Most of the vinyls we get here are only 2mm
Looking at that link it could be 12ft wide?
Prefer sheet vinyl in wet areas as compared to tiles, less joins
Vinyls ugly out before wearing out
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Rotted subfloor, notched joist, & other problems that need repair
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Most of the vinyls we get here are only 2mm
Looking at that link it could be 12ft wide?
Prefer sheet vinyl in wet areas as compared to tiles, less joins
Vinyls ugly out before wearing out
I've been thinking about this more lately. I mistakenly thought the vinyl plank was 8" but it's 7". It should barely cover, but I might be able to get away with missing planks/gaps, etc under the washing machine and dryer. I know putting machines that can cause vibrations on top is not ideal but the mfr suggested using vibration isolation pads under the machines. With that in mind, I've decided I want to start in the southwest corner (bottom right in this pic) with the perpendicular doorway. If I go by instructions for the transition strip to leave a 1" gap (which will depend on what transition strip I end up getting) I will butt into the doorway ~2-1/2". With the door frame the first plank will need to be notched about 5-1/2" (leaving 1/4" expansion gap). I will have to cut out a hole a little larger than 2" for the ~2 drain pipe. I am also thinking of adding a square or rectangular floor drain. But that is something I will revisit later if I can find something that is not too expensive. The laundry pan I wanted to use is no longer available so I will go without it. I figure a square or rectangle will be easier to cut, but if push comes to shove I could use a round one.
This is the room layout. It's ~122"x94.5" but I'm sure walls aren't straight. I got 5 boxes (8 planks each). I need to figure out the best cutting pattern. I'm sure it will be easier to figure out once I lay it out in the room though. It's still aways off, but I wanted to get it straight in my head first to get a general idea.
This is the room layout. It's ~122"x94.5" but I'm sure walls aren't straight. I got 5 boxes (8 planks each). I need to figure out the best cutting pattern. I'm sure it will be easier to figure out once I lay it out in the room though. It's still aways off, but I wanted to get it straight in my head first to get a general idea.
I used to do a 1,2,3 or a 1,2,3,4 type pattern but anymore I just go with a random pattern because the 1,2,3,(4) type patterns seem to have a commercial look to them or the stairway to heaven look. Now if you picked a tile looking material, 1x2?, then I could see doing a subway or a 1/3, 1/4 offset. But for most wood looking products I think random is the way to go. You also use less material with a random stagger because you can utilize almost any if not all cut off pieces somewhere.
For your layout I would check to see if the 2 long walls are parallel then start on the inside wall and work towards the outside wall like you mentioned. Much easier to start off at the 4 doorways than to finish off at 4 doorways. It’s also much easier if you actually have the transition pieces prior to starting the install. Cut them and put them in place then mark where to start/ stop your flooring at. I always got pissed off when I had to make a separate return trip to install transitions and stair noses.
The drain pipe through the floor, I would put a butt joint right there and use my dividers to get a tight fit to it. Much easier to get a clean fit around it. 2” pipe I would cut a 2.5” hole. 1/4” all around then seal it up with silicone or something. Maybe even cheat it down to 2 3/8” or 2 1/4” depending on how comfortable you are with doing that.
You got this.
For your layout I would check to see if the 2 long walls are parallel then start on the inside wall and work towards the outside wall like you mentioned. Much easier to start off at the 4 doorways than to finish off at 4 doorways. It’s also much easier if you actually have the transition pieces prior to starting the install. Cut them and put them in place then mark where to start/ stop your flooring at. I always got pissed off when I had to make a separate return trip to install transitions and stair noses.
The drain pipe through the floor, I would put a butt joint right there and use my dividers to get a tight fit to it. Much easier to get a clean fit around it. 2” pipe I would cut a 2.5” hole. 1/4” all around then seal it up with silicone or something. Maybe even cheat it down to 2 3/8” or 2 1/4” depending on how comfortable you are with doing that.
You got this.
Thanks, CJ. I'm trying to remember the actual OD for a 2" pipe. I have a chart I put up on the plumbing forums...
https://www.plumbingforums.com/threads/true-sizes-for-abs-and-pvc-pipes.13196/So actual is 2.375". I want to keep it snug and maybe put some sort of flange around it at the floor level to cover any caulk. Most of the stuff in that area will be hidden behind the washing machine and dryer as well. Still trying to figure out if a floor drain is feasible. I would have to check for any slope, but I generally want to have something behind the machine so if there are leaks from the water supply lines, it will go down the drain. Which is why I was thinking of getting one of the longer rectangular drains. I'd need to figure out how to properly dump it away from the house and also make it so stuff can't crawl up into it from the outside. But that's a plumbing issue.
