leveling floor for laminate

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If the old foundation was out of whack because of settling or a sloppy builder, and the new foundation wall was set straight and not blended in very well by a sloppy builder, then me, the good old floor guy is not going to allow a builder to make the floor right.
It ain't purdy, but the floor feels flat as a flapjack. Wow, did I just coin a new one? :D

I think your waffling on us.
 
Hey, is my thread being hijacked? I am a DIY'er who has family coming over for Easter, I need to get my kitchen floor finished.
The help you guys have given me has been greatly appreciated and I feel like I am getting close to a solution.
Back to my floor, I think using the Henry product is a better solution then the Level Quick, I don't know why these seemingly similar products have different rules as far as luan goes, but from my understanding both products can be used to fill gapes that are 5/8 deep and both are self leveling, for whatever reason the Hendry CAN be used on luan and the level Quick cant.
Do I have this correct ?
Thank you again for all your input.
John
 
Highup, to answer your question about doorways, I have 4 in this room and two are close to that inside wall. I have posted an updated skeech. Hope it helps. Thanks

Floor.jpg
 
Hey, is my thread being hijacked? I am a DIY'er who has family coming over for Easter, I need to get my kitchen floor finished.
The help you guys have given me has been greatly appreciated and I feel like I am getting close to a solution.
Back to my floor, I think using the Henry product is a better solution then the Level Quick, I don't know why these seemingly similar products have different rules as far as luan goes, but from my understanding both products can be used to fill gapes that are 5/8 deep and both are self leveling, for whatever reason the Hendry CAN be used on luan and the level Quick cant.
Do I have this correct ?
Thank you again for all your input.
John
If the Henry product says it's OK, then I'd use that one.
So if you plan on using a self leveler, you need to follow the manufacturers instructions very carefully...... and exactly.
After mixing as they say to........... do NOT add additional water because you suspect it looks too thick.
If the manufacturer says 5 qts per bag........ then use 5 qts. ......do not add an additional cup of water because you think it need it. This is a chemical reaction you are creating and the ratio of filler and water needs to be correct........... to little bit too much water and the mixture can take a very long time to dry out.
Not enough water is obvious too. It might not flow out as well as it should.

I'd search youtube for videos of people doing this so you know more of what to expect.
Floor Maven already showed one of em. My old computer don't do videos very well, so I can't help find em for ya.

You also need a proper drill. a wimpy 12 volt cordless 3/8 drill will be overwhelmed. Get ahold of a 1/2 inch corded drill even if you have to rent one.
A flooring retailer might even rent or let you use a mixing container and the proper tools if you buy the floor leveler from them......... ask.

OK, since the leveler is relatively thin when you pour it, you should have done proper containment in advance. By this, I mean, be sure to seal the wall to floor junctions with caulking. Fill any gaps in the substrate where the material might flow into.......... like a hole in the floor for a TV cable. Pretend you are pouring water into those areas............ if it's not contained by barriers, the slow moving filler will continue flowing out into doorways or down wall crevices until the mixture begins to thicken.

You already know basically the thickest and thinnest places that the mixture will need to go.
That said, once you pour the mixture onto the floor, use a spreader of some sort to get the mixture spread out relatively even. Once it's close to where it needs to be, just let it do it's job. If mixed correctly, it will begin to flatten out without further assistance from you.
If you keep playing with it and it begins to set up, it will not self level. So just pour the filler on the floor and get it spread out as even as you can, then let it go do it's thing.
Kinda like pouring brownie mix into a pan. .......hmm, brownies sound kinda good right now.:D

Your doorways don't look like they will cause any issues.
If the self leveler fill ends up being a bit to low, you can use a regular type floor patch to do any follow up filling and blending.
Self levelers set up quite hard, so don't plan on sanding any high spots down later with a belt sander if you over fill the depressions.
 
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The Henry product just says " Wood " so I am going to assume it will be fine, So today I will be going to HD and return my bag of LevelQuick, and get the Henry. Thanks for the info about the drill I have a corded one but I believe it is a 3/8 drive. I am going to do a small area first to get a feel for it. I sure Home Depot rents the larger drill.
Because of the cold whether I am going to make sure the room is at a proper temperature, this may be a problem, because the house is old and the kitchen is probably the coldest room in the house, I may have to run a space heater to warm it up.
ok I am just rambling now, sorry. I am nursing a backache from shoveling yesterday, Dame Nemo!
Thanks Again for all your help everyone! hopefully I will be able to post a finished floor soon.
 
I have mixed smaller batches before, but the bags on the products that I have used, say to mix a full bag or even two bags at a time. The smaller the batches, the harder it is to get an accurate water/mix ratio.
I rarely use self levelers because I am so used to the regular floor patches, and my jobs are typically on the smaller side. Regular floor patches are a bit more forgiving in the water ratio department, and you can put in layer after layer easier.
Yours tho is pretty deep in that one place, so maybe a combo, and doing most of the fill with self leveler would make it easier. Whatever is left do finish up, I'd blend out with a floor patch/leveler rather than another layer of self leveler.
Read the full installation specs on the mixing and pouring. Henry has a PDF file on that.

