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- Thread starter havasu
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You talking carpeted rooms and the kitchen would receive plywood?
One thought on using plywood in the bedrooms. Have you considered what carpet you may purchase down the road? Padding thickness too. 7/16 max and thinner if you go low profile carpet. Firm pad is better then soft. Depending on the carpet type, thickness and density, you might want to mock up the bedroom doorway transition.
(See crappy sketch below)
Lets say you stop the 1/4" plywood at the doorway and leave a lip long enough to support the flatter style trim. If you did that, then you would have an option to shim up the tackstrip to any height get the best feeling, best looking transition. Maybe just 1/8 of an inch of shimming under the tackstrip would raise it enough to put the carpet at the best height. From that 1/8 inch or whatever you decide, flooring filler could be used to ramp out from your shim.
If all you needed was 1/8", you might not even want to ramp it out.
coretec and plywood left and blue is the 1/8 , 3/16, or 1/4 shim............... the purple taper of course is filler. Ramp it out 1 to 2 feet depending on thickness. If the floor is all equal from kitchen to carpet, the carpet might be higher than you like.
I didn't draw in the carpet and pad because you haven't picked it out yet.
Just saying you might want to mock up this actual scenario using a carpet scrap to see if the plywood is needed in the bedrooms. You don't need to do the filler, just butt the pad against the tackstrip and tuck the carpet in with a narrow putty knife.
(See crappy sketch below)
Lets say you stop the 1/4" plywood at the doorway and leave a lip long enough to support the flatter style trim. If you did that, then you would have an option to shim up the tackstrip to any height get the best feeling, best looking transition. Maybe just 1/8 of an inch of shimming under the tackstrip would raise it enough to put the carpet at the best height. From that 1/8 inch or whatever you decide, flooring filler could be used to ramp out from your shim.
If all you needed was 1/8", you might not even want to ramp it out.
coretec and plywood left and blue is the 1/8 , 3/16, or 1/4 shim............... the purple taper of course is filler. Ramp it out 1 to 2 feet depending on thickness. If the floor is all equal from kitchen to carpet, the carpet might be higher than you like.
I didn't draw in the carpet and pad because you haven't picked it out yet.
Just saying you might want to mock up this actual scenario using a carpet scrap to see if the plywood is needed in the bedrooms. You don't need to do the filler, just butt the pad against the tackstrip and tuck the carpet in with a narrow putty knife.
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The talk of transitions reminded me to check to see if HD ever got in the transition strips for the flooring we got. The strips are sort of hollow but they have a bit that grabs a rail at the bottom- the rail is screwed down & they click on to it. The picture shows the rail going down lower than both flooring pieces, but from the "teeth" on the gripper part, it looks like it's adjustable height somewhat. I'm trying to figure out which transition pieces to use where (if I don't just keep existing transition pieces & clean them up a bit.
PDF of the installation guide https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/bb/bbb82774-76fe-4b93-bf7b-fc4411dd5118.pdf
I have 5 doorways for the room. 1st is the kitchen which has old parquet flooring. It is thicker than the new planks but I'm not sure how high the subfloor will be once I'm done fixing stuff so the transition type will depend on finished height. I'm guessing it will either need t-molding or reducer.
2nd is to the exterior door which will have a metal threshold so I likely will not need a transition strip there
3rd is a small closet opposite the exterior door. It has very thin sheet vinyl so I'll probably use a reducer there.
4th is a bedroom next to the closet. It has carpet & I think it already had a wood transition strip that could be stained or re-finished to match better if the heights aren't too different.
5th is a bathroom that will have sheet vinyl so reducer will be needed there.
I forgot to take my meds for a few days so my thyroid hates me & I'm exhausted. Still researching best way to fix my water pump situation. I went out to shut off the water from the holding tank & I think the shutoff isn't working. Water continued to spray from the inlet to the pump. I need to find some way to at least temporarily plug it where the threaded PVC goes in.
