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Transition location:

Some of the 30 year old apartments are getting new kitchens. The contractor is in charge of LVP supply + installation. I simply butt to his edge ( 1/8” gap for expansion) using T-track + insert. My question is, would you have cut and removed the LVT up to the breakfast bar and then Make the transition to the back side of the kitchen wall ?
Here's what I would do. I'd remove the appliances and the baseboards, then buy more material and install it the other direction.
I'd pay for the materials and do the labor for free, then refund $200 of the bill that I didn't give the customer.
Why? Because it's Friday, I'm in a good mood and I won the 95 million dollar Powerball that I won tomorrow. 🤣
......or, I'd just do it as CJ and Zan said. That corner sticking out onto the carpet
could be rounded/radiused a little with a pair of scissors or a utility knife and a file of required.
 

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....and the result was?

It looks cool but other than that it’s just another margarita. The beer part is a waste. You drink the margarita through a straw and when that part is gone you’re left with an upside down beer in a margarita glass. I’m not drinkin the rest of that beer through a straw. So I did what any rational person would do, I pushed that one aside and ordered another one.
 
Why did I not do this 3 or 5 years ago?
My Duofast stapler cord started going wonky not long after I bought it, years ago. I don't wrap my cords around the tools, I just loosely coil them up.
This cord over the years has slowly turned into a 1970's looking telephone cord. It got to the point I stopped trying to fit it into the case. What a mess.
 

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I bought a Crain tacker in the early 90's and over the years, the circuit board fried itself do I stashed the unit and bought the Duofast.
I'm glad I kept the old Crain unit. I replaced the Duofast cord with the Crain cord.
Conception to completion was under an hour including retrimming the Crain cord wires and re-tinning the ends with solder. Slam bam thank you ma'am comes to mind.
The cord is shorter and coils up quite nicely. Damn, this was too easy. Not sure what I saved in cord cost, but I like the shorter Crain cord.

The electronic circuit board in the handle is loosely shrink wrapped. I could almost swear the electronics and the white wire connector are the same in this Duofast as the old Crain tacker. (I tossed the Crain electronics long ago)
Same manufacturer? 🤔
 

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MSLI, I just realized that the inside edge of that full wall doesn't line up with the outside edge of the pony wall. So, could you do the flooring so that it ends on the outside edge of the tall wall with a plank that ends right where the pony wall begins?
1731371686338.png

You could then miter cut the trim to make a right degree angle. Or do a curved edge that sort of mirrors the corner shape of the countertop above.

Meanwhile, friend installed some vinyl flooring in a neighbor's house today.
Before:
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Partway through:
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He has to pull the toilet up to finish installing. I need to find pics of what this bathroom looked like before but it was in bad shape.

I went to Walmart, post office, stopped by friend's house to drop something off and pet Kelebrimbor, realized we forgot some stuff from Walmart so went back, grabbed takeout from a local place, came home and played hidden object/puzzle games.
 
Oops, I forgot one image. I should have taken a photo with the old cord on the tool to show the difference. The slightly shorter and nicely coiling cord makes the stapler feel almost 1/2 it's original size. I now have a coil of cord instead of a wad of cord. Strange how different, how nice the stapler feels now.
 

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I can't remember if I mentioned it, but when I was driving home yesterday I came to a complete stop and there was this sort of thud and I felt the sensation like something was shifting from the back of the truck and slamming forward (like when something heavy in the pickup bed shifts). No vehicles behind me. When I released the brake there was a pop. Then I went to brake again and nothing happened for a few seconds. I pumped the brake and it worked. Tension/resistance from the brake pedal was inconsistent and it was taking more pressure to get the brakes to work. At one point while I was turning, I put the pedal to the floor and it wasn't stopping.. Pumping the brake seemed to work though. Made it home and brakes worked. Called the tire shop this morning and they said to bring it in. Apparently the front passenger brake rotor has been jammed and wouldn't full release-- explaining a lot of weirdness when I backed up, hit the brakes, etc. The brand new brake pads from August were gone. Caliper was shredded. Nut was crossthreaded. Stud was broken. On front driver side the wheelbearing was about to fall off AGAIN. So something isn't lining up properly. I don't know if the brake issue could be causing that though. Gonna be over $400 to fix the brakes, stud, and wheelbearing. Might be an additional $400 for an entire wheel hub assembly if that ends up being needed. And it was over $600 for new tires. Old ones are worn down to the wires. Scheduled tire replacement for Friday if the tires can come in that fast. But that will be at Walmart. Friend said its best to get all 5 studs replaced all at once so the others don't break. They are only $2/ea though. And tire shop is only charging $50 for labor.

