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I just mentioned the house that I was measuring yesterday afternoon. I saw something that I've never seen before.
Everywhere there was a door, this is how the edge was finished off.
 

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I saw it a lot on multiple story multi family projects. Sheet rockers? The tubs were already filled with water to set them so what’s a little piss and if you’re gonna piss in the tub instead of walking down 5 flights of stairs to the porta potty, why not crap in the tub as well.
 
That reminds me of a project I was working on 10 years ago. I was the Foreman for flooring and we had weekly trade meeting that the foreman from each trade attended. Usually just BS ing and planning for the next week.
One time I walked into a bunch of frowning and pissed off faces. Then they all layed into me about one of the kids we had that was doing the sheet vinyl in utility rooms in each unit. Turns out he was using the utility hatch as a bathroom.
Well one time a HVAC guy was down there and the kid starts pissing down there! Dude flipped out (understandable) and run the boy off.

Next day at the meeting boy did I get an ear full. Never been so embarrassed in my life. Nobody should have to deal with someone's piss/**** to do their job. I **** canned that kid after the meeting.

Worst part is that it was such a secluded area he would have been fine opening the back door and pissing in the back yards.
 
My friend caught some domestic violence from his (now) ex because she had a dream and woke up pissed off. I've never understood being mad at people over a dream. I may wake up cranky after a bad dream, but I know it is just a dream and I don't get mad at people.

Float lever is no longer jamming after my friend followed my idea somewhat. Modification was to pry the wooden block (that the switch is on) off the lid, put one of the mounting brackets on the bottom, and mount it to the pipe the original switch was on, and voila. The rod is straight and no issues thus far. I want to reinforce it a bit better and make some sort of cover because the default cover won't fit with the way the wires are run. Its possible if we moved the wires that go to the jet pump to a junction box instead of to the switch it might fit, but getting a cheap plastic thing to put over and cutting it to fit might work in the meantime. Friend also took the TRIA off the old satellite dish so we can send it back to Viasat. I got everything boxed up. Just need to go to the UPS store to drop it off.

Also helped my friend install his new deadbolt. His ex was super pissed about it. He thinks she lost her key (bc she is always losing stuff) but I think she kept it and pretended to lose it so she could let herself in- because I've found her in the house after she "lost" the key and he wasn't home and hadn't let her in. He told her from now on if he is going to allow her in, he'll give her one use codes. My brother and I have our own codes and so does our friend. He hid one of the keys where the ex can't find it (up high where she can't reach) and put the other on his keyring.

Puppies are outside playing and having fun. I got them some puppy chow while waiting to find a home for them. Fippy was angry that they came into my room last night and tried to climb on the bed. He was growling like crazy. He's a crabby little dog.

Picked up mail and got some groceries. My brother went along to help. He also gave me a big hug and unintentionally made some adjustments to my spine. LOL. Ate lunch and am about to nap. Food coma. LOL.
 
I napped and had a dream that I was inside a video game of some sort. Dodging fire elementals and climbing a mountain but then it turned in to a curtain and I climbed down and saw my mother. Then Mom paged me on the intercom and woke me up. She wanted food. Got up, cooked for her and cut up her chicken for her (she now insists that I cut up her meat and potatoes for her so she doesn't have to do it herself).
My brother started on removing cardboard boxes from the room but as soon as I turned up he went outside, opened the window and had me picking everything up and handing it to him so he could toss it nearby. I was doing more of the work and bending but my kidney stones got me & I was in the middle of food prep (going back and forth). He got a bit irritated & then my back gave out on me. He'd piled stuff on the couch so I had nowhere to sit. Found about 3 unopened boxes of HVAC filters, a blender, two induction cooktops (single ones), a coffee machine, & other random stuff still in boxes.
I was only able to help for about 10min before I had to go take naproxyn and lie down. He mostly just stood there waiting for me to do all the work. He stopped even trying to do anything once I wasn't doing the work for him.
Float lever has not jammed yet still.
 
Went back down to continue work on a floor repair/Marmoleum install. This is the bathroom with rough T&G cedar on the walls.
The old vinyl flooring was installed on the walls sorta like self cove, but without the self...... It has Coke cap, but the walls were done separately, after the fact.
The bathroom had rot and I needed to fix that to prepare the floor for quarter inch underlayment and then the Marmoleum.
Because the walls are done in rough tongue and groove cedar, the old vinyl flooring that was adhered to the walls wasn't really stuck anymore. I mean, these are cedar walls and the house is a couple hundred feet from the Pacific Ocean. The expansion and contraction of this Beach retreat cause the corners to fail and I think the cedar caused the adhesive to fail.
One part of the cove has a double outside corner. I told the homeowner I was thinking of cutting off the cedar 4 inches high at the wall with the two outside corners, and replacing it with plywood which would be much more stable and keep the corners of the marmoleum from coming loose or shrinking apart like it did before. This would keep the corner pieces from separating like the original installation did because of the expansion uncontraction of the tongue under the cedar walls.
Here's the original vinyl non-self coved, base sorta thing.
 