PDF of the installation guide https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/bb/bbb82774-76fe-4b93-bf7b-fc4411dd5118.pdf
I have 5 doorways for the room. 1st is the kitchen which has old parquet flooring. It is thicker than the new planks but I'm not sure how high the subfloor will be once I'm done fixing stuff so the transition type will depend on finished height. I'm guessing it will either need t-molding or reducer.
2nd is to the exterior door which will have a metal threshold so I likely will not need a transition strip there
3rd is a small closet opposite the exterior door. It has very thin sheet vinyl so I'll probably use a reducer there.
4th is a bedroom next to the closet. It has carpet & I think it already had a wood transition strip that could be stained or re-finished to match better if the heights aren't too different.
5th is a bathroom that will have sheet vinyl so reducer will be needed there.
I forgot to take my meds for a few days so my thyroid hates me & I'm exhausted. Still researching best way to fix my water pump situation. I went out to shut off the water from the holding tank & I think the shutoff isn't working. Water continued to spray from the inlet to the pump. I need to find some way to at least temporarily plug it where the threaded PVC goes in.
Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
For my bathroom, and perhaps yours too, the Zamma (Home Depot, $21.00) multi-purpose reducer seems to fit the bill. It is mounted with a metal track and screws/adhesive. It supports a flooring difference of 1/4-5/16 inches, which matches the 8 mm thickness of Coretec stuff vs perhaps tile/linoleum w/backer flooring (1/2 inch thickness). If a 1/2 inch difference, I think the wood laminate (Pergo?) trim might work since they are 10-12 mm thick. Anything larger might need the wood flooring transitions which I've see as high as 3/4 inch.
Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
I looked more closely at the transition areas. I don't need plywood to cover the floor. At least not at this point.
As to the carpet, I didn't cut the carpet too short. I was thinking of putting the transition between the stop moldings. In fact it needs to go under the door, behind the stop molding. I have at least an inch of carpet over that in each doorway. So, I'll cut back the padding an inch behind the door and fold under the carpet and tack it with 4 staples. Stop molding will go in front of it. I'll plan on new carpet in bedrooms when the July 4th sale happens. I did pull of the seam tape, leaving a nice clean edge.
As to the carpet, I didn't cut the carpet too short. I was thinking of putting the transition between the stop moldings. In fact it needs to go under the door, behind the stop molding. I have at least an inch of carpet over that in each doorway. So, I'll cut back the padding an inch behind the door and fold under the carpet and tack it with 4 staples. Stop molding will go in front of it. I'll plan on new carpet in bedrooms when the July 4th sale happens. I did pull of the seam tape, leaving a nice clean edge.
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Picked up a free mower. They said it would not run. Dumped out the gas, new plug, air filter (old one was completely plugged) Starts on first pull.
Linwood Ks, tornado
I got paid $200 to adhere 4 pieces of some exotic wood onto the face of a TV base a customer made. I made it into a 2 day job. She's and excellent chef and besides I let the glue dry overnight before removing the clamping setup and adhering the last 2 pieces.
He didn't want nails in the wood. The guy is as methodical as I am and we think much alike. I'm the only one he trusts helping him on oddball projects. Anyway, he designed and constructed an overkill 2x4 and plywood support to hold the new 70" QLED 100 lb tv.
He made the support overkill because it has a one inch thick black granite top and a shelf in the middle for a CD player, TV box and whatever else. Heavy tv and heavy top.
He made 4 pieces of 3/4" wood to fit his design and routed a bead on the edges to 'snaz it up a bit. He wanted me to figure out how to glue them. The wood is really heavy. Because of the progressive/regressive proportions of the panels top to bottom and what was available to put clamps on, it really needed two days to do this so the upper and lower panels could set before doing the middle parts.
.........Oh did I mention that he asked me if I wanted to haul off his old 70 inch TV? He gave me the manual. Taped inside was the Wally World receipt from 2012 ....$2400
TV works fine......... he bought the new QLED because he removed a huge tree and it brightened up the room causing reflection. QLEDS don't do that as much.
