tongue and groove stair nose
- Thread starter drummz
- Start date
Help Support Flooring Forum:
I found my photo CD and am preparing an extreme nose job for ya. 
Not a process for the average Joe.
......But then again ...you aren't average nor are you Joe.
It's gonna be a while. I don't have a 10 minute job ahead of me.
Not a process for the average Joe.
......But then again ...you aren't average nor are you Joe.
It's gonna be a while. I don't have a 10 minute job ahead of me.
OK Boyz and girlz. Floating stair nose 101. This may take a while.
First step is to get a piece of plywood and route out the subfloor across the stair width as shown. Route out the subfloor about the same thickness as the plywood in order to achieve the proper finished base thickness for your molding/pad/ and laminate flooring dimensions.
To accommodate the padding choice, you might need to get plywood about 1/8" thicker than the amount that you remove with the router.
You will see why in another photo.
This nose is gonna move if it wants to.
What I am "simply" doing here, is making a floating plywood base upon which to adhere both the bullnose and the flooring onto.
If this section of plywood can be made to move, then so will the bullnose and the floor.
If this was for an overlapping stair nose this would be a total waste of time. I wanted a flush mounted nose that could move.
Flush mount stir noses are a lot safer than overlap moldings. (especially so with 16 stairs)
First step is to get a piece of plywood and route out the subfloor across the stair width as shown. Route out the subfloor about the same thickness as the plywood in order to achieve the proper finished base thickness for your molding/pad/ and laminate flooring dimensions.
To accommodate the padding choice, you might need to get plywood about 1/8" thicker than the amount that you remove with the router.
You will see why in another photo.
This nose is gonna move if it wants to.
What I am "simply" doing here, is making a floating plywood base upon which to adhere both the bullnose and the flooring onto.
If this section of plywood can be made to move, then so will the bullnose and the floor.
If this was for an overlapping stair nose this would be a total waste of time. I wanted a flush mounted nose that could move.
Flush mount stir noses are a lot safer than overlap moldings. (especially so with 16 stairs)
Last edited:
To get the right depth in the routed area, you need to mock up your finished pad height, then measure downward and figure in your plywood thickness.
My plywood slip joint piece looks pretty funky because of the grooves you see only on 1/2 of it. There is a reason for that.
I used a solid wood bullnose from another manufacturer and had to adjust one side of the plywood to accommodate the differences in thickness. You may have to do that too because of the differing pad thicknesses.
My plywood slip joint piece looks pretty funky because of the grooves you see only on 1/2 of it. There is a reason for that.
I used a solid wood bullnose from another manufacturer and had to adjust one side of the plywood to accommodate the differences in thickness. You may have to do that too because of the differing pad thicknesses.
Here is the slip joint and how I fastened it to the subfloor. I drilled a large hole in the plywood and used a smaller diameter screw with a fender washer to span the large hole. When the small screw is centered in the large hole, the plywood can move horizontally but not vertically.
Once the slip joint is screwed in place, the stairnose can be installed. You need to be absolutely sure that the slip joint stays centered as the nose and subsequent flooring are installed. I installed temporary supports on the lower star riser for that purpose.
Once the slip joint is screwed in place, the stairnose can be installed. You need to be absolutely sure that the slip joint stays centered as the nose and subsequent flooring are installed. I installed temporary supports on the lower star riser for that purpose.
OK, time to screw down the slip joint. Screw all the screws down. Not tight tho, just tight enough but so the plywood slip piece can still move slightly when you apply pressure against it.
Remember to keep the screw centered in the larger hole in the plywood.
Tke note that on the right and left of the stair riser, I fastened a small scrap of flooring. That scrap is a removable spacer that I used to position the stairnose molding while the glue cured. This kept both the stairnose and the plywood in the proper place and so it didn't shift around as I was installing the nose and flooring. Remember about not allowing the screws in the slip joint to move?
I removed the spacers, only after I completed the job.
Once you have that in place, you can carefully glue the stair nose piece to the slip joint.
Remember to keep the screw centered in the larger hole in the plywood.
Tke note that on the right and left of the stair riser, I fastened a small scrap of flooring. That scrap is a removable spacer that I used to position the stairnose molding while the glue cured. This kept both the stairnose and the plywood in the proper place and so it didn't shift around as I was installing the nose and flooring. Remember about not allowing the screws in the slip joint to move?
I removed the spacers, only after I completed the job.
Once you have that in place, you can carefully glue the stair nose piece to the slip joint.
![MORE Luxury Vinyl Floor Cleaner for Vinyl Plank Flooring - Ready to Use, Daily Cleaning Formula for Tile, Vinyl Surfaces [Gallon / 128oz]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/413LZHZiqCL._SL500_.jpg)
OK, all is good, so now you install the molding into the adhesive. I made sure mine was exactly where I wanted it and used blue tape onto my riser spacers/locators to keep the molding in place, then I let it set overnight. .....with instructions for the owners to stay the heck out of the room. I told em why.
Here is the last piece of flooring that was glued directly onto the slip piece. The next piece of wood was glued to the laminate flooring just as it normally is. No need for this slip joint to go 100% side to side. I began and ended the slip joint where I felt it was necessary to do so.
