What did you do today?

[Tom Picciani]

I've been watching all the video's of this guy:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-97WdoeCQenTaTyplgsoBg

Incredible number of great hints on flooring installation.

Recently he showed how to use scrap pieces of laminate to lock down the floor temporarily as you build the majority of the room. He takes some of the scrap pieces that are too short to use. He builds 4 rows away from the first wall, leaving at least one row empty nearest first wall. Then he uses some of the scraps to connect to the first row and screws them down after carefully measuring to a snapped line that he knows will be an even number of rows out. Then he just builds the floor, leaving areas that need complex cuts for last. Will try that myself.

Frustrated that my carpenter is tied up with other jobs. Still waiting to finish leveling floor. Ugg!

 

[highup]

My neighbor lent me his 10 inch table saw (old Skil model). He gave me a Kobalt 60 tooth blade which is good for hardwood but not for laminate.

I'm using coretec. I figure that both walls of the hallway and one wall of the living room will need ripping. I estimate I'll need to cut 6 boards. I head that 8mm planks are a bit tough to cut with a utility knife. Should I spring for a 60 dollar Diablo 84 tooth laminate blade from HD or just get a $6 pack or two of laminate cutting jig saw blades?

BTW, I'm still going to use the table saw to rip the red oak treads and risers for the stairs.

I also discovered that all the stain in the house, including the oak banister between the stair wells was stained with Zar Teak Natural as best I can see. The skirt boards and banister were lightly wiped to produce a slightly orange / amber look. The casing on windows, doors, and baseboards obviously have 2 coats.

My intention is to apply one light coat of the same stain to the risers and at least 2 or possibly 3 to the treads. The risers will match the skirt boards and the treads will be of the same tone but darker.

It will help to start away from the wall a board or two. Snap a chalk line where you want it, then screw down blocks of wood along that line. You will start your first row against those blocks of wood as if they are a perfectly straight wall. In long runs on a really expensive hardwood installation, I ripped a sheet of plywood into one foot strips and screwed those pieces along the chalk line. That gives you a perfectly straight wall and you can leave it intact until you get to the other side of the room.
Particle board would probably be better since it won't bow or warp like plywood sometimes does........... it depends on how narrow you rip the strips.
As far as ripping, I think any blade will work just fine. No need for a special blade for one time use. I jig saw will work just fine too, but takes a bit longer. You will use a jig saw in the hall anyway because of fitting into the doorway areas.

 

[highup]

I can't do the video Tom, but from what you describe, the guy used the same method I described, but used "scraps" to start against. Since you are just starting the job, you need to determine beforehand that you can still use the so called scraps later. I'd use full length boards and put screws along one edge. .....and close to close to the edge so you can use the boards later against a wall somewhere................ you just cut off the screw hole side. How extreme you get with this is determined on if the long wall is thirty five feet, or fourteen feet.

 

[Tom Picciani]

I can't do the video Tom, but from what you describe, the guy used the same method I described, but used "scraps" to start against. Since you are just starting the job, you need to determine beforehand that you can still use the so called scraps later. I'd use full length boards and put screws along one edge. .....and close to close to the edge so you can use the boards later against a wall somewhere................ you just cut off the screw hole side. How extreme you get with this is determined on if the long wall is thirty five feet, or fourteen feet.

I already have several scraps because I got 5 or 6 samples of COREtec. I also have some scrap 2x4 pieces if needed. The guy suggested to get an accurate measurement of plank width, put several planks temporarily together and measuring the width. I put 4 together. Got 1/16 under 36 inches. Over the entire room I’ll lose just over 5/16 inches. My last board to the kitchen leaves a 13/16 gap to the kitchen floor. That is perfect spacing for Coretec T molding.

 

[Tom Picciani]

I noticed the guy I mentioned earlier used a different method for leveling floors. He uses modified thinset. He mentioned Ardex x5. I can't get that but I can get any range of similar products. The pot life is much longer, He finds the depth he needs and used a notched trowel slightly higher than the depth of the problem. Then he screeds the stuff to a feather edge. I've read that the stuff can have a pot life from 30 minutes to 3 hours depending on the mix and the conditions. Not sure if I'll need it yet but I suspect I will.

 

[Tom Picciani]

Used a multitool 'Harbor Freight' to cut the bottoms of the door casings. All ready to go once my floor is level. The plan is to get the floor level, move all the junk from the bedrooms back into the living room, and then get carpet replaced in the bedrooms around July 4th, taking advantage of holiday sales.

