It's a rental, so............ it's a rental.
Sometimes landlords just want the floor covered. I mean, they don't live there.
What did you do today?
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Sometimes landlords just want the floor covered. I mean, they don't live there.
That’s a beerita. It’s a margarita with a beer in it. lol. I saw someone else enjoying one and said I’ll take one of those please.
....and the result was?
It looks cool but other than that it’s just another margarita. The beer part is a waste. You drink the margarita through a straw and when that part is gone you’re left with an upside down beer in a margarita glass. I’m not drinkin the rest of that beer through a straw. So I did what any rational person would do, I pushed that one aside and ordered another one.
Why did I not do this 3 or 5 years ago?
My Duofast stapler cord started going wonky not long after I bought it, years ago. I don't wrap my cords around the tools, I just loosely coil them up.
This cord over the years has slowly turned into a 1970's looking telephone cord. It got to the point I stopped trying to fit it into the case. What a mess.
My Duofast stapler cord started going wonky not long after I bought it, years ago. I don't wrap my cords around the tools, I just loosely coil them up.
This cord over the years has slowly turned into a 1970's looking telephone cord. It got to the point I stopped trying to fit it into the case. What a mess.
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I bought a Crain tacker in the early 90's and over the years, the circuit board fried itself do I stashed the unit and bought the Duofast.
I'm glad I kept the old Crain unit. I replaced the Duofast cord with the Crain cord.
Conception to completion was under an hour including retrimming the Crain cord wires and re-tinning the ends with solder. Slam bam thank you ma'am comes to mind.
The cord is shorter and coils up quite nicely. Damn, this was too easy. Not sure what I saved in cord cost, but I like the shorter Crain cord.
The electronic circuit board in the handle is loosely shrink wrapped. I could almost swear the electronics and the white wire connector are the same in this Duofast as the old Crain tacker. (I tossed the Crain electronics long ago)
Same manufacturer?
I'm glad I kept the old Crain unit. I replaced the Duofast cord with the Crain cord.
Conception to completion was under an hour including retrimming the Crain cord wires and re-tinning the ends with solder. Slam bam thank you ma'am comes to mind.
The cord is shorter and coils up quite nicely. Damn, this was too easy. Not sure what I saved in cord cost, but I like the shorter Crain cord.
The electronic circuit board in the handle is loosely shrink wrapped. I could almost swear the electronics and the white wire connector are the same in this Duofast as the old Crain tacker. (I tossed the Crain electronics long ago)
Same manufacturer?
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MSLI, I just realized that the inside edge of that full wall doesn't line up with the outside edge of the pony wall. So, could you do the flooring so that it ends on the outside edge of the tall wall with a plank that ends right where the pony wall begins?
You could then miter cut the trim to make a right degree angle. Or do a curved edge that sort of mirrors the corner shape of the countertop above.
Meanwhile, friend installed some vinyl flooring in a neighbor's house today.
Before:
Partway through:
He has to pull the toilet up to finish installing. I need to find pics of what this bathroom looked like before but it was in bad shape.
I went to Walmart, post office, stopped by friend's house to drop something off and pet Kelebrimbor, realized we forgot some stuff from Walmart so went back, grabbed takeout from a local place, came home and played hidden object/puzzle games.
You could then miter cut the trim to make a right degree angle. Or do a curved edge that sort of mirrors the corner shape of the countertop above.
Meanwhile, friend installed some vinyl flooring in a neighbor's house today.
Before:
Partway through:
He has to pull the toilet up to finish installing. I need to find pics of what this bathroom looked like before but it was in bad shape.
I went to Walmart, post office, stopped by friend's house to drop something off and pet Kelebrimbor, realized we forgot some stuff from Walmart so went back, grabbed takeout from a local place, came home and played hidden object/puzzle games.
Nice idea Z
Oops, I forgot one image. I should have taken a photo with the old cord on the tool to show the difference. The slightly shorter and nicely coiling cord makes the stapler feel almost 1/2 it's original size. I now have a coil of cord instead of a wad of cord. Strange how different, how nice the stapler feels now.
