What did you do today?

[Tom Picciani]

Sounds too much like work.

I have stained trim throughout house. The baseboard is 40 years old and looked it. So I am staining the new trim. The kitchen was done the same way. Came out pretty good I think.

 

[Tom Picciani]

I have carpet in the bedrooms and putting Coretec in the hallway. The carpet was not installed very well. Colors of carpet in bedroom and what was in hall were different. The border was at the bedroom edge of the stop molding. Planning on T molding. Can I just staple the carpet down? I was thinking of adding foam tape underneath carpet to lift it up a bit. I also have a bit of leftover carpet I can tuck under. What would work best?

 

[highup]

How soon are you going to get to the carpet edges?

 

[highup]

They are after money. Depends on the size of the cra

I knew a guy who put a piece of plywood over his bed and glued turf to it with outdoor glue. A piece of masonite with a little frame support on the back would also be almost waterproof. I did repairs out of a minivan. Only thing I could not carry was 12' metal, but I could get 8' in.
We can't have any cracks on a windshield now. They changed it a couple years ago.

Follow the money. I'd love to see true life stories where a crack like mine cause personal injury. Mine isn't a visual issue other than you can see the crack. It doesn't affect my view, and the angled edges of the crack don't shoot out laser beams that could cauterize my retina when the sun hits em.
Windshield wipers block the view 1000x more and they make me dizzy.

One more thing. We are required to have operating windshield wipers, but not windshields.

 

[highup]

I did that plywood thing once on a 66 Chevy stepside. Not for flooring stuff tho. I an't live without my shop vac. I haven't made a seam in 10 years without it.
I just have too many tools to drive off into the unknown, hoping I have what I need in a condensed fashion.

 

[Tom Picciani]

How soon are you going to get to the carpet edges?

The flooring won’t be in for a couple weeks. Trim might be here this week bu I’ll be camping latter half of this week. I want all my transitions before I start my flooring. My first row has a sliding glass door 2 feet from the very start. And then there’s a vent in front of the door.

Stuff like that makes me want to know what sort of space the trim needs.

The proper way to do the bedroom transition would probably be to tape some carpet to the bedroom carpet, cut it to the correct length, then put a tack strip across the opening with a baby threshold.

 

[highup]

Yes, you definitely have to know there the trim is going to be before you start.
I've always used the threshold molding because the T-mold is so tall. Tricky to use it tho since it doesn't have a track. Has to be glued.
What kind of carpet? Cut pile?

 

[Tom Picciani]

Yes, you definitely have to know there the trim is going to be before you start.
I've always used the threshold molding because the T-mold is so tall. Tricky to use it tho since it doesn't have a track. Has to be glued.
What kind of carpet? Cut pile?

It’s a short pile rug. Cheap looking. Somewhere down the road, it will need to be replaced too. But since the dog typically isn’t allowed in the bedrooms when I’m at work,it’s still clean. I’m going to have enough baby threshold left over to redo the transitions when the carpet would be replaced. But next year at the earliest.

Here’s a picture of the carpet. I’m leaning towards the easy option of putting some scrap carpet under the edge and stapling it. That should raise the carpet to the same height as the Coretec.

 

[zannej]

I am very sorry to hear about Nick. Rusty sent me an e-mail to check up on me & let me know about it so I appreciate that, but it's heartbreaking. I hope his family is OK. Is there any way to send condolences to them? I know it must be a rough time for them now. I hadn't realized how long I'd been absent from the forum until I got the e-mail.

Highup, I think the only time there has been injury from a crack like the one you described on your windshield has been when someone got pulled over for said crack & the police got violent with them (there are a lot of good cops but there are a few w/ major anger issues who escalate & beat up or shoot people over minor things like cracked windshields, failure to use turn signal, etc). It really is a racket they have going on some of the tickets. There are some places in Louisiana where most of the income for the towns comes from traffic tickets. Woodworth is notorious for it- and they don't even really allow people to see a judge & hash it out in court. There has been talk recently of getting rid of the inspection stickers (they cost $10 for a year sticker & $20 for a 2-yr sticker). If your windshield cracks & police say it has to be replaced, you also have to pay to get a new sticker. If your windshield breaks, have to get a new sticker. If it curls up & falls off (which happens often in the heat here) you have to get a new sticker. Although technically its supposed to be free but they always charge. But people can generally get stickers from places that ignore cracks & other stuff so the whole point of the sticker is moot. Thus, they want to add $10 to the registration to make up for the loss of revenue from the stickers if they go through with it. Which proves that the whole point of it was for $ rather than safety.

