I have my carpet binder on one of those tables that go out over a bed in the hospital. Matter of fact that where they came from. They were in the trash because the trays weren't in them. They raise and lower.
What did you do today?
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Hydraulic chair lifter, keep it simple lol. I say this because I am sitting on one right now 
Ooh, that's an idea, Daris. I wish I could remember what they are called. I looked at a photo of a table that had an adjustable piece for the sewing machine but it was $700. Interesting mechanism from what I could see. Mounted to the back of the desk and had something that went up and down. Couldn't see the controls for it & there were no better pics. But I did google it and found that the mechanism responds to a double tap and is adjustable but the cheapest price was $180.
Mark, I'd have to see if a could figure out how to make a chair lift work. That's an option too.
I saw some little scissor jack things but they only held about 6lbs and this needs to hold the weight of a 15lb sewing machine plus any pressure I might put on it when holding fabrics down/moving fabrics/pressing.
So maybe a vehicle scissor jack? Like this. I saw a DIY cabinet using one of those.
Mark, I'd have to see if a could figure out how to make a chair lift work. That's an option too.
I saw some little scissor jack things but they only held about 6lbs and this needs to hold the weight of a 15lb sewing machine plus any pressure I might put on it when holding fabrics down/moving fabrics/pressing.
So maybe a vehicle scissor jack? Like this. I saw a DIY cabinet using one of those.
My connection is so crappy it won't let me edit my post. Found this jack that comes with a ratchet.
Watched a video on how to use it and it looks like the little hand-turn part is actually easier to turn. So, I'm trying to figure out how to add a hand crank (sort of like that wooden one) to it.
Oh NOW it's letting me edit my post. LOL. My internet has been absolute garbage the past 2 days. I'm not over my limit but I keep having to reload stuff over and over.
Another option would be to get this style:
And a handle like this:
Then I can put a pin or something through the holes and fill in around the bolt or whatever I use to make it steady.
Watched a video on how to use it and it looks like the little hand-turn part is actually easier to turn. So, I'm trying to figure out how to add a hand crank (sort of like that wooden one) to it.
Oh NOW it's letting me edit my post. LOL. My internet has been absolute garbage the past 2 days. I'm not over my limit but I keep having to reload stuff over and over.
Another option would be to get this style:
And a handle like this:
Then I can put a pin or something through the holes and fill in around the bolt or whatever I use to make it steady.
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Maybe you could find one of the old time sewing machine and table combos and switch out the old sewing machine for a modern one. That way you would have a solid wood table with a decent retracting mechanism. My buddy is into collecting old record players and stuff like that and he got one of those old sewing machine and table combos for maybe $100. I was surprised because I thought for sure they would be worth more than that.
CJ, I looked for those ones and there was nothing under $300 in my area. I found some building plans for a table at Ana White's site. The table that has the car jack was built from those plans apparently. I'm thinking I want to either have the jack bumped over more toward the side or have a long extension arm of sorts. I'll have to see if I have any scrap metal stuff lying around in my yard. If I can find the right size bolt/pin to go through the hole on the scissor jack's turning point and figure out how to extend it out (sort of like a socket extension bar) to give me more distance, then I could attach something to the end like the handle I linked or a fishing rod handle, or even a bicycle pedal arm or something. I could also try it with wood. Get a big enough dowel and attach it to the jack somehow. Maybe notch it and put a bolt through, then use more bolts for a crank. I actually had something I might have been able to use but the guy who did the yardwork took it (without asking).
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The hardest part would be making it to the table would raise up and down via some sort of guides. If that part could be figured out the lift could be figured out later. Without some sort of steady guides the table would just be wobbly.
You might also find that once you get the table to the height that you want you might never lift it or lower it again. Might be better just to use some blocks to get the table at the height you want and then figure out a way to make the legs extended or positioned at that height.
Here you go, maybe something like this.
Highup, I didn't even think about the guides. That does make sense. One of the reasons I want to be able to move the table up and down is in case I change machines or I want to lift it up to have better access without having to pick it up and move it out of the slot. I know it's a lot of work.
I wish the video of the Husky table had shown more detail on how the raising/lowering mechanism worked.
From the picture I saw of the table using the jack, it looks like they have some sort of top plate on the jack to hold things steady. I can use wood and even metal stock if need be to make a good support under the jack. But I see what you mean about stabilizing now. To make sure it goes straight up instead of any side movement. I wonder if I could accomplish that with some grooves cut in a support part of the moving table and have something to fit in the grooves (sort of like old style wooden drawer slides) to guide it up evenly. I'd need to figure out the best place to put those guides. I hope this word salad is making sense. LOL.
