LVP cap-a-tread

[Don Monfils]

I’m looking for tips anyone can offer on installing
LVP cap- a-treads.
I have installed steps many times with hardwood,laminate, and LVP with separate stair nosings and tread planks.

I have a stair jig that I can use for this job.
I wondering if a sliding miter saw is the best tool to cut the width of the treads.
I also have a Milwaukee track saw which seems like it would work as good , if not better.

This job has 4 bottom steps that are open on one lside , and the rest are boxed steps ( stringer on both sides)
For the open steps I know I need to put a return on the backside ( which I know how to do).
What is the best type of adhesive to attach the side nosing/return to the step ?
CA glue with activator? If so which type ?
I wouldn’t want the material to shift or the glue to run.

For gluing the treads I was thinking PL Premium urethane adhesive with a few dabs of hot glue, so they don’t shift.
Also a labor price per step ( I know prices vary greatly from place to place).

Anything anyone can ofer would be appreciated!

 

[C.J.]

I use my 12” slider to cut cap-a-treads but a track saw would work just as well. I suppose it all depends on what you’re more comfortable using. For the open ended stairs you’ll prolly end up having to do a double return. No biggie, just more time. lol.

I like using super glue to bond my returns. Activator can be iffy. Are you that good to get everything lined up perfectly in 3 seconds? Short returns, prolly, but the big ones I like those few extra seconds I get by not using activator. Blue tap your LVP before you cut it and leave the blue tape on both sides. This helps because super glue will most likely squeeze up while you’re positioning the pieces. Wipe the excess off before you remove the blue tape. That way any smear is on the blue tape and not on the cap-a-tread itself.

As far as securing the cap-a-treads, I’ve used all kinds of stuff. Construction adhesive, silicone, power grab… Once you get the tread fit nicely you’ll squeeze some adhesive on the back and position the tread. Then you’ll pop a couple nails in it to hold it in place. 23 gauge pinners can go just about anywhere, heavier gauge fasteners work nicely at the back of the tread where their holes will be covered by the riser.

These things are easy once you get the hang of them. Pricing isn’t that great for them because they are so easy to install. At a minimum I would want $25 per tread and maybe $35+ for the open ended stairs. Not quite laminate stair prices but once you do these you’ll see why they pay a little less. If you can get more then I say go for it!