I do have awhile before my friend will be able to help me resume work on the reno, so hopefully Zamma will come up with something to match the mahogany pattern. I realized I was wrong about that being the one with bad reviews. It was some other brand, I think MD. There is already a wooden trim piece between the carpet and the existing floor. No transition piece from kitchen to hallway as the tenants broke it & installer didn't put one in (he didn't put in any transition pieces- but then, that wasn't on the "to do" list as we didn't know that much about flooring installations at the time). The hallway, bathroom, and laundry room all used to have the same parquet wood flooring as the kitchen but tenants absolutely destroyed it. Still undecided about what to use in the kitchen but the parquet there has been destroyed as well. My brother destroyed a great deal of it (leaving a bunch of leaking trash bags- and spilling a can of paint on the floor) and then the freezers defrosting after the hurricane did the rest.
Whatever it is will need to be pet friendly. I wonder if I can get an MSI product that is about the same thickness but maybe a different color (if it is not too expensive). Will have to be watching for a sale.
Mom just paged and wants food.
I do have awhile before my friend will be able to help me resume work on the reno, so hopefully Zamma will come up with something to match the mahogany pattern. I realized I was wrong about that being the one with bad reviews. It was some other brand, I think MD. There is already a wooden trim piece between the carpet and the existing floor. No transition piece from kitchen to hallway as the tenants broke it & installer didn't put one in (he didn't put in any transition pieces- but then, that wasn't on the "to do" list as we didn't know that much about flooring installations at the time). The hallway, bathroom, and laundry room all used to have the same parquet wood flooring as the kitchen but tenants absolutely destroyed it. Still undecided about what to use in the kitchen but the parquet there has been destroyed as well. My brother destroyed a great deal of it (leaving a bunch of leaking trash bags- and spilling a can of paint on the floor) and then the freezers defrosting after the hurricane did the rest.
Whatever it is will need to be pet friendly. I wonder if I can get an MSI product that is about the same thickness but maybe a different color (if it is not too expensive). Will have to be watching for a sale.
Mom just paged and wants food.
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I didn't get to complete my thoughts.
Looks like Zamma comes with galvanized metal track. Good thing I have a chopsaw. I'm trying to decide whether I should order a sample of the Lifeproof flooring to compare to my MSI mahogany planks or to just go ahead and get the Zamma transitions (probably a T-molding for the kitchen and a reducer for the bathroom & closet.
Lifeproof sample image:
The MSI heritage mahogany
MSI Trim:
Zamma shadow hickory trim:
Do you think it is worth getting the sample (particularly when it is not the same brand as the actual trim-- Lifeproof instead of Zamma)? I'm aware that the sample might not be fully accurate.
Looks like Zamma comes with galvanized metal track. Good thing I have a chopsaw. I'm trying to decide whether I should order a sample of the Lifeproof flooring to compare to my MSI mahogany planks or to just go ahead and get the Zamma transitions (probably a T-molding for the kitchen and a reducer for the bathroom & closet.
Lifeproof sample image:
The MSI heritage mahogany
MSI Trim:
Zamma shadow hickory trim:
Do you think it is worth getting the sample (particularly when it is not the same brand as the actual trim-- Lifeproof instead of Zamma)? I'm aware that the sample might not be fully accurate.
90% of the time that metal track gets tossed.
![MORE Luxury Vinyl Floor Cleaner for Vinyl Plank Flooring - Ready to Use, Daily Cleaning Formula for Tile, Vinyl Surfaces [Gallon / 128oz]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/413LZHZiqCL._SL500_.jpg)
They’re a lot like the metal ones used for laminate floors. Pergo style transitions. They’re just not as tall because the transitions itself is not as thick. They work great if your transitions are perfectly flat. Problem is you can’t use them if your transitions have any angle to them at all such as transitioning to a taller surface. That’s when you have to glue them down.
Ahh. Ok. That's a very good point, CJ. I'll have to make sure the transitions are flat. Although, I suppose worst case I could use some caulk or something to make it flat/level if it's not but still screw down the track carefully. Or would that be a bad idea?
I was thinking about moisture barriers. I don't have one of those sensors to see how much moisture is in the floor and I was thinking I could lay down vapor barrier directly under the flooring- which would help in case there are any spills or pet messes.