I'd look it up, but I am runnin late.

I wish I lived closer.............. so I could help you with the snow. Did I say that? :eek:
I'll be back later tonight. (West Coast)
 
Hello,
I just came across this video, The video shows how to get a floor flatt using Door Skins, ( 1/8 sheets of veneer ) what do you think? IMHO I think this would be a great solution for me, I am really apprehensive about using product that requires the use of a trowel ! LOL
John

 
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I can't do the video, but enough skins to do the floor buildup would probably be cost prohibitive and you would have to staple or nail the livin daylights out of it to make the layers go flat (the thinner the panel, the more fasteners required)
...........and you'd still have to sand the edges smooth and you'd probably end up using some filler anyway.

Go get a bag of floor filler that's made to fix holes and do fills up to 1/2 inch deep.
Try the smaller area first and get a feel for it. Look back at the image I made of your floor layout showing a blob of filler near the corner. (it's comment number 50)
You don't need to worry about it coming out looking smooth as glass. All you want is a flat surface, and you can do it in 2 or 3 passes if the first one doesn't get it good enough. If after the first pass, it looks good, except at the edges, you can do those after the center part of the fill sets up.

Use a paint mixer in a drill, and a 5 quart plastic pail to do the mixing. A mixer like this will work good for you.
http://www.toolbarn.com/kraft-dc362.html

You will still need at least a 6" drywall knife or a concrete finish trowel to feather out the edges after you screed out the filler. Just don't over fill the area, because these fillers dry pretty hard.
Just screed on one layer to get most of the depression filled and to get a feel for what you are doing, then when it sets up, you can do a finish layer with a bit more confidence.
You can do this.
When that upper corner is done, you can do the more difficult lower area.
 
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So wait a minute. Youre telling me that a floating floor is not glued or nailed? It just floats? Nothing holding it down? No nails? No glue? Ive seen the light! (sorry, i must be in a wierd mood tonight, lol)
 
Highup, you could have drove there, did the job and got back with the time you invested trying to explain how it should be done.
 
So wait a minute. Youre telling me that a floating floor is not glued or nailed? It just floats? Nothing holding it down? No nails? No glue? Ive seen the light! (sorry, i must be in a wierd mood tonight, lol)

I don't think of it as floating............. it just lays there with no adhesive or fasteners. But a layin floor just doesn't roll off the tongue very well. ;)
 
Highup, you could have drove there, did the job and got back with the time you invested trying to explain how it should be done.

At this point I think hiring someone may be the best solution, but when I am done painting the kitchen, I am going to do it.
What would a pro cost for this job? 2-4-6 hundred ? This is the first time I do not have someone who can help me, or more like, I can help.
Okay I got to go and finish that kitchen.

Hi Up what is your favorite chocolates and whats your address? ( LOL )
Any chance your an attractive young female? ( LOL )

Have a great day guys
And thanks again.

John
 
At this point I think hiring someone may be the best solution, but when I am done painting the kitchen, I am going to do it.
What would a pro cost for this job? 2-4-6 hundred ? This is the first time I do not have someone who can help me, or more like, I can help.
Okay I got to go and finish that kitchen.

Hi Up what is your favorite chocolates and whats your address? ( LOL )
Any chance your an attractive young female? ( LOL )

Have a great day guys
And thanks again.

John
I was hopin that you were a young attractive female (damsel in distress) .............darn! :D
Costs depend on how much filler it takes and what the cost per bag is.
3 bags at $25 to $35, and add another couple hundred for labor? Depends too on if an installer is close by or if you are out in a rural area where a guy might have to drive a ways to get there.
$300 to $400 as a wild guess. Hard to tell without actually seeing it.
 
Hello All,

Do I feel like a dope, I finally put my floor down, after all of my worrying about doing this, especially with the self leveling product, I found it to be so easy, almost to easy, I mixed, poured, screed and tried to keep the dogs and cats off of it.
I ended up using LevelQuick, the biggest challenge I had was needing another bag, I ended up needed two 50 lb. bags for a 12x12 room, while the floor came out pretty nice, I will say that in hindsight, I should have planned on doing the whole floor.There are a few areas that are not perfect.
While the cost of the flooring was inexpensive, it is pretty cheep stuff ( Traffic Master ) one of you had suggested cleaning the groves and that was a life saver, I had a nice rounded file laying around and I had to use it in all the groves then clean it out with an old toothbrush, very time consuming, but I worked beautifully!
What took the longest time was cutting the jams, determining the proper placement for transitions and making the proper cuts around doorways and cabinets.
One piece of advice that I did not take and I wish I did was knee pad ( my god !, I have a whole new respect for you guys that do this everyday, my hat off to you!!! ) I did end up buying a pull bar, a little to late but it helped a lot.
All in all I am pretty happy with the way it came out, I just have to install the shoe molding and I am done.

Thank you for all your help and patience with me, but man am I sore!!!

Here are few pictures.

IMG_0746.jpg


IMG_0755.jpg
 
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