How'd I do Rusty? 3 or 4 hrs actual work, 3 hours lunch and watching glue dry and $10 for gas and glue.
Wondering if the TV can help me get another van.
She's and excellent chef and besides I let the glue dry overnight before removing the clamping setup and adhering the last 2 pieces. He didn't want nails in the wood. The guy is as methodical as I am and we think much alike. I'm the only one he trusts helping him on oddball projects. Anyway, he designed and constructed an overkill 2x4 and plywood support to hold the new 70" QLED 100 lb tv.
He made the support overkill because it has a one inch thick black granite top and a shelf in the middle for a CD player, TV box and whatever else. Heavy tv and heavy top.
He made 4 pieces of 3/4" wood to fit his design and routed a bead on the edges to 'snaz it up a bit. He wanted me to figure out how to glue them. The wood is really heavy. Because of the progressive/regressive proportions of the panels top to bottom and what was available to put clamps on, it really needed two days to do this so the upper and lower panels could set before doing the middle parts.
.........Oh did I mention that he asked me if I wanted to haul off his old 70 inch TV? He gave me the manual. Taped inside was the Wally World receipt from 2012 ....$2400
TV works fine......... he bought the new QLED because he removed a huge tree and it brightened up the room causing reflection. QLEDS don't do that as much.
How'd I do Rusty? 3 or 4 hrs actual work, 3 hours lunch and watching glue dry and $10 for gas and glue.
Wondering if the TV can help me get another van.
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Tom Picciani
Well-Known Member
Looks like my camping trip is a washout. Waiting to hear from others to see if they are going.
Sell it.I got paid $200 to adhere 4 pieces of some exotic wood onto the face of a TV base a customer made. I made it into a 2 day job.
He didn't want nails in the wood. The guy is as methodical as I am and we think much alike. I'm the only one he trusts helping him on oddball projects. Anyway, he designed and constructed an overkill 2x4 and plywood support to hold the new 70" QLED 100 lb tv.
He made the support overkill because it has a one inch thick black granite top and a shelf in the middle for a CD player, TV box and whatever else. Heavy tv and heavy top.
He made 4 pieces of 3/4" wood to fit his design and routed a bead on the edges to 'snaz it up a bit. He wanted me to figure out how to glue them. The wood is really heavy. Because of the progressive/regressive proportions of the panels top to bottom and what was available to put clamps on, it really needed two days to do this so the upper and lower panels could set before doing the middle parts.
.........Oh did I mention that he asked me if I wanted to haul off his old 70 inch TV? He gave me the manual. Taped inside was the Wally World receipt from 2012 ....$2400
TV works fine......... he bought the new QLED because he removed a huge tree and it brightened up the room causing reflection. QLEDS don't do that as much.
How'd I do Rusty? 3 or 4 hrs actual work, 3 hours lunch and watching glue dry and $10 for gas and glue.
Wondering if the TV can help me get another van.
Thinking of using it in part trade if I can find a cheap van.
My "Will work for food" got written because of working for these people over the years. Get fed every time. Super neat people. Probably on my top 2 list.
Do like I did, find something similar to what you have so you can swap parts over. When my 85' Ford got ruined, I bought a '94 Ford. I have swapped a lot of stuff over.
A transmission might fix the 96 Ford van I have, but it has two cracks in the engine block that may or may not be a problem. Is it worth the risk? I wouldn't know until I installed the transmission and drove it. I know the engine runs, but it got towed home because of the transmission leak. The previous owner is an installer. He might have run it for years with those cracks and not had a problem. Block sealers fix a lot of stuff like this.
I put Bars in the '85 years ago and it never leaked again. Maybe you could trade, both your vans and the TV for another van.
Too bad you don't live close. The motor and trans in the '85 only have 123,000 miles.
Ford's inline six is supposed to be almost bullet proof and the mileage would be a definite improvement over my Chevy 350.
Beautiful and deadly.......... what a combo.
My old box truck has over 300,000 on a Ford 300 6. But gas mileage was terrible. It runs but I just use it as a storage shed.