 

[zannej]

I went to Lowes with my mother & brother. It took me awhile to find the stuff I needed because nothing was in the right bins. My mother had her glasses on & was able to read the markings on the pieces but I couldn't. I brought the corrugated hose with me to check the fit. I couldn't find some of the things on my list but found other things that would work ok instead. My brother built himself what looked like a gun out of PVC but sadly, I didn't get a picture. He also found a bunch of couplings & caps that he put on his fingers & put some pipes around his arms & said he was a stormtrooper. Discovered that Lowes is now checking military IDs so it's a good thing Mom was with us. She was happy because they got new riding carts that work better.

We ate the chinese buffet place called Panda. My brother was wearing a Panda T-shirt. We also stopped at Best Buy to grab an internal DVD player for my mother. After going home & taking a brief break, I brought it over to my friend's house. The CD that came with the DVD player was broken completely in half, but the software was available online. While there he mentioned that a house in town burned down-- I think it might have been the house of the former mayor's widow. My friend got a new puppy-- 5-month-old Great Dane that is rather large already. My mother bought him a dog bed & I also brought over some toilet paper (since we sometimes use their bathroom when the power is out & they get sucky toilet paper) & some paper towels.

I was wrong about all but one of the pipes having arrived already. One of the metal pipes will arrive soon but the other might not arrive until July so we will temporarily use a galvanized piece until the other one arrives. I'm hoping I didn't forget any pieces that we need. I was getting distracted by my mother & brother chattering. It was 94 degrees with a heat index of 100 which just saps the energy from me. I'm about to go to sleep because I'm exhausted.

Thanks for the info on the track, Tom. My brain is not wanting to cooperate so I can't comment on much else.

 

[highup]

I already have several scraps because I got 5 or 6 samples of COREtec. I also have some scrap 2x4 pieces if needed. The guy suggested to get an accurate measurement of plank width, put several planks temporarily together and measuring the width. I put 4 together. Got 1/16 under 36 inches. Over the entire room I’ll lose just over 5/16 inches. My last board to the kitchen leaves a 13/16 gap to the kitchen floor. That is perfect spacing for Coretec T molding.

That's not accurate enough for me, Tom. Take a plank and chop it into 4 inch strips and click them together. Now add a strip of duct tape so they don't keep falling apart as you slide them around. Stagger the sections a tiny bit so you can see where each plank starts and stops if you want to mark anywhere along the storyboard.
I usually snap a line where I want the Coretec to start, then slide this story board both directions to see where it will end up. It's really fast and deadly accurate.
Compare the width of those extra planks to one out of your box.

 

[highup]

I noticed the guy I mentioned earlier used a different method for leveling floors. He uses modified thinset. He mentioned Ardex x5. I can't get that but I can get any range of similar products. The pot life is much longer, He finds the depth he needs and used a notched trowel slightly higher than the depth of the problem. Then he screeds the stuff to a feather edge. I've read that the stuff can have a pot life from 30 minutes to 3 hours depending on the mix and the conditions. Not sure if I'll need it yet but I suspect I will.

I did that on a job once because the cost is a whole lot less. Use the Ardex as the finish coats to make it a true feather finish. It really depends on how deep the fills are. If they are 1/4 inch or less, I wouldn't use any thinset. On mine, I had a 3/8 deep fill over a wide area. I don't recall, but the area filled was probably 6' by 10' or 12'

 

[Tom Picciani]

That's not accurate enough for me, Tom. Take a plank and chop it into 4 inch strips and click them together. Now add a strip of duct tape so they don't keep falling apart as you slide them around. Stagger the sections a tiny bit so you can see where each plank starts and stops if you want to mark anywhere along the storyboard.
I usually snap a line where I want the Coretec to start, then slide this story board both directions to see where it will end up. It's really fast and deadly accurate.
Compare the width of those extra planks to one out of your box.

I was told that before. I think I'll do that tonight and get a true idea of where everything will go.

As to the thinset, we level the floor joists tomorrow afternoon. Then we'll see. I'm not using thinset if it's under 1/4 inch. But I think there's going to be a couple spots that will be 3/8 to 1/2 inch low. Will let you know.

 

[Floorist]

Grandson called me about one. He was taking out the trash and caught a woman in their yard vandalizing a car. He yelled at her, she assaulted him and threatened to bring someone back to beat him up. He called the police and then me. I beat the police there. I am pissed. She got away. Might be a good thing. I might have shot her.

A couple people asked me if he got hurt. Need to clarify. She is supposed to be around 5 5 and skinny. My grandson is only 14 but, he is 6' 260Lbs and in his 4th year of football. Probably good that he did not retaliate.

 

[zannej]

Rusty, I'm glad your grandson wasn't hurt. I don't know WTF is wrong with some people. I hope he got a good enough description that the cops can catch her.

 

[Floorist]

Rusty, I'm glad your grandson wasn't hurt. I don't know WTF is wrong with some people. I hope he got a good enough description that the cops can catch her.

Me too. They have her listed for vandalism, trespassing and assault on a minor.

