SPC vinyl floor w/ matching patterned SPC QR.

What's the best option for mounting the quarter round to the walls? I'm assuming either strong adhesive strips of proper thickness (about 1/8") or a silicone adhesive, but I've found little to no suggestions on forums about mounting to metal walls. I also plan to fill any gap leftover with white silicone caulk between the QR and the wall.

What's best option to account for the screws sticking out? I thought about removing the screws (seems risky) but I've also though about adding more screws so that there's no place where the QR can flex toward the wall in spots where there are no screws.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

 

[highup]

The metal upright looks to be about 5 in wide and the lower metal piece looks to be about an inch high if I'm seeing this correctly?
I don't know if there might possibly be a channel aluminum profile that might be 1 inch high by 3/4 deep.
If so, you could cut a 5-in wide piece of channel aluminum, paint it white and glue it into place to cover up the screws. You could then butt your quarter round molding up against the end of the channel aluminum. Most decent hardware stores have a rack with different types of aluminum profiles.
I don't know if any of what I'm saying makes sense. I'm just saying that if you could find a piece of channel aluminum, you could cut a piece and slide it in place to cover up those screws.
You might have to get fancy and cap the ends of the channel aluminum to form it into a little box shape before painting it white.
Anyway, you just need to find something or make something to form a little cap around those screws and then butt your quarter round to the boxes.

 

[highup]

This is the type of material that I'm trying to describe.
https://www.google.com/search?q=alu...8740,oid:3535374357982015562,pvt:hg&oshop=apv

 

[highup]

Here's another that might be closer to the type you'd actually need.
You would want a channel that's as tall as the white piece that runs horizontally so that it would cover the screws and would look like it belongs there.


https://www.outwater.com/products/alu2161-s/

 

[highup]

This is what I'm talking about.
The upright beams look to be about 5 in wide so you'd cut the channel 5 in wide to match it.
You then need to cut and fit little end caps for the channel. Some type of super glue or epoxy would hold those in place and you could then sand the ends smooth and shoot them with some white paint.
A single drop of super glue on each end of the channel would probably hold it in place just fine. If you tried to put a drop of instant glue on the bottom edge of the channel, you might easily glue it to the floor which you don't want.

 

[Floorist]

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some QR installation tips for a somewhat complicated room setup.

I've got a sunroom added onto the house -- 2 walls are original wood siding and 2 are metal. At the base of each metal wall there are metal "plates" with screws sticking out. This presents a challenge because not only is there nothing to nail into, but the screws themselves present a challenge to mounting it flush. See pics at bottom of this post for a better view. This is a CoreTEC SPC vinyl floor w/ matching patterned SPC QR.

What's the best option for mounting the quarter round to the walls? I'm assuming either strong adhesive strips of proper thickness (about 1/8") or a silicone adhesive, but I've found little to no suggestions on forums about mounting to metal walls. I also plan to fill any gap leftover with white silicone caulk between the QR and the wall.

What's best option to account for the screws sticking out? I thought about removing the screws (seems risky) but I've also though about adding more screws so that there's no place where the QR can flex toward the wall in spots where there are no screws.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

How much room is under the bolts? If enough you could cut a U shape in 1/4 round to fit under bolts and then glue on the wall or floor. You know, a notch.

 

[Tile Tom]

I would just calk those walls with grey silicone and call it a day.

If you really want the Q round then just cut to length and kind of push into where each screw head is and carefully drill out just slightly bigger than the screw head. A couple dabs of silicone and some blue tape to hold in place until it sets up then go and calk your tops.
No sense turning a mole hill into a mountain.....

 

[C.J.]

I like Tom’s idea of just caulking those walls. Mask off the floor with blue tape spaced maybe 3/16” away from the metal then apply and smooth the caulk. Remove the tape and you’ll have a nice clean bead of silicone.

 

[highup]

I would just calk those walls with grey silicone and call it a day.

If you really want the Q round then just cut to length and kind of push into where each screw head is and carefully drill out just slightly bigger than the screw head. A couple dabs of silicone and some blue tape to hold in place until it sets up then go and calk your tops.
No sense turning a mole hill into a mountain.....

I'd hate to live somewhere without mountains. The more the merrier.

 

[C.J.]

Another option is to take some leftover flooring itself and turn it into trim pieces. Rip some planks on the table saw down to 1” or maybe 3/4” wide. If you keep the factory edge that helps so you would get 2 pieces out of one plank, one from each side. Then you turn them pieces on their side and rip them down to 1/8” or so thick. Bump the cut edge against the metal and the factory edge is the exposed edge. Any raw edge still exposed can be touched up with a colored marker to help blend it to the rest of the floor. Silicone the pieces down and if you absolutely have to you can use a few 23 gauge pinners to tack the pieces in place until the silicone sets up.

Another option is to rip T-molds in half, so you’ll get two pieces per each T-mold, and bump the metal with them to achieve the same look. Only thing with this option is you gotta have the T-molds to modify them and they’re what $30 to $40 each?

It will look something like this.

 

[highup]

I think we scared him away with words.