Editing because I just realized that the position of the crank might move as the scissor jacks extend up and down. So I would probably need to have the crank under the desk anyway. I have a metal cylinder that broke off of a cooking utensil that I might be able to reinforce and use as somewhat of a bar/rod.
I'm still thinking of more ideas for the guides.
This looked interesting. A metal form with rods-- this is more like the official lifts. Not sure if I could find the metal rods. But perhaps I could use dowels and wax them? or maybe I can find smooth metal stock rods (or find something on some scrap metal somewhere).
Maybe I could take 2 aluminium angle brackets as ends/guides? Or I could cut some in to shorter pieces and have them spaced out around the platform that raises/lowers. But right at the back where the jack would be would make sense for a guide to make it go up evenly/straight.
I'm trying to visualize it and will have to draw it out at some point. So, tabletop that holds the machine on top. Underneath I'd have more wood for support that extends back more in between the angle brackets. An attachment for the jack on top. Some sort of support shelf lower down to hold the jack and maybe a groove or cavity it drops in to so it stays in place....
Does this make sense?
I wish the video of the Husky table had shown more detail on how the raising/lowering mechanism worked.
From the picture I saw of the table using the jack, it looks like they have some sort of top plate on the jack to hold things steady. I can use wood and even metal stock if need be to make a good support under the jack. But I see what you mean about stabilizing now. To make sure it goes straight up instead of any side movement. I wonder if I could accomplish that with some grooves cut in a support part of the moving table and have something to fit in the grooves (sort of like old style wooden drawer slides) to guide it up evenly. I'd need to figure out the best place to put those guides. I hope this word salad is making sense. LOL.
Editing because I just realized that the position of the crank might move as the scissor jacks extend up and down. So I would probably need to have the crank under the desk anyway. I have a metal cylinder that broke off of a cooking utensil that I might be able to reinforce and use as somewhat of a bar/rod.
I'm still thinking of more ideas for the guides.
This looked interesting. A metal form with rods-- this is more like the official lifts. Not sure if I could find the metal rods. But perhaps I could use dowels and wax them? or maybe I can find smooth metal stock rods (or find something on some scrap metal somewhere).
Maybe I could take 2 aluminium angle brackets as ends/guides? Or I could cut some in to shorter pieces and have them spaced out around the platform that raises/lowers. But right at the back where the jack would be would make sense for a guide to make it go up evenly/straight.
I'm trying to visualize it and will have to draw it out at some point. So, tabletop that holds the machine on top. Underneath I'd have more wood for support that extends back more in between the angle brackets. An attachment for the jack on top. Some sort of support shelf lower down to hold the jack and maybe a groove or cavity it drops in to so it stays in place....
Does this make sense?
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MikeAntonetti
Well-Known Member
On my off time I constantly check two habitats to repurpose stuff or add to my stuff.
Mike, that sounds like a good plan. I need to go through my workshop and organize it. Also need to organize my carport.
I realized I put brackets instead of stock. I plan to use aluminium angle stock. Basically long L shaped pieces.
I realized I put brackets instead of stock. I plan to use aluminium angle stock. Basically long L shaped pieces.
Don't you love making things that no one thinks is possible? I build parts all the time for things.
I think about things in my head but I need more practice in actual execution. LOL. I want to make things. I need to learn how to weld one of these days. I need to get over my issue with heat/fire. I don't like it.
Anyway, I thought about it more. I could get a 1/4" aluminium U channel or two to put on the back or sides of the lower side of the platform and create a key out of wood for it to fit over. It would extend down as far as I want the machine to be able to lower and I'd have a stopblock at the end.
Alternatively, I could drill two holes in the underside of the platform (I would have part of the underside sticking out more than the platform at the back and sides to act as stops and the holes could be either sides or back). I could then run two rods up to guide the platform as it moves up and down. I saw some 1/8" cold rolled steel rods that are smooth. 3' long & even cut in half with the chopsaw they should be long enough to raise and lower the machine as much as I want.
I could put metal washers with large enough inside diameter to sort of reinforce the wood holes (or see if I can find a hollow metal tube the right size to put inside). I know there is a term for something like that but I can't remember. I could even use both the U-channel and rods and have that in the center. Hell, I could probably even find a bracket that is U-shaped and countersink the screws so they are out of the way to use as a center stabilizer sliding up a waxed key. I would go with a metal key but couldn't find the right size and it would be difficult to drill through-- although maybe I could find something hollow.
I don't believe the sewing machine is taller than 12". I could even leave a little lip. I'm thinking it would be cool if I could lower the machine below table level and then put a leaf on top for when we just want to measure and cut.
I wonder if I have any use for the steel threaded rods...
Would waxing the rods help to improve movement? I thought about using grease but then realized it might get on fabric accidentally.
