I dunno. Still sounds like a manufacturer trying to cover their ass with their tech dept. backing them up. If we glue under the lip we’re defeating the purpose of letting the floating floor move. The stem in the picture is obviously shorter than the front part of the strip that meets the carpet for a reason. If they want us to just glue it down it should have a flat or grooved bottom to adhere to the floor and be set at the proper height to meet the floating floor…Simple… Not that short stem that is obviously designed for a track underneath it. In my humble opinion they should fess up and redesign that product…I think they realize that very few guys want to mess with a track.
Adhesive works but not on the shiny plastic alone. I don't know how well liquid nails works for plastic like that. When installing that baby threshold that cortec makes all scrub the bottom of that lip with a bastard file or some 50 grit sandpaper until it's rough as the North Sea during a winter storm. I've even gone as far as drilling 1/8 inch hole every 2 in on the underside of that lip so that the glue has something to adhere to. It may take you 5 minutes to do two doorways but I don't care. How much does it cost to come back and fix one that came loose?
I don't recall the adhesive I use it's called E6000. It works great on these cortec transitions, but you can't put big thick globs of it under the type of transitions that would require big globs of adhesive to make contact with the underside of the trim.
Mike don't you know the trick for drying latex almost instantly. Just don't do this near open flame but take a piece of the carpet that you are working with and very quickly put some rubbing alcohol on the swab and run it down the edge. Works like dry gas and instantly evaporates the water out of the latex. About as fast as you can rub it on it is dry.Ran into an aluminum threshold with rusted up screws, so we cut and tucked to the 3/8” butting gauge, But first ! used latex on the cut edge and 1/2” of backing, let her dry, then have at it. This would also work with hot glue gun thermoplastic glue. Enjoy the play by play photos
You know the old saying "if you touch it, you own it."Ps> I didn’t install the blue comm loop in the common hallway and stairs. Can you see how she’s fraying ! and that brings up a question to ponder, should I fix them, Or be like ‘ The Beatles ‘ and Let it Be ?
A couple light snips of the offending loops would be a nice thing to do.Ps> I didn’t install the blue comm loop in the common hallway and stairs. Can you see how she’s fraying ! and that brings up a question to ponder, should I fix them, Or be like ‘ The Beatles ‘ and Let it Be ?
Yes… Covers the edge of the carpet AND tack strip to eliminate any worries of wear and/or unraveling… But not as attractive in a residential setting.I like to use track with vinyl insert——-fricken hate the lvp transitions
Yup, that works well.I use pound down metal. Run the lvp a little more in the door and put 1/4" of the metal over the vinyl. I use 1/8 " masonite strips under the metal to level it and nail through that. Still floats.
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