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After doing some repairs to the floor and the walls under the heater, including repairing a small section of 2x4 wall plate, then removing one and a half inches off the bottom of the king and jack studs, that had rot issues, I'm finally at the point where I can start working on the walls.
This is where I wanted to be a week ago but I haven't been down to the job much because I've been doing some measuring for the shop.
This is a beach home, not a primary residence so that helps a lot.
In the last image, instead of having one 2x4 wall plate there's a second one on top of the first one. The king and jack studs have varying degrees of rot so I trimmed off an inch and a half from those studs with my Fein Multimaster and add a second 2x4 to fill in the gap.
There was zero weight bearing down on the rotten wood that I removed so cutting off the king studs didn't cause the house to collapse..... There was actually a gap between the king studs in the rotten wooden plate. No harm done there.
 

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Without removing the cedar on the walls, which would include removing the heater and the trim around the window the only way to fasten the king and jack studs was from under the house.
Once I got the plywood in place and the two 2x4s inserted under the studs, I crawled underneath the house with my impact wrench, and a couple of drill bits and ran some 6-in long timber screws at a slight angle up through the plywood and into the studs. Any movement that might ever occur, is going to any weight bearing down on the 2x4s.
(Not gonna happen anyway)
With four timber screws going up into the center of each 2x4 they're not going to slide around a whole lot, even if the wind blows really hard. 😉
 

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Here's where I am today.
Floor repair done, so now it's removing the rest of the code cap metal, replacing the cedar with plywood, and then installing some underlayment.
The water staining on the cedar was water wicked up most likely from some previous flooding in the room. With plywood on the first 4 inches of the wall that's not going to happen again.
Though the staining is there, for some reason my camera amplifies the intensity of the staining. It doesn't really look that bad.
Is that the far end of the house there is another bathroom identical to this one in the way it was installed. I think that's why they wanted to do this one the same way. They like the look. The problem with this room was simply the rotten floor. The other one is an interior bathroom and doesn't have any issues, except of course for the movement of the cedar boards..... Same corner issues caused by the wood movement in the bathroom that I'm working on.
 

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One thing that made this interesting when it comes to removing the cedar for 4 in along walls and replacing it with plywood...... Is that there is no sheetrock on the walls behind anything. It's just plywood on the exterior walls, insulation and then the cedar. The cedar is tongue and groove and so it's attached at the ceiling and at the floor plate and of course above and below the window. Unless the particular piece of cedar lays against a stud, the only thing holding it in place is the tongue and groove.
I'm just saying everything between the two studs is just flopping around with the tongue and groove holding it in place.
On the first wall that I worked on I decided to cut the cedar at a 30° downward angle using my fine tool and a guide that I made with my table saw.
I cut off four and a half inches of cedar with that bevel and then replace it with a four and a half inch piece of plywood with the same bevel. Once inserted the plywood bevel pushes against the cedar. I decided to add a bit of caulking between the plywood and the cedar and if nothing else is slows down air movement.
When I install the cove cap metal, it will overlap the cedar by an eighth of an inch or so.
There is no actual bid given or price discussed for what I'm doing here. I figure they want it done right, and so I'm doing it as right as I think I can and I'm taking pictures along the way so they know what's been done. It's nice doing work this way as you're not worried about a time crunch or a number crunch (cost) I'm guessing 1300 to 1500 bucks plus materials for an 8x8 bathroom....... coved in a manner that Jon doesn't approve of. I honestly don't remember if I've done vinyl on the walls as a base like material. I've done a lot of weird stuff over the years but I really can't recall if I've done something like this before. If I did, it was a long long time ago.
 

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One thing that made this interesting when it comes to removing the cedar for 4 in along walls and replacing it with plywood...... Is that there is no sheetrock on the walls behind anything. It's just plywood on the exterior walls, insulation and then the cedar. The cedar is tongue and groove and so it's attached at the ceiling and at the floor plate and of course above and below the window. Unless the particular piece of cedar lays against a stud, the only thing holding it in place is the tongue and groove.
I'm just saying everything between the two studs is just flopping around with the tongue and groove holding it in place.
On the first wall that I worked on I decided to cut the cedar at a 30° downward angle using my fine tool and a guide that I made with my table saw.
I cut off four and a half inches of cedar with that bevel and then replace it with a four and a half inch piece of plywood with the same bevel. Once inserted the plywood bevel pushes against the cedar. I decided to add a bit of caulking between the plywood and the cedar and if nothing else is slows down air movement.
When I install the cove cap metal, it will overlap the cedar by an eighth of an inch or so.
There is no actual bid given or price discussed for what I'm doing here. I figure they want it done right, and so I'm doing it as right as I think I can and I'm taking pictures along the way so they know what's been done. It's nice doing work this way as you're not worried about a time crunch or a number crunch (cost) I'm guessing 1300 to 1500 bucks plus materials for an 8x8 bathroom....... coved in a manner that Jon doesn't approve of. I honestly don't remember if I've done vinyl on the walls as a base like material. I've done a lot of weird stuff over the years but I really can't recall if I've done something like this before. If I did, it was a long long time ago.