Hoping new rotor and brake pads will fix things. I'd get the really good brake pads again if it wasn't such short notice. Tire shop got whatever O'Reilly's had available as they are in the same parking lot. It was smart of whoever runs that O'Reilly's to move it to that location since the tire shop employees can walk there to get parts.

Had to call my brother to pick me up from the tire shop and we popped in to Walmart to look for sugar free cough drops for Mom. No luck. Cooked for Mom when I got home and am about to take a nap.
 
I have a stairway left to do, but Friday afternoon I installed a couple of wood reducers in two bathroom doorways. The bathrooms had plywood installed, making those higher.
Odd thing was, there was over 1/16" difference in height between them.
The molding was real wood, custom colored to match the LVP. The color match is 10x better than what my camera shows.
I was told the molding needed to be made thinner. It was designed as a 1/2" reducer and I needed to make it closer to 3/8"
I used a heavy, fabric reinforced double faced tape to adhere the molding onto a 4" strip of 3/4 plywood, then ran it through my old Makita table saw to modify it.
Got lucky on the thickness on both doorways.... First attempt! Yay.
I also have two LVP stair nose to install. One needed a return and I did that Sunday so it's ready to fit when I return to do the stairs on Friday.
Fridays are the only day that works for this couple and it's 1/2 hour out of town.
I left the carpet strips at the job, but I brought the pad and tackstrip home. Now I can pre-cut the tackstrip and pad pieces so the install will go faster.
The moldings screw everything up, because I'd never personally seen nor measured this job, requiring me to bring every tool known to man to the job. A lot of work to custom fit the trims.
 

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Thanks. Ivey always been intrigued by the way things function..... Tearing things apart to see what's inside since I was probably..... 5?🤔
I love the challenge.
My father was the same way. He used to take his toys apart. His mom also said he was able to pull his play pen apart. When I was in kindergarten he made me a little robot that had legs that moved up and down out of a coffee can and a toy train motor. He also rigged some kind of electric engine/motor to my crib to shake it to help me sleep when I was little. He wasn't as skilled at DIY as you are though.

So tire shop only charged $50 labor for all the stuff they did and it came out to $394. They have fixed things and diagnosed things for me for free in the past. Truck is still showing error codes for some things so once I get the new tires on I'll have to take it to a dealership to find and fix the evap leak, fix the tailgate, and fix DRL. Also to get rid of the error codes for VSA and ABS. Hoping it won't be too expensive. I think the tailgate alone will be at least $200 though. Will have to talk to Mom about that. Also need to get headliner put back up-- its sagging-- replace the PU leather on arm rests. The place that fixed the hood and replaced the fender spilled paint thinner on the arm rests. But they went out of business. I actually have the replacement parts, just need to put them on-- along with the mud flaps. Paint needs to be fixed but I'm wondering if it would be cheaper to vinyl wrap some parts. LOL.
 
I'm loving the clean cuts, Hi!
Thanks....to my hack saw and a couple of strokes from a file. 😁
I did cut the maximum width angles on my 1996 Makita chop saw. Using the template, I cut, or traced all my lines into the trim with a utility knife..... Pencil lines are way to fat no matter how sharp.
This was upstairs, so I didn't want to make 30 trips. I cut careful and precise.... so only 25 😂
Thanks, it's not that hard with a template. It's hard if you don't use one. Slow and steady.
 
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My father was the same way. He used to take his toys apart. His mom also said he was able to pull his play pen apart. When I was in kindergarten he made me a little robot that had legs that moved up and down out of a coffee can and a toy train motor. He also rigged some kind of electric engine/motor to my crib to shake it to help me sleep when I was little. He wasn't as skilled at DIY as you are though.

So tire shop only charged $50 labor for all the stuff they did and it came out to $394. They have fixed things and diagnosed things for me for free in the past. Truck is still showing error codes for some things so once I get the new tires on I'll have to take it to a dealership to find and fix the evap leak, fix the tailgate, and fix DRL. Also to get rid of the error codes for VSA and ABS. Hoping it won't be too expensive. I think the tailgate alone will be at least $200 though. Will have to talk to Mom about that. Also need to get headliner put back up-- its sagging-- replace the PU leather on arm rests. The place that fixed the hood and replaced the fender spilled paint thinner on the arm rests. But they went out of business. I actually have the replacement parts, just need to put them on-- along with the mud flaps. Paint needs to be fixed but I'm wondering if it would be cheaper to vinyl wrap some parts. LOL.
Tire shop sounded pretty fair.
Your dad and I had different skill sets. Making mechanical motion into reality makes my brain smoke. That's more of an engineering thing. I'm more about measuring and fitting with a twist of problem solving.
.....and OCD helps in that process. or I'm just nuts. 😁
 

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