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I can't remember if I mentioned it, but when I was driving home yesterday I came to a complete stop and there was this sort of thud and I felt the sensation like something was shifting from the back of the truck and slamming forward (like when something heavy in the pickup bed shifts). No vehicles behind me. When I released the brake there was a pop. Then I went to brake again and nothing happened for a few seconds. I pumped the brake and it worked. Tension/resistance from the brake pedal was inconsistent and it was taking more pressure to get the brakes to work. At one point while I was turning, I put the pedal to the floor and it wasn't stopping.. Pumping the brake seemed to work though. Made it home and brakes worked. Called the tire shop this morning and they said to bring it in. Apparently the front passenger brake rotor has been jammed and wouldn't full release-- explaining a lot of weirdness when I backed up, hit the brakes, etc. The brand new brake pads from August were gone. Caliper was shredded. Nut was crossthreaded. Stud was broken. On front driver side the wheelbearing was about to fall off AGAIN. So something isn't lining up properly. I don't know if the brake issue could be causing that though. Gonna be over $400 to fix the brakes, stud, and wheelbearing. Might be an additional $400 for an entire wheel hub assembly if that ends up being needed. And it was over $600 for new tires. Old ones are worn down to the wires. Scheduled tire replacement for Friday if the tires can come in that fast. But that will be at Walmart. Friend said its best to get all 5 studs replaced all at once so the others don't break. They are only $2/ea though. And tire shop is only charging $50 for labor.
Hoping new rotor and brake pads will fix things. I'd get the really good brake pads again if it wasn't such short notice. Tire shop got whatever O'Reilly's had available as they are in the same parking lot. It was smart of whoever runs that O'Reilly's to move it to that location since the tire shop employees can walk there to get parts.
Had to call my brother to pick me up from the tire shop and we popped in to Walmart to look for sugar free cough drops for Mom. No luck. Cooked for Mom when I got home and am about to take a nap.
Hoping new rotor and brake pads will fix things. I'd get the really good brake pads again if it wasn't such short notice. Tire shop got whatever O'Reilly's had available as they are in the same parking lot. It was smart of whoever runs that O'Reilly's to move it to that location since the tire shop employees can walk there to get parts.
Had to call my brother to pick me up from the tire shop and we popped in to Walmart to look for sugar free cough drops for Mom. No luck. Cooked for Mom when I got home and am about to take a nap.
Thanks. Ivey always been intrigued by the way things function..... Tearing things apart to see what's inside since I was probably..... 5?You are the master of refurbishing, repairing and improving.
I love the challenge.
I have a stairway left to do, but Friday afternoon I installed a couple of wood reducers in two bathroom doorways. The bathrooms had plywood installed, making those higher.
Odd thing was, there was over 1/16" difference in height between them.
The molding was real wood, custom colored to match the LVP. The color match is 10x better than what my camera shows.
I was told the molding needed to be made thinner. It was designed as a 1/2" reducer and I needed to make it closer to 3/8"
I used a heavy, fabric reinforced double faced tape to adhere the molding onto a 4" strip of 3/4 plywood, then ran it through my old Makita table saw to modify it.
Got lucky on the thickness on both doorways.... First attempt! Yay.
I also have two LVP stair nose to install. One needed a return and I did that Sunday so it's ready to fit when I return to do the stairs on Friday.
Fridays are the only day that works for this couple and it's 1/2 hour out of town.
I left the carpet strips at the job, but I brought the pad and tackstrip home. Now I can pre-cut the tackstrip and pad pieces so the install will go faster.
The moldings screw everything up, because I'd never personally seen nor measured this job, requiring me to bring every tool known to man to the job. A lot of work to custom fit the trims.
Odd thing was, there was over 1/16" difference in height between them.
The molding was real wood, custom colored to match the LVP. The color match is 10x better than what my camera shows.
I was told the molding needed to be made thinner. It was designed as a 1/2" reducer and I needed to make it closer to 3/8"
I used a heavy, fabric reinforced double faced tape to adhere the molding onto a 4" strip of 3/4 plywood, then ran it through my old Makita table saw to modify it.
Got lucky on the thickness on both doorways.... First attempt! Yay.
I also have two LVP stair nose to install. One needed a return and I did that Sunday so it's ready to fit when I return to do the stairs on Friday.
Fridays are the only day that works for this couple and it's 1/2 hour out of town.