Anyway, I thought about it more. I could get a 1/4" aluminium U channel or two to put on the back or sides of the lower side of the platform and create a key out of wood for it to fit over. It would extend down as far as I want the machine to be able to lower and I'd have a stopblock at the end.
Alternatively, I could drill two holes in the underside of the platform (I would have part of the underside sticking out more than the platform at the back and sides to act as stops and the holes could be either sides or back). I could then run two rods up to guide the platform as it moves up and down. I saw some 1/8" cold rolled steel rods that are smooth. 3' long & even cut in half with the chopsaw they should be long enough to raise and lower the machine as much as I want.
I could put metal washers with large enough inside diameter to sort of reinforce the wood holes (or see if I can find a hollow metal tube the right size to put inside). I know there is a term for something like that but I can't remember. I could even use both the U-channel and rods and have that in the center. Hell, I could probably even find a bracket that is U-shaped and countersink the screws so they are out of the way to use as a center stabilizer sliding up a waxed key. I would go with a metal key but couldn't find the right size and it would be difficult to drill through-- although maybe I could find something hollow.
I don't believe the sewing machine is taller than 12". I could even leave a little lip. I'm thinking it would be cool if I could lower the machine below table level and then put a leaf on top for when we just want to measure and cut.
I wonder if I have any use for the steel threaded rods...
Would waxing the rods help to improve movement? I thought about using grease but then realized it might get on fabric accidentally.
Bar soap will lubricate and wash out
I stopped there today and did good. About a Roberts looped pile cutter that looks like brand new for eight bucks.
They also had a 6-in long piece of railroad iron for five bucks. It has a smaller, 2 in wide top surface, not the big stuff that you see on the railroad tracks. It was neatly cut on one side at what looks to be a 90° angle. It will make a really neat, small anvil.
They also had this dolly for automotive work it's called a toe dolly. Another five bucks. It's not like Id use it for a lot of body work, but it could be put in a vice so you can pound or round a curved edge on a piece of metal.
Last week for five bucks I got a Vaughn 24 oz ball pein hammer. The handle has a crack in it but I think I can epoxy that. It's an older hammer and looks a lot better made than a $28 hammers that Vaughn makes now..... For that price most likely the new ones are from China.
I love my habitat.
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My thinking that some kind of a pre built device such as darris said for the one I showed would end up being cheaper in a long run. Is the easiest for someone else to design something like that then do it yourself. I don't think I'd try to do something like that one myself.
If you used angle or channel aluminum as part of the up and down guide, you wouldn't want aluminum as the second part of the guide because it would gaul very fast. You would need anodized aluminum which is considerably harder and more durable.
MikeAntonetti
Well-Known Member
Didn’t know category in my brain - Anodized Aluminum is harder, I just assumed it meant a way for it to be color stained. I too am a non welder, a serious flaw of my needs.
Take a couple pieces of aluminum bar or angle that you get from the hardware store and rub them against each other hard. No, don't do it with the aluminum in the store. You can ruin your own stuff not theirs.
Try that with some anodized aluminum, such as a towel bar.
You'll notice that router lift mounting surfaces are anodized. Some are aluminum colored and there are gold red and blue that look real pretty.
Plain old aluminum sheets will scratch much easier so that's why they are anodized. It's not just to make them pretty.
I'm not sure of this but I think a lot of parts, maybe even gun parts that slide against each other are made of slightly different metals because metals of the exact same hardness can gaul when they rub against themselves. I think if you rubbed anodized aluminum against bare hardware store aluminum, the two surfaces would hold up much better.
The softer aluminum would definitely wear out faster, but I don't think it would gaul.
I think that I will have to do me a test.
MikeAntonetti
Well-Known Member
I know rub aluminum against things and it causes black stains like tile etc. then extremely difficult to remove, I’ve used cooktop cleaner that has worked. Maybe because the micro abrasives.
by the time I’m all over I’ll have acquired a fair bit of knowledge, I asked someone why the f I don’t have a masters degree when someone I know didn’t comprehend that no, you didn’t get to my house for free in your Prius 25 miles away, fuel cost saying zero means you didn’t enter the cost per gallon.
the person I asked why I didn’t have a masters degree said “it’s not too late” mine, yeah for the afterlife, no reply.
by the time I’m all over I’ll have acquired a fair bit of knowledge, I asked someone why the f I don’t have a masters degree when someone I know didn’t comprehend that no, you didn’t get to my house for free in your Prius 25 miles away, fuel cost saying zero means you didn’t enter the cost per gallon.
the person I asked why I didn’t have a masters degree said “it’s not too late” mine, yeah for the afterlife, no reply.
You do have a masters degree, Mike. Maybe even a PhD in floor covering. Just because you didn’t sit in a classroom doesn’t mean you didn’t earn and learn all that knowledge in your head.