One thing that made this interesting when it comes to removing the cedar for 4 in along walls and replacing it with plywood...... Is that there is no sheetrock on the walls behind anything. It's just plywood on the exterior walls, insulation and then the cedar. The cedar is tongue and groove and so it's attached at the ceiling and at the floor plate and of course above and below the window. Unless the particular piece of cedar lays against a stud, the only thing holding it in place is the tongue and groove.
I'm just saying everything between the two studs is just flopping around with the tongue and groove holding it in place.
On the first wall that I worked on I decided to cut the cedar at a 30° downward angle using my fine tool and a guide that I made with my table saw.
I cut off four and a half inches of cedar with that bevel and then replace it with a four and a half inch piece of plywood with the same bevel. Once inserted the plywood bevel pushes against the cedar. I decided to add a bit of caulking between the plywood and the cedar and if nothing else is slows down air movement.
When I install the cove cap metal, it will overlap the cedar by an eighth of an inch or so.
There is no actual bid given or price discussed for what I'm doing here. I figure they want it done right, and so I'm doing it as right as I think I can and I'm taking pictures along the way so they know what's been done. It's nice doing work this way as you're not worried about a time crunch or a number crunch (cost) I'm guessing 1300 to 1500 bucks plus materials for an 8x8 bathroom....... coved in a manner that Jon doesn't approve of. I honestly don't remember if I've done vinyl on the walls as a base like material. I've done a lot of weird stuff over the years but I really can't recall if I've done something like this before. If I did, it was a long long time ago.

To late now but could you have put a piece of flat timber behind then screw every thing together?
Are you doing a cove as I thought you were doing an upstand as per a piece on the flat as an upstand?
The reason I suggest is to do the upstand first is that you do not have to scribe the upstand into the floor material as the thickness of the floor material will hide little gaps
 
Upstand, not coved. The customer has a bathroom with this exact same material done in this exact same way and they seem to like it.
I totally understand what you're saying about the scribbing method.
It makes sense, but that would require me to start signing my name with my left hand instead of my right hand which I've never done in my life. It's just something I'm not going to change.
The floor is going to be installed first and the smaller sections, the wall sections, will be put on afterwards. The wall behind the toilet consists of three, 3 ft cuts
The floor is already extremely flat and I could probably straight edge the lino and it would fit perfectly to the floor. The longest two pieces of "upstand" are 5 ft and 6 ft 1 in. Everything else is 3 foot, or less. It's pretty hard to find a floor where you couldn't use a straight edge to fit the upstand molding tightly to the floor. If I was fitting the material to a 15 ft long room in this same manner I would have more concern about how tightly it fit to the floor.
If I put the wall parts on first and then screw up the flooring by a 32nd of an inch for some stupid reason, I have big problems.
Like I said, I can fine tune or perfect the tiny sections of wall base or uprights with a couple strokes of sandpaper if necessary.
There's no way to screw up the way I'm going to be doing it.
Initially, I was thinking of sliding a 1 in by half inch piece of wood behind the cedar and gluing and tacking that in place with a brad nailer to stabilize the void between the studs.
With the 30° bevel pressing against the cedar in that first 6-ft area that I showed, I only have 6 ft more to go under the sinks and then three, 3 ft wide areas around and behind the toilet. That 30° bevel work really nice on that first wall.
Like I said I put a quarter inch bead of caulking on the bevel before I send the plywood against it so there's sort of locked together.
The co-cab metal will be nailed into the plywood. They will probably be a 1/8 in overlap where the code cap rides above the plywood.
I think I got this one figured out pretty good.
 
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Highup, nice progress on that floor. Cedar walls look neat. My house's walls have vinyl siding over house wrap over plywood on the outside and then wooden wall panels nailed on the studs. In some places there is insulation but not all.
What were the blue X tape spots on the floor?

Not doing much of anything yet today. Woke up barely able to move because my back was locking up on me. Took some naproxyn so it's not so bad now but I'm stiff. I tried stretching but it didn't help. I got up to feed the kitties and couldn't bend to fill all of their bowls. So I filled about half of the bowls before my back noped out on me. Still need to let puppies out, feed kitties in front room, clear the couch off so I can sit, have some breakfast, and start cleaning up in the front room. If it warms up enough I will see how my new hedge trimmer works.

The leaves dried up on the blackberry bushes so you can see through them a bit more, but I have to take all these blackberry bushes down so I can get to my back door.
blackberryweedsMarch11-2022_1.jpgblackberryweedsMarch11-2022_2