 

[Tom Picciani]

That's not accurate enough for me, Tom. Take a plank and chop it into 4 inch strips and click them together. Now add a strip of duct tape so they don't keep falling apart as you slide them around. Stagger the sections a tiny bit so you can see where each plank starts and stops if you want to mark anywhere along the storyboard.
I usually snap a line where I want the Coretec to start, then slide this story board both directions to see where it will end up. It's really fast and deadly accurate.
Compare the width of those extra planks to one out of your box.

Thanks. I just cut the pieces and made an 11 piece strip. I laid it on the floor and found that if I started where I planned, I'd be short at the border of the kitchen just enough to barely touch the transition piece. In my measurements I lost another 1/2 inch putting me in no man's land so to speak. I'm pretty sure I need to start my first row 3 inches in from where I though. Going to lay out the strip tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Big thanks. I knew that was a good trick. Was thinking greedy to save that one plank I think.

 

[zannej]

Hope it turns out well for you, Tom.

I just got back from helping my best friend bury his little Yorkiepoo. She was less than 2-yrs old & what his fiance described sounded like the dog got into something toxic. When she was out of the room, my friend revealed he found a container of Hartz flea powder that she'd sprinkled on the floor. The symptoms were consistent w/ what I've seen & read about Hartz & what it does to pets. Killed the poor little dog within hours- but didn't kill the fleas. He doesn't want her to feel guilty so he's not going to tell her, but he's going to get rid of the flea powder. He claimed the carpet might have "germs" as an excuse to get carpet shampoo to clean it up & vacuum it. So he shampooed and vacuumed the whole room & is going to keep a close watch on the 2 kittens.

 

[highup]

Thanks. I just cut the pieces and made an 11 piece strip. I laid it on the floor and found that if I started where I planned, I'd be short at the border of the kitchen just enough to barely touch the transition piece. In my measurements I lost another 1/2 inch putting me in no man's land so to speak. I'm pretty sure I need to start my first row 3 inches in from where I though. Going to lay out the strip tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Big thanks. I knew that was a good trick. Was thinking greedy to save that one plank I think.

I did a room 18 by 29 with a $16 per square foot engineered wood plank. The starting wall had a 5/8 bow in it. By cutting the starter row to fit that bow, the planks essentially started with a full board. I ended up with a full plank plus a 3/8" gap on the opposite side of the room. Didn't have to cut that side, it just fit.................. because I 'wasted' one plank. What's $60 anyway
No way would that have happened if I hadn't chopped a good portion of a plank into 6 inch wide pieces to make a story board. I would have cut the first plank in half and ended up in a bad place on another ending point.
Just saying that if you have a half dozen ending points...... walls, doorway ending points for trims etc, it's possible to check them all very accurately and maybe adjust your original starting point by 1/8", 1/4" or 1/2" to make everything work.

 

[highup]

Grandson called me about one. He was taking out the trash and caught a woman in their yard vandalizing a car. He yelled at her, she assaulted him and threatened to bring someone back to beat him up. He called the police and then me. I beat the police there. I am pissed. She got away. Might be a good thing. I might have shot her.

I missed this one Rusty. From your other post looks like the kid was brought up right. Not nice to have a dead lady in the yard.

 

[Tom Picciani]

I did a room 18 by 29 with a $16 per square foot engineered wood plank. The starting wall had a 5/8 bow in it. By cutting the starter row to fit that bow, the planks essentially started with a full board. I ended up with a full plank plus a 3/8" gap on the opposite side of the room. Didn't have to cut that side, it just fit.................. because I 'wasted' one plank. What's $60 anyway
No way would that have happened if I hadn't chopped a good portion of a plank into 6 inch wide pieces to make a story board. I would have cut the first plank in half and ended up in a bad place on another ending point.
Just saying that if you have a half dozen ending points...... walls, doorway ending points for trims etc, it's possible to check them all very accurately and maybe adjust your original starting point by 1/8", 1/4" or 1/2" to make everything work.

After doing a better examination of the floor with the Story Board, I realized the border to the planks could be as much as 1/2 inch short. So looking at my measurements I started plugging in numbers to move the first plank. With 7 stop points I wanted to make sure I didn't have any 1 inch strips.

I came up with pulling the first board 3 1/2 inches from the wall. That leaves plenty of space going into the kitchen and stairs. It also gives me good spacing in hall as well as going into the bedrooms to connect to the transition strips. I'll take another look at it later today to verify my numbers.

 

[highup]

I brought up how I do it not knowing your layout. It might be more important on a large job with a dining room, living room, bedrooms and hallway, snapping one line down the hall into the living room makes measuring to many end points, not just accurate, but fast.

 

[highup]

........and if push comes to shove, a 1 1/2 inch strip on the wall behind the couch works for me.