Here is the last piece of flooring that was glued directly onto the slip piece. The next piece of wood was glued to the laminate flooring just as it normally is. No need for this slip joint to go 100% side to side. I began and ended the slip joint where I felt it was necessary to do so.
Last edited:
Here's the finished product. Man overboard? Did I go too far? Possibly. I was happy with the result. Customer was so happy that he tossed in an extra $500 as appreciation on this $2000 job.
That was in 2010.
He likes my attention to detail so much I have been working for him doing work (unrelated to flooring) for two months now. I have also done other work for him between 2010 and now.
Makes guy feel really appreciated.
.................oh wait? this topic isn't about ME! ..................oooooooops, soorry 'bout that.
........................anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Proceed at your own risk if you have any clue whatsoever about what I just showed here.
That was in 2010.
He likes my attention to detail so much I have been working for him doing work (unrelated to flooring) for two months now. I have also done other work for him between 2010 and now.
Makes guy feel really appreciated.
.................oh wait? this topic isn't about ME! ..................oooooooops, soorry 'bout that.
........................anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Proceed at your own risk if you have any clue whatsoever about what I just showed here.
I read it twice and I still don't get it
It made perfect sense to me.
Not get why I did it? ...or not understand how it works?
The bullnose is a flush mount type and it's now part of this floating floor.
The nose and the wood flooring are both glued to that piece of plywood.
The plywood can move any direction on a horizontal plane, but not move up and down at all because of the screws.
The plywood is screwed to the subfloor with a small diameter screw, but the screw is located in the center of a larger hole in the plywood. Since the screw is not tightened "tight". the plywood can shift right, left, forwards, or backwards...............it floats along with the floor.
Go back and look at the piece of plywood with the screws and washers. See that the hole is larger than the screw........ that's the wiggle room and acts just like the gap around the perimeter of the room. Lets say the screw is tightened down until it barely makes contact with the plywood, then back it of 1/4 turn.
The inset piece of plywood also has a gap around it's perimeter so that it can move. I should have taken a better, close up of that area.
Not get why I did it? ...or not understand how it works?
The bullnose is a flush mount type and it's now part of this floating floor.
The nose and the wood flooring are both glued to that piece of plywood.
The plywood can move any direction on a horizontal plane, but not move up and down at all because of the screws.
The plywood is screwed to the subfloor with a small diameter screw, but the screw is located in the center of a larger hole in the plywood. Since the screw is not tightened "tight". the plywood can shift right, left, forwards, or backwards...............it floats along with the floor.
Go back and look at the piece of plywood with the screws and washers. See that the hole is larger than the screw........ that's the wiggle room and acts just like the gap around the perimeter of the room. Lets say the screw is tightened down until it barely makes contact with the plywood, then back it of 1/4 turn.
The inset piece of plywood also has a gap around it's perimeter so that it can move. I should have taken a better, close up of that area.
No, I understand why it works. I just don't understand why anyone would ever ask you to do it, lol.
Who asked me to?
You are not supposed to lock a floating floor in at any point............... and I never have. Probably the 4th time I have done something like this. Hey.......... I did say "man overboard" Maybe I should have used that as my signature.
I do tend to go extreme on everything I do............... and you can't stop me. (I can't stop me either)
You are not supposed to lock a floating floor in at any point............... and I never have. Probably the 4th time I have done something like this. Hey.......... I did say "man overboard" Maybe I should have used that as my signature.
I do tend to go extreme on everything I do............... and you can't stop me. (I can't stop me either)
You're a better man than I. I would have just used the overlap and been done with it especially for just a little three foot step like that.
happyhours
Well-Known Member
I'd face/surface nail it with 3 #8 finish nails nails spaced evenly apart. Set the nails and putty as needed.
Yes ........I am.
and the step is a full 4 feet wide. There are 16 steps, do this was also, in my mind a safety issue............ hence, no overlap molding.The room as I recall is about 27 by 35 and being so large, I just wanted to play it safe. I had no other work going on, so another day messing with this gave me a customer for life. He knows why I did it. He was fascinated by my attention to detail, as he also does everything way overkill.
This job was a few years ago. He has had me working steadily for over two months now because of what I did on that wood floor.
................in other words. It was worth it.
Last edited:
Nice, it looks awesome.
Yes ........I am.
The room as I recall is about 27 by 35 and being so large, I just wanted to play it safe. I had no other work going on, so another day messing with this gave me a customer for life. He knows why I did it. He was fascinated by my attention to detail, as he also does everything way overkill.
This job was a few years ago. He has had me working steadily for over two months now because of what I did on that wood floor.
................in other words. It was worth it.
I know how that is. I have picked up good customers several times by doing a free repair on something simple.
Yup, keep em happy.
I thought about this for a while and I suppose my question is why didn't they just have you install hardwood and you wouldn't have had to go through all that trouble especially since he gave you an extra $500. I don't get people sometimes. Penny smart and dollar dumb?
Well, common sense is not too common, but you do what you are paid to do. I had a couple, who are both psychologists, ask me to cover the waste hole in a bathroom in a new house so their little one wouldn't play with the stool. When I suggested they just put a lock on the door, they liked their idea better.
Similar threads
