Measuring square footage

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Usually the shops do this and square rooms are easy. To get a more difficult layout figured, I need to visualize the layout on paper, so I took a lot of measurements on this one and made a diagram. I'm a visual person, so I need to look at and study a layout, so I can wrap my brain around the project and how it will proceed later.
Here's my measurements and how I'll figure my sq foot requirements.
I made a rough measure on the areas or sections that will not have material. These come to about 67 square feet. A conservative figure.
That said, how much extra should I have them order? I recall the boxes of Core Tec are around 29 square feet.
I'm estimating 491 square feet here without subtracting the 67 square feet of cut out areas from my measuring method.
How do you guys figure the amount of additional material so I don't end up with an excessive amount of leftovers?
I'm thinking maybe just ignore the cabinet and other cutouts from my measuring method and just add 2 more boxes to the total.

 

[highup]

Did you fix me Nick?

 

[Nick]

Yes Hi, A lot of your posts have 2 or 3 of the same post ..

 

[highup]

Has it gotten worse since the change/upgrade?
I made my initial posting, then did a correction.
After the correction, I didn't see both images, so I added a reply, saying the images may not have showed up (I couldn't see them)
........so I tried to include them again, and both attempts I got a pop up that said there was an error, so after the second retry, I gave up 'cause I had to get going.
Thanks for making me look like I have some intelligence.

 

[Nick]

My Pleasure .. I have your back.. You didn't have any double posts before the change that i can remember ..

 

[highup]

It was a second post I made (my reply) It didn't look like the images appeared in my initial topic question so I typed a reply and that said there was an error in posting one of the images. I tried again and it said there was an error that time too. Oh well, thanks for lookin out for me.

 

[Nick]

Not a problem ..

 

[jrh]

I tend to measure and plan to scale then add 10% for small areas and 5% for large areas then take to full box's

 

[highup]

Thanks jrh. The Carpet One store said they do 7% so that's right in the ball park. The waste from the angled cuts is why I ask. Squares are easy.

 

[Ernesto]

I always do 10% because of potential damage during shipping. Diagonal is an extra 3%

 

[highup]

Wondering if I should caulk the entire perimeter of the bathroom.
The image in my topic starter shows the bathroom to the far right. The tub is the rectangle cutout on the lower right. The angle from the hall is the doorway.
I suppose I need to isolate that bathroom with a "T" molding because it's close to 40 feet from the toilet to the kitchen wall.
If I do that, should I caulk the entire perimeter of the bathroom like the old recommendations with Pergo and Wilsonart?

 

[Ernesto]

I usually just do the tub and then there's some vinyl peel n stick tub coving you can apply just to keep water from running under the floor. But not the entire bathroom just because the stuff is water proof unlike the old laminate floors.

 

[highup]

Thanks, I was just thinkin when water gets under the floor it doesn't come back out as quick as it got under.
The product I last used on a recent job was the thinner Coretec Pro Plus. The locking joint along the length seemed to lock together tighter than the thicker Coretec that I'm doing on this install. This installation is Coretec Plus. The seam edges on this material don't look quite as snug as in water tight. I guess I'll find out how tight the planks actually are during the actual install.
I forgot the T-mold on this floor is a thick humped arch POS. I told the home owner it's thin and flat. I'd rather not use a 'T' but 40 feet is a long ways to go without one.
Ya think the planks will slide along their length a little if they ever decide to grow and bind? I mean slide along the length as in from the tub straight out through the doorway. If the kitchen grows/expands towards the hallway, will it transmit the movement all the way to the tub? ..........or will the plank edges in the hallway just slide past each other like an earthquake fault?
I suppose I could apply a film of Crisco to one of the plank edges where I want it to slide.
The planks will go left to right, from the kitchen and down the hallway. Planks are 5 inches wide.

 

[Ernesto]

The stuff don't grow, houses shrink. I always give that stuff a tap. You'd be surprised when you think its together then a tap you will see it lock in better.

 

[highup]

Summer to winter humidity doesn't change as radically here as many places do. I'm not worried about the house moving. The house is a mile from the Pacific Ocean. I recall a US Forest Service wood humidity map of the world and summer to winter it only changes a few percentage points. 50 miles inland it was quite different.
Yes, the tapping is important, I seen what you seen. Microscopic movement, but it does move when tapped.
Maybe this drawing shows my thoughts or question better.
Would the small length of boards between the arrows act as a slip joint if push came to shove?
Made some color changes to describe this better.
I'm askin' if the kitchen, dining room and hall moves east and the bath/hall mass moves west, this 5 to 6 foot long joint would allow the two masses to move independently with ease.
Should I just leave out that ugly 'T' molding in the bath doorway?

 

[Ernesto]

I always use a T-mold when a toilet is locked down on any floating flooring. When a row is locked in somewhere and adjacent ones are not then thats when you get end joint separation. Seen it many times.

 

[highup]

OK, so I super glue the two end joints on either side of my 6 foot long "fault line"

 

[highup]

.........but this flooring is stable and "doesn't grow".
In the hall, there's a washer and dryer to assist in holding it down. There's more holding ability from the weight of those two appliances than a couple of toilet bolts.

 

[highup]

When you said the Coretec is stable and the house "shrinks", I mentioned a USFS source for humidity. This is what I was referring to. You probably already know about it.
Originally I thought I had one showing the same info but on a world wide scale.
Notice the small wood moisture variation in coastal areas, like Astoria, Oregon, San Francisco and Los Angles. 2% difference from summer to winter. Over twice that amount in AZ. 100 miles inland, in Salem, Oregon it's 6% difference.
https://research.cnr.ncsu.edu/blogs...isture-Content-of-Exterior-Wood-in-the-US.pdf

 

[Ernesto]

And they include "other flooring" they has the tendency to shrink and swell. Now you have two threads on the same subject..... waste is waste, dimensional lumber is different.