Tom, all the progress you're making is encouraging me to get stuff done. I've been procrastinating again. I think my primary thing I need to fix right now is my phoneline (house is too much of a mess for a technician to come in & do it). I would have patched it like last time but they don't sell the jack I used anymore. Instead of the thin traditional phone wire we used before, I'm getting outdoor rated cat5e. I've studied how to properly put on a connector following USOC (got the tool & the RJ11 ends). I just need to figure out how to wire it in the phone box (will just compare the position of the old colors to the new). My best friend is going to help with that since he's a certified electrician (more on him & his situation later). He doesn't have a landline himself but he's had to fix his grandfather's landline before.

The other day I took my mother to a doctor's appointment, but chaos ensued before that. Long story short, she fell down & we had trouble getting her back on her feet, but she's OK. Just a little bruised. Appointment went well. I'm still slightly sore from the heavy lifting.

My friend hit a pot hole on my road (after coming out for a visit) & it popped a tire & busted his rack & pinion. The tires he had on were not the right size (previous owner put them on) so my mother offered to buy him a new set of tires- found some on sale at Walmart w/ road hazard. Got up early to take him to get the tires done. He also looked at Mom's computer some more & found it needs a bunch of parts replaced. They have been ordered & when they come in he'll put it together for her. He's going to make sure there are no openings that mice can get through- it comes with screens to keep out bugs, but he wants to make sure it's secure. I'm also going to put some peppermint oil inside to deter mice.

One of my cats went missing during the storms- not sure what happened to the poor thing, but she was a very sweet kitty. She loved to have her belly rubbed & was very cuddly. I miss her. We're down to 16 now. I hope we don't lose anymore anytime soon.

After I fix my phoneline, I desperately need to fix some plumbing so air stops getting in the lines. I'm trying to find out the right parts & setup. Right now the suction side of the line comes out of the holding tank with some reducing fitting that goes down from either 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" to 3/4". Then it has a crappy shutoff valve, a few inches more & it elbows up above the level of the pump, then another elbow to go parallel to the pump. It has about 3 or 4 couplings bridging it together from previous breaks. Then it elbows down then immediately elbows to the inlet side of the pump where it goes to a PVC adapter that goes from 3/4" to 1-1/4". Where the threaded PVC goes into the pump, it leaks. To stop the leak I'd need to use a stainless steel nipple with male threaded ends & then bridge to the PVC. Right now the vibrations of the pump & the heat from operation keeps ruining the threads on the pvc. Hopefully stainless steel won't leak. I wanted to use a corrugated steel hose but the mfrs said it wasn't tested for that application so they didn't recommend it. PSI might be too high on the suction side. Anyway, in addition to replacing some fittings & pipe, I'll need to bring the line down so it is level with or below the height of the intake on the pump- I was told having it higher allows air pockets to collect. I eventually want to replace the shutoff valve & add a foot valve (since I didn't see a check valve on the outlet side) but that is something the professional well guy will have to do since it involves messing with the adapter coming out of the holding tank- which requires someone climbing into the tank after it is emptied to hold one of the pieces in place for it to be threaded on. But, until then, replacing the PVC with some stainless steel should help. I hope.

I suppose I could work on my floor while waiting for parts to come in though. I really need to finish it.

 

[Tom Picciani]

It’s a short pile rug. Cheap looking. Somewhere down the road, it will need to be replaced too. But since the dog typically isn’t allowed in the bedrooms when I’m at work,it’s still clean. I’m going to have enough baby threshold left over to redo the transitions when the carpet would be replaced. But next year at the earliest.

Here’s a picture of the carpet. I’m leaning towards the easy option of putting some scrap carpet under the edge and stapling it. That should raise the carpet to the same height as the Coretec.

I think I’ll cut the carpet just clear of where the baby threshold goes and staple it temporarily. I’ll have an installer put new carpet in the bedrooms after I’m done with flooring. Then they can either put in a tack strip or double it over and tack it down flush.

 

[highup]

Do you have a link to he actual T-molding? Unless they have changed it, it's a really high arc, so raising the carpet side like you mentioned might be what you need to do. That molding doesn't like a different height on one side.
Might try something like this. Tack down a strip of Coretec on the carpet side and stopping the strip right at the edge of the material.............. and even bevel back the edge of the strip so there is a tiny bit more room for the carpet to dive into. With thin carpet like you said, you might want a 3/8" gap between the tackstrip and the t-mold.
I didn't draw in the t-mold track because............... I didn't want to.
(Hope your carpet isn't this color)

 

[highup]

If you do something like I showed and don't want the tackstrip method, just cut the pad back and fold the carpet under about an inch or so. Don't go using a 17 gauge 1/4 inch Senco stapler or the carpet guy will burn down your house.
Some 3/4 or 1 inch wire nails will suffice.