I left the carpet strips at the job, but I brought the pad and tackstrip home. Now I can pre-cut the tackstrip and pad pieces so the install will go faster.
The moldings screw everything up, because I'd never personally seen nor measured this job, requiring me to bring every tool known to man to the job. A lot of work to custom fit the trims.
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My father was the same way. He used to take his toys apart. His mom also said he was able to pull his play pen apart. When I was in kindergarten he made me a little robot that had legs that moved up and down out of a coffee can and a toy train motor. He also rigged some kind of electric engine/motor to my crib to shake it to help me sleep when I was little. He wasn't as skilled at DIY as you are though.Thanks. Ivey always been intrigued by the way things function..... Tearing things apart to see what's inside since I was probably..... 5?
I love the challenge.
So tire shop only charged $50 labor for all the stuff they did and it came out to $394. They have fixed things and diagnosed things for me for free in the past. Truck is still showing error codes for some things so once I get the new tires on I'll have to take it to a dealership to find and fix the evap leak, fix the tailgate, and fix DRL. Also to get rid of the error codes for VSA and ABS. Hoping it won't be too expensive. I think the tailgate alone will be at least $200 though. Will have to talk to Mom about that. Also need to get headliner put back up-- its sagging-- replace the PU leather on arm rests. The place that fixed the hood and replaced the fender spilled paint thinner on the arm rests. But they went out of business. I actually have the replacement parts, just need to put them on-- along with the mud flaps. Paint needs to be fixed but I'm wondering if it would be cheaper to vinyl wrap some parts. LOL.
I'm loving the clean cuts, Hi!
Thanks....to my hack saw and a couple of strokes from a file.
I did cut the maximum width angles on my 1996 Makita chop saw. Using the template, I cut, or traced all my lines into the trim with a utility knife..... Pencil lines are way to fat no matter how sharp.
This was upstairs, so I didn't want to make 30 trips. I cut careful and precise.... so only 25
Thanks, it's not that hard with a template. It's hard if you don't use one. Slow and steady.
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Tire shop sounded pretty fair.
Your dad and I had different skill sets. Making mechanical motion into reality makes my brain smoke. That's more of an engineering thing. I'm more about measuring and fitting with a twist of problem solving.
.....and OCD helps in that process. or I'm just nuts.
@highup is how far you butt into the doorway a matter of preference? Or does it depend on door swing? Is that door swinging out and toward the higher flooring? I am trying to figure out how far I need to go into a doorway where the door swings in to the room with lower flooring. I know I need a 1" gap between the vinyl plank and the lower flooring. Can I just end the vinyl plank at the door stop (the part closer to the lower flooring)?
Tire shop in town is great when they have good workers there. They've had a few duds. Two guys that worked there messed up a lot and were fired. There was a guy named Jose who had a beef with my best friend and passed that beef along to me. Gave me attitude, was incredibly rude, and didn't check stuff like he was supposed to when I brought my vehicle in. He was the one who worked on my brakes and I think messed up the rotor or didn't diagnose that the rotor was bad. Also refused to accept that there was something wrong with my wheelbearing. I told him that my friend said it sounded like wheelbearing and he said "Then why don't you get HIM to fix it?" And he was rude about other stuff. Called me a bitch under his breath. If the owner had heard it he would have been fired on the spot. Owner knew my dad and respected him. One time when I couldn't get roadside assistance bc the guy my insurance used refused to come out and I had a flat tire, the owner sent one of his people out to me to change the tire (it was stuck and my jack fell when I was trying to remove the tire). He had to mule-kick that thing to get it off and had a really hard time with it. Got it off, took the wheel to the shop, patched the tire, put it on, and had me come to the shop to get lug nuts tightened more. Refused to let me pay until it was all done. Only charged me $15 (cost of repairing a tire with a sensor in it). Another time my brother had a flat tire at a building right across from the tire shop-- maybe 20ft away. He had left it up on a jack. Vehicle didn't come with a spare tire when he bought it. Came back next morning and the jack wasn't there-- realized there was a new tire and jack was in the pickup bed. They had stretched their tools over to it, taken the old wheel off and replaced it. At first he thought his boss had them do it-- since it went flat while he was running an errand for his boss-- but turns out they hadn't been paid and relied on him being honest and coming in to pay for the tire. They also used to fix some of our flats for free since we were in all the time- neighbors peppered our driveway with rusty screws and nails so we had a LOT of flats.