I'm still trying to pick a good floor drain (on the chance we decide to do one). I want to put it behind the washing machine near the supply hoses. I'm debating whether to do a rectangular one or square one. Don't want it to be too expensive though.
I was thinking about moisture barriers. I don't have one of those sensors to see how much moisture is in the floor and I was thinking I could lay down vapor barrier directly under the flooring- which would help in case there are any spills or pet messes.
I'm still trying to pick a good floor drain (on the chance we decide to do one). I want to put it behind the washing machine near the supply hoses. I'm debating whether to do a rectangular one or square one. Don't want it to be too expensive though.
I have a question about installing the flooring up to an exterior door. An installer form a youtube video showed how he removed the threshold to put flooring underneath it. I asked a question about more details on that and he told me you can do that with older doors but the newer ones have threshold built in.
I have one of the newer doors.
Since I have to replace the sill and my old door (and door frame), should I wait until I put the floor in to put the new door in? or should I put the new door in first (making sure it is high enough to clear the new floor)?
When I install the floor, should it go under the threshold or go flush to it? Or have a gap?
I have one of the newer doors.
Since I have to replace the sill and my old door (and door frame), should I wait until I put the floor in to put the new door in? or should I put the new door in first (making sure it is high enough to clear the new floor)?
When I install the floor, should it go under the threshold or go flush to it? Or have a gap?
I'm still thinking about the floor drain. I found an inexpensive 12" rectangular linear drain that has a stainless steel cover. https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Rectangular-Stainless-Strainer-Adjustable/dp/B0CMGF3PLN/
I'm wondering if that would work. Anyone installed vinyl plank around this sort of drain? The area it will be in will be hidden behind the washing machine (I'll be putting it near the water supply lines). Any tips or suggestions? I don't plan to slope the floor itself-- I just want to have it right where the water comes in just in case something leaks and it should go straight to the drain. I still need to figure out where the joists are.
I'm wondering if that would work. Anyone installed vinyl plank around this sort of drain? The area it will be in will be hidden behind the washing machine (I'll be putting it near the water supply lines). Any tips or suggestions? I don't plan to slope the floor itself-- I just want to have it right where the water comes in just in case something leaks and it should go straight to the drain. I still need to figure out where the joists are.
If any water gets under the floor you'll be removing the floor.
Not remembering any specifics, I'd say sheet vinyl and forget planks or any sort of click product. You'd be inviting trouble with potential water and sealing a drain .
I'd say sheet vinyl and a drain installed on top of it. You'd just want the drain flange to be sealed well.
Not remembering any specifics, I'd say sheet vinyl and forget planks or any sort of click product. You'd be inviting trouble with potential water and sealing a drain .
I'd say sheet vinyl and a drain installed on top of it. You'd just want the drain flange to be sealed well.
Ah, I already have the vinyl planks so they are getting installed. But I can skip the drain.
I'm currently trying to figure out the best pattern for installing the planks with the least amount of waste. I'm playing around in sketchup again to get a general idea.
I do plan to put a vapor barrier underneath. It's waterproof plank. Worst case if water gets under I pull the planks up, dry stuff up and put them back. That's what my friend had to do in his bathroom when his toilet overflowed.
I'm currently trying to figure out the best pattern for installing the planks with the least amount of waste. I'm playing around in sketchup again to get a general idea.
I do plan to put a vapor barrier underneath. It's waterproof plank. Worst case if water gets under I pull the planks up, dry stuff up and put them back. That's what my friend had to do in his bathroom when his toilet overflowed.
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Isn’t there plastic pans that you can place underneath your washer in case it leaks. I got one for my water heater and I’ve seen them for dishwashers.
yeah. The one I wanted to get is no longer available. It would also interfere with being able to pull the washing machine in and out of the spot and would still require a floor drain. I've never had a washing machine actually leak. Had a hose leak before but that isn't too hard to fix/replace. I am still trying to figure out the best layout with 40 planks available. I did a sketchup mockup accounting for butting in to doorways a bit and it left me with 3 full uncut planks. The planks that are other colors are cutoffs from other ones. I don't think I remembered to color all of the ones cutoff from end boards. I'm not thrilled with it but hope to improve the plan and maybe have less waste. They don't sell these planks anymore as far as I can tell.
Any suggestions for improvement?
(Bottom section where the machines will be doesn't have to be pretty). I was too lazy to cut off some of the scrap pieces in the image.
I'm just guessing, but "stair stepping" would make the most efficient use of the planks.
