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@highup is how far you butt into the doorway a matter of preference? Or does it depend on door swing? Is that door swinging out and toward the higher flooring? I am trying to figure out how far I need to go into a doorway where the door swings in to the room with lower flooring. I know I need a 1" gap between the vinyl plank and the lower flooring. Can I just end the vinyl plank at the door stop (the part closer to the lower flooring)?

Tire shop in town is great when they have good workers there. They've had a few duds. Two guys that worked there messed up a lot and were fired. There was a guy named Jose who had a beef with my best friend and passed that beef along to me. Gave me attitude, was incredibly rude, and didn't check stuff like he was supposed to when I brought my vehicle in. He was the one who worked on my brakes and I think messed up the rotor or didn't diagnose that the rotor was bad. Also refused to accept that there was something wrong with my wheelbearing. I told him that my friend said it sounded like wheelbearing and he said "Then why don't you get HIM to fix it?" And he was rude about other stuff. Called me a bitch under his breath. If the owner had heard it he would have been fired on the spot. Owner knew my dad and respected him. One time when I couldn't get roadside assistance bc the guy my insurance used refused to come out and I had a flat tire, the owner sent one of his people out to me to change the tire (it was stuck and my jack fell when I was trying to remove the tire). He had to mule-kick that thing to get it off and had a really hard time with it. Got it off, took the wheel to the shop, patched the tire, put it on, and had me come to the shop to get lug nuts tightened more. Refused to let me pay until it was all done. Only charged me $15 (cost of repairing a tire with a sensor in it). Another time my brother had a flat tire at a building right across from the tire shop-- maybe 20ft away. He had left it up on a jack. Vehicle didn't come with a spare tire when he bought it. Came back next morning and the jack wasn't there-- realized there was a new tire and jack was in the pickup bed. They had stretched their tools over to it, taken the old wheel off and replaced it. At first he thought his boss had them do it-- since it went flat while he was running an errand for his boss-- but turns out they hadn't been paid and relied on him being honest and coming in to pay for the tire. They also used to fix some of our flats for free since we were in all the time- neighbors peppered our driveway with rusty screws and nails so we had a LOT of flats.

Mostly rested today other than some mild cleaning and getting food for Mom. Had to change cartridge and cannula. Messed up on the cannula a couple of times and wasted them so I'm irritated with myself. So, it comes in this plastic thing that requires tearing off a strip, removing plastic, pulling off a paper thing, removing the plastic cap, unwinding the tubing until it is near the notch, removing a little plastic sleeve from the needle without dislodging the cannula from the applicator. For the first time the stupid sleeve got stuck and pulled the whole thing off with just a little pressure. Then you have to give the tubing some slack and pull back on the applicator so it withdraws into the container, you put move the tubing to the notch, and then put the applicator over the area and depress two little spots to make it deploy. Then you lightly lift it and put your fingers on the adhesive to hold it down while you remove the applicator. You then have to tell the pump to fill the cannula. You can do an extra step (that I do) and disconnect the clip for the tubing from the cannula to put on an extra adhesive patch to hold the cannula in place-- covers more surface area and works very well. I got a 50 pack of clear ones from Amazon. Had initially been using something that was like bandaids but was much larger and uglier. Have to peel the wax paper off the adhesive patch, set it around the cannula-- just grabbing the adhesive patch it comes with, and then remove some plastic from the top. I apparently didn't unwind the 3rd cannula all the way and it aimed in the wrong direction but was already on. 2nd one I was having a braindead moment and forgot to pull the thing back before trying to deploy it and it stuck to her skin without the cannula going in. I also kept dropping stuff. TL: DR? Changing a cannula can be a pain in the ass and you can ruin the cannula if you make a mistake.

My dad was objectively a genius. Member of MENSA. Had been in ASA (Army Security Agency-- aka army intelligence) and always enjoyed learning things. He had a bachelor of science in Philosophy and a Master's degree in Invertebrate Zoology. He took philosophy since it was the fastest degree to get and he needed it to get his job in federal govt. My mom got an associate's degree in computer science-- which is funny to me because she's terrible with computers. But they were still using punch cards back then. I do not envy her having to program in COBOL. I took COBOL and it sucked so badly and I had a keyboard to type things in. I can't imagine the annoyance of having to do punch cards.

I digressed. LOL.

In some good news, my friend put in an offer on a house and the seller accepted. She said she would cover the closing costs for him and will give him credit toward the downpayment if he fixes up some things-- paint, install new electrical outlets, fix a couple sagging ceiling tiles (it had some hurricane damage in the past but roof was replaced after), and he wants to replace all of the outlets and switches along with their cover plates. He doesn't like the style of outlets used. And we can get 5 gallons of drywall primer for a decent price. I think the workshop needs some tin slapped on the roof to repair a spot.

I guess its a good thing that the last seller reneged. This one was built in 1976 and will be cheaper to fix up. It is selling for more than the other house but is worth more with the 2 acres of land.
 
No absolute rules where to start and stop a reducer in a door way.
The reducers I installed were 2" wide, so if I had been the one I stalling the floor in the bathroom, I would have the molding start here at the yellow line, about 1/8 inch back from where I did here.
I'd let the reducer flow out into the casing as I did here, instead of having it protrude back into the bathroom leaving an abrupt edge on the bathroom side.
1000004603.jpg
 
No absolute rules where to start and stop a reducer in a door way.
The reducers I installed were 2" wide, so if I had been the one I stalling the floor in the bathroom, I would have the molding start here at the yellow line, about 1/8 inch back from where I did here.
I'd let the reducer flow out into the casing as I did here, instead of having it protrude back into the bathroom leaving an abrupt edge on the bathroom side.View attachment 20329

Somebody else got the install and you got to go back and install the reducers for them?
 