 

[Tom Picciani]

If you do something like I showed and don't want the tackstrip method, just cut the pad back and fold the carpet under about an inch or so. Don't go using a 17 gauge 1/4 inch Senco stapler or the carpet guy will burn down your house.
Some 3/4 or 1 inch wire nails will suffice.

Everything came in this morning. I just picked it up. I'm going to play with the T molding to see what it looks like. I have a lot of extra so I'll cut off 3 inches and see how it sits. My neighbor was outside and he offered to help carry the stuff up the stairs to the deck. I brought it inside from there. It's in the middle of the living room, out of the way from where we are leveling the floor. Maybe look at the trim later today.

Second coat of stain is on the baseboards. Will let it sit till next week before applying satin poly.

 

[Tom Picciani]

Here’s the bedroom door. If I tack down a half inch into the room(4-5 3/4 inch staples), the carpet might lay close enough to look good enough till I get new carpet.

In the picture with the baby threshold, they would be under my thumb and forefinger.

Or I can tack as before but put in T molding.. but I can’t center it under the stop molding.

T molding should work in kitchen. Bathroom needs a reducer strip. It has to be big and wide because the linoleum has plywood under it that was cut 3/4 inch short of the stop molding.

Might go to HD Florida that.

 

[Tom Picciani]

My bathroom floor is at least 1/4 inch higher than the laminate. I’m thinking of using an off brand of reducer from HD.

The linoleum was installed poorly.

Thoughts?

 

[highup]

If it matches good enough, not a problem. If you can't simply glue it, use a new drill bit and pre drill holes to use short finish nails. Drill 1/8 or less deep with a drill the size of the nail head, then another all the way through with a 1/16" bit. You can try a brad nailer, but sometimes it puffs up the composite at the point of entry. Shoot a few in a test piece. The track might or might not work or you have to shim it slightly.

 

[Tom Picciani]

I'm looking at every transition and realizing that if my floor was 1/4 inch higher, i.e. laying down lauan plywood, everything would be much easier. Will talk to my carpenter Tuesday to see if that's a good idea.

Would take 10 sheets at $15/ ea.

Then the bathroom is level. The kitchen is level. And even the carpet transitions, especially after I get new carpet and padding (which will probably be thicker) will all be closer to the same height.

Have to see.

 

[Floorist]

My wife must want something. Tonight we had pork chops, with homemade gravy, made from scratch biscuits and mashed potatoes.

 

[highup]

Here’s the bedroom door. If I tack down a half inch into the room(4-5 3/4 inch staples), the carpet might lay close enough to look good enough till I get new carpet.

In the picture with the baby threshold, they would be under my thumb and forefinger.

Or I can tack as before but put in T molding.. but I can’t center it under the stop molding.

T molding should work in kitchen. Bathroom needs a reducer strip. It has to be big and wide because the linoleum has plywood under it that was cut 3/4 inch short of the stop molding.

Might go to HD Florida that.

The second molding is what I've used. You can't nail it because of the hollow center.
I rough up the bottom where it will attach to the floor with some 50 grit sandpaper. Then I drill 1/8 inch holes every inch or so through the bottom of the plastic for adhesive to flow up into for a better grab. I use a polyurethane adhesive, but others might work.
The plastic is smooth and shiny so that's why-for the sandpapering. It has to be taped and weighted slightly for the adhesive to cure.
You can glue it, then leave three unglued spots. Right, left and center. When ready to set in place put dollops of clear hot glue in those unglued spots, then move quick and set it in place and hold it down got a minute or so................ That will hold it while the main adhesive sets up.

 

[highup]

I'm looking at every transition and realizing that if my floor was 1/4 inch higher, i.e. laying down lauan plywood, everything would be much easier. Will talk to my carpenter Tuesday to see if that's a good idea.

Would take 10 sheets at $15/ ea.

Then the bathroom is level. The kitchen is level. And even the carpet transitions, especially after I get new carpet and padding (which will probably be thicker) will all be closer to the same height.

Have to see.

Are we related?
I did something similar 25 years ago raising a living room and two bedrooms so the carpet would be "correct" with it's transitions to newly installed terracotta tile in the entry and hall.
Customer picked some $90 per yard Karastan wool Berber. Ramping the carpet up to the "correct" tucking height would have been a joke. I told em to do it right, it would take 5/8 particle board to get the rooms to the right height................ They said to go for it.