Start with two planks, then cut the last piece in that row.
Take the other half of the plank you cut and start the next row with it.
If you end up with a 6 inch piece.... go ahead and use it, just add a tiny dab of glue to the end joint. They typically recommend pieces no smaller than 8 to 12 inches.... so what, who's gonna know
Start with two planks, then cut the last piece in that row.
Take the other half of the plank you cut and start the next row with it.
If you end up with a 6 inch piece.... go ahead and use it, just add a tiny dab of glue to the end joint. They typically recommend pieces no smaller than 8 to 12 inches.... so what, who's gonna know
Highup, I tried the stair-stepping in the sketchup drawing and ended up with smaller than 6" pieces on the end. Like 2" pieces. I suppose I can try it again and plan to use the glue.. I have seen the trick of gluing the small pieces on to a larger piece though. What sort of glue would you recommend?
Also, how far into doorways do you usually put the planks? For the doorway to the bathroom I planned on 2.5" in with a 1" gap to the vinyl sheet because I want to use as little vinyl sheet as possible as it will be leftover vinyl from Mom's bathroom-- which is mostly rectangular with a small butt-out for the doorway. But I'm wondering about hof war into the closet I should put the vinyl planks as the door swings into the laundry room.
I will use reducing trim for the bathroom and closet. The bedroom already has a wood T transition. The exterior door will have metal threshold. I see I misspelled that in my drawing. LOL. The bathroom door and exterior door have not yet been installed. So I will use the LVP as a guide for how high to set them when I install them so they will not need to be undercut and I hope metal threshold will not stick up too far, but will not prevent the LVP from floating. The kitchen transition is undecided because I don't know what flooring we will be putting in there. I will be having to use some floor patch in spots where the wood has taken water damage. Right now the parquet flooring is destroyed. We have an active leak from the attic and I haven't been able to get my fat ass up in there to see if I can locate the source. It appears to be right underneath some ductwork so I wonder if there is condensation, but its an awful lot of water so there could be a roof leak.
Also, how far into doorways do you usually put the planks? For the doorway to the bathroom I planned on 2.5" in with a 1" gap to the vinyl sheet because I want to use as little vinyl sheet as possible as it will be leftover vinyl from Mom's bathroom-- which is mostly rectangular with a small butt-out for the doorway. But I'm wondering about hof war into the closet I should put the vinyl planks as the door swings into the laundry room.
I will use reducing trim for the bathroom and closet. The bedroom already has a wood T transition. The exterior door will have metal threshold. I see I misspelled that in my drawing. LOL. The bathroom door and exterior door have not yet been installed. So I will use the LVP as a guide for how high to set them when I install them so they will not need to be undercut and I hope metal threshold will not stick up too far, but will not prevent the LVP from floating. The kitchen transition is undecided because I don't know what flooring we will be putting in there. I will be having to use some floor patch in spots where the wood has taken water damage. Right now the parquet flooring is destroyed. We have an active leak from the attic and I haven't been able to get my fat ass up in there to see if I can locate the source. It appears to be right underneath some ductwork so I wonder if there is condensation, but its an awful lot of water so there could be a roof leak.
That narrow strip at the outside door would probably be fine. Pre-glue that 1 inch piece to the next to the last board with a small bead of superglue. Be sure that strip is flat after gluing and you may want to let it stay flat with a weight on it to keep it flat. Leave it alone for 1/2 an hour before installing it. I think close to a full board is good on the other doors like you've drawn it. I'd center the plank where the actual center of the door is.
I should have edited the image better. The narrow strip outside the door is what will be cut off. Got about a 45" or 46" span from the wall to the stub out (that has electrical in it) where the door is. I think there's about 4" width of the board after cutting off the part near the wall. I should try doing the layout again and actually remove the parts that would be cut off.
I meant to respond earlier but was not feeling well and was exhausted.
This is with the excess stuff removed so you can see the layout better. I do want to change it up a little though I think.
I meant to respond earlier but was not feeling well and was exhausted.
This is with the excess stuff removed so you can see the layout better. I do want to change it up a little though I think.
All you really need to know is where the planks start on the outside wall and where they end up on the opposite side. If you can start with nearly a full plank on the starting side, just start installing.
If there will be something, a washer/ dryer or other things covering up the sides, go ahead and use up a 4" or 5" piece there. Rules are made to be broken
If there will be something, a washer/ dryer or other things covering up the sides, go ahead and use up a 4" or 5" piece there. Rules are made to be broken