Mostly rested today other than some mild cleaning and getting food for Mom. Had to change cartridge and cannula. Messed up on the cannula a couple of times and wasted them so I'm irritated with myself. So, it comes in this plastic thing that requires tearing off a strip, removing plastic, pulling off a paper thing, removing the plastic cap, unwinding the tubing until it is near the notch, removing a little plastic sleeve from the needle without dislodging the cannula from the applicator. For the first time the stupid sleeve got stuck and pulled the whole thing off with just a little pressure. Then you have to give the tubing some slack and pull back on the applicator so it withdraws into the container, you put move the tubing to the notch, and then put the applicator over the area and depress two little spots to make it deploy. Then you lightly lift it and put your fingers on the adhesive to hold it down while you remove the applicator. You then have to tell the pump to fill the cannula. You can do an extra step (that I do) and disconnect the clip for the tubing from the cannula to put on an extra adhesive patch to hold the cannula in place-- covers more surface area and works very well. I got a 50 pack of clear ones from Amazon. Had initially been using something that was like bandaids but was much larger and uglier. Have to peel the wax paper off the adhesive patch, set it around the cannula-- just grabbing the adhesive patch it comes with, and then remove some plastic from the top. I apparently didn't unwind the 3rd cannula all the way and it aimed in the wrong direction but was already on. 2nd one I was having a braindead moment and forgot to pull the thing back before trying to deploy it and it stuck to her skin without the cannula going in. I also kept dropping stuff. TL: DR? Changing a cannula can be a pain in the ass and you can ruin the cannula if you make a mistake.
My dad was objectively a genius. Member of MENSA. Had been in ASA (Army Security Agency-- aka army intelligence) and always enjoyed learning things. He had a bachelor of science in Philosophy and a Master's degree in Invertebrate Zoology. He took philosophy since it was the fastest degree to get and he needed it to get his job in federal govt. My mom got an associate's degree in computer science-- which is funny to me because she's terrible with computers. But they were still using punch cards back then. I do not envy her having to program in COBOL. I took COBOL and it sucked so badly and I had a keyboard to type things in. I can't imagine the annoyance of having to do punch cards.
I digressed. LOL.
In some good news, my friend put in an offer on a house and the seller accepted. She said she would cover the closing costs for him and will give him credit toward the downpayment if he fixes up some things-- paint, install new electrical outlets, fix a couple sagging ceiling tiles (it had some hurricane damage in the past but roof was replaced after), and he wants to replace all of the outlets and switches along with their cover plates. He doesn't like the style of outlets used. And we can get 5 gallons of drywall primer for a decent price. I think the workshop needs some tin slapped on the roof to repair a spot.
I guess its a good thing that the last seller reneged. This one was built in 1976 and will be cheaper to fix up. It is selling for more than the other house but is worth more with the 2 acres of land.
Tire shop in town is great when they have good workers there. They've had a few duds. Two guys that worked there messed up a lot and were fired. There was a guy named Jose who had a beef with my best friend and passed that beef along to me. Gave me attitude, was incredibly rude, and didn't check stuff like he was supposed to when I brought my vehicle in. He was the one who worked on my brakes and I think messed up the rotor or didn't diagnose that the rotor was bad. Also refused to accept that there was something wrong with my wheelbearing. I told him that my friend said it sounded like wheelbearing and he said "Then why don't you get HIM to fix it?" And he was rude about other stuff. Called me a bitch under his breath. If the owner had heard it he would have been fired on the spot. Owner knew my dad and respected him. One time when I couldn't get roadside assistance bc the guy my insurance used refused to come out and I had a flat tire, the owner sent one of his people out to me to change the tire (it was stuck and my jack fell when I was trying to remove the tire). He had to mule-kick that thing to get it off and had a really hard time with it. Got it off, took the wheel to the shop, patched the tire, put it on, and had me come to the shop to get lug nuts tightened more. Refused to let me pay until it was all done. Only charged me $15 (cost of repairing a tire with a sensor in it). Another time my brother had a flat tire at a building right across from the tire shop-- maybe 20ft away. He had left it up on a jack. Vehicle didn't come with a spare tire when he bought it. Came back next morning and the jack wasn't there-- realized there was a new tire and jack was in the pickup bed. They had stretched their tools over to it, taken the old wheel off and replaced it. At first he thought his boss had them do it-- since it went flat while he was running an errand for his boss-- but turns out they hadn't been paid and relied on him being honest and coming in to pay for the tire. They also used to fix some of our flats for free since we were in all the time- neighbors peppered our driveway with rusty screws and nails so we had a LOT of flats.