Specialty Flooring Trims by Highup 👍🙇‍♂️

There’s something about that that just ain’t right. Nothing on your end but just something. I ask why didn’t the original installer install their own transitions? Was it because they didn’t have the skill to install the transitions and make them beautiful like you do? Or maybe the transitions weren’t there at the time of the original install so they couldn’t do it for that reason.
 
I am impressed with how highup did the reducers.

Meanwhile, since life has been lobbing lemons at me lately (air fryer died, microwave died, air handler sprung unfixable leak & had to be replaced, brakes in truck went out, needed new tires) and now I discovered a pipe under the kitchen sink came apart. I have no idea how it came apart this badly. I installed this almost 10yrs ago and had no problems-- although I think my friend said he disconnected and reconnected it. Somehow the pipe dropped. Not sure how or why but its been leaking badly long enough to have ruined the bottom of the cabinet and messed up the floor. Well, that parquet floor had to go anyway. I couldn't get the nut loose enough to move the pipe up (it's not connected to anything underneath (something I tried to fix but my brother forgot that I told him not to use the sink and that I'd be under the house gluing the fitting. So right after I put the glue on and was about to put the pieces together, dumbass started using the sink and hot water came out on me and ruined the cement-- never did get back under there to fix it). My brother doesn't listen to me worth crap. I couldn't turn the nut on the pipe coming up from the bottom of the cabinet. I asked my brother to try. I told him which pipe it was. What does he do? He disconnects the tailpipe coming down from the sink instead. And didn't secure it properly so now it has a slow leak.

Friend came out and fixed the other one but I didn't notice the slow leak until after he left. Will have to fix that when we replace the bottom of the cabinet.
1731637510740.png

I was trying to figure out how it got so filthy under there but realized dirty water from stuff being cleaned in the sink has been pouring out. Still no idea how the gap got that big between the pipes. Btw, oil filter wrenches are nice for grabbing those nuts.

Eventually I need to swap out that thin walled tubing going down with sch40 pvc, use a trap adapter, and slap an AAV on there. S traps are no bueno. Also need to run the pex for the cold water. No cold water hooked up currently.
 
I am impressed with how highup did the reducers.

Meanwhile, since life has been lobbing lemons at me lately (air fryer died, microwave died, air handler sprung unfixable leak & had to be replaced, brakes in truck went out, needed new tires) and now I discovered a pipe under the kitchen sink came apart. I have no idea how it came apart this badly. I installed this almost 10yrs ago and had no problems-- although I think my friend said he disconnected and reconnected it. Somehow the pipe dropped. Not sure how or why but its been leaking badly long enough to have ruined the bottom of the cabinet and messed up the floor. Well, that parquet floor had to go anyway. I couldn't get the nut loose enough to move the pipe up (it's not connected to anything underneath (something I tried to fix but my brother forgot that I told him not to use the sink and that I'd be under the house gluing the fitting. So right after I put the glue on and was about to put the pieces together, dumbass started using the sink and hot water came out on me and ruined the cement-- never did get back under there to fix it). My brother doesn't listen to me worth crap. I couldn't turn the nut on the pipe coming up from the bottom of the cabinet. I asked my brother to try. I told him which pipe it was. What does he do? He disconnects the tailpipe coming down from the sink instead. And didn't secure it properly so now it has a slow leak.

Friend came out and fixed the other one but I didn't notice the slow leak until after he left. Will have to fix that when we replace the bottom of the cabinet.
View attachment 20331
I was trying to figure out how it got so filthy under there but realized dirty water from stuff being cleaned in the sink has been pouring out. Still no idea how the gap got that big between the pipes. Btw, oil filter wrenches are nice for grabbing those nuts.

Eventually I need to swap out that thin walled tubing going down with sch40 pvc, use a trap adapter, and slap an AAV on there. S traps are no bueno. Also need to run the pex for the cold water. No cold water hooked up currently.
Don't use the sink actually means use the sink soon. 😁
 
That pipe that came loose and dropped probably needed a strap on it somewhere. Those plastic compression joints are aimed at sealing, not so much handling weight. Maybe the fitting just wasn't tight enough.
 
Specialty Flooring Trims by Highup 👍🙇‍♂️
We even do specialty end returns at Randy's Specialty Flooring Trims and Election Meddling. 😁
I secured the return using Super glue, then mixed up some JB Weld Quick and packed it down inside the cavity of the trim to make the joint solid so I can do the finish cuts without worrying about it coming apart .
The black tape shows approximately what I'll be removing.
Once the epoxy had hardened I heated the corner with a hair dryer, then while still plenty warm, I rubbed the corner with a wooden tool handle to smooth the cut edges.
Om pretty happy how it came out.
 

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A friend thought I might have a use for these. He probably paid a nickel for em at a garage sale. Package was unopened.
Don't tell me I shouldn't have opened them, reducing the value by $20,000 😁
Not sure what I'll use em for. I have two trimmers and a lot of old memories. 😉
 

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A friend thought I might have a use for these. He probably paid a nickel for em at a garage sale. Package was unopened.
Don't tell me I shouldn't have opened them, reducing the value by $20,000 😁
Not sure what I'll use em for. I have two trimmers and a lot of old memories. 😉

I’ve got some of those. They sit in an envelope in my old tool box, next to all my replacement scribe pins that I won’t ever be using as well.
 
Once the epoxy had hardened I heated the corner with a hair dryer, then while still plenty warm, I rubbed the corner with a wooden tool handle to smooth the cut edges.

Whenever I was installing prefinished base I would have to roll the corners with a steel rod to take off the sharpness. Bamboo was the sharpest but that cheap MDF base with a vinyl wrap could get pretty sharp as well.
 

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