Mostly rested today other than some mild cleaning and getting food for Mom. Had to change cartridge and cannula. Messed up on the cannula a couple of times and wasted them so I'm irritated with myself. So, it comes in this plastic thing that requires tearing off a strip, removing plastic, pulling off a paper thing, removing the plastic cap, unwinding the tubing until it is near the notch, removing a little plastic sleeve from the needle without dislodging the cannula from the applicator. For the first time the stupid sleeve got stuck and pulled the whole thing off with just a little pressure. Then you have to give the tubing some slack and pull back on the applicator so it withdraws into the container, you put move the tubing to the notch, and then put the applicator over the area and depress two little spots to make it deploy. Then you lightly lift it and put your fingers on the adhesive to hold it down while you remove the applicator. You then have to tell the pump to fill the cannula. You can do an extra step (that I do) and disconnect the clip for the tubing from the cannula to put on an extra adhesive patch to hold the cannula in place-- covers more surface area and works very well. I got a 50 pack of clear ones from Amazon. Had initially been using something that was like bandaids but was much larger and uglier. Have to peel the wax paper off the adhesive patch, set it around the cannula-- just grabbing the adhesive patch it comes with, and then remove some plastic from the top. I apparently didn't unwind the 3rd cannula all the way and it aimed in the wrong direction but was already on. 2nd one I was having a braindead moment and forgot to pull the thing back before trying to deploy it and it stuck to her skin without the cannula going in. I also kept dropping stuff. TL: DR? Changing a cannula can be a pain in the ass and you can ruin the cannula if you make a mistake.
My dad was objectively a genius. Member of MENSA. Had been in ASA (Army Security Agency-- aka army intelligence) and always enjoyed learning things. He had a bachelor of science in Philosophy and a Master's degree in Invertebrate Zoology. He took philosophy since it was the fastest degree to get and he needed it to get his job in federal govt. My mom got an associate's degree in computer science-- which is funny to me because she's terrible with computers. But they were still using punch cards back then. I do not envy her having to program in COBOL. I took COBOL and it sucked so badly and I had a keyboard to type things in. I can't imagine the annoyance of having to do punch cards.
I digressed. LOL.
In some good news, my friend put in an offer on a house and the seller accepted. She said she would cover the closing costs for him and will give him credit toward the downpayment if he fixes up some things-- paint, install new electrical outlets, fix a couple sagging ceiling tiles (it had some hurricane damage in the past but roof was replaced after), and he wants to replace all of the outlets and switches along with their cover plates. He doesn't like the style of outlets used. And we can get 5 gallons of drywall primer for a decent price. I think the workshop needs some tin slapped on the roof to repair a spot.
I guess its a good thing that the last seller reneged. This one was built in 1976 and will be cheaper to fix up. It is selling for more than the other house but is worth more with the 2 acres of land.
No absolute rules where to start and stop a reducer in a door way.
The reducers I installed were 2" wide, so if I had been the one I stalling the floor in the bathroom, I would have the molding start here at the yellow line, about 1/8 inch back from where I did here.
I'd let the reducer flow out into the casing as I did here, instead of having it protrude back into the bathroom leaving an abrupt edge on the bathroom side.
The reducers I installed were 2" wide, so if I had been the one I stalling the floor in the bathroom, I would have the molding start here at the yellow line, about 1/8 inch back from where I did here.
I'd let the reducer flow out into the casing as I did here, instead of having it protrude back into the bathroom leaving an abrupt edge on the bathroom side.
Somebody else got the install and you got to go back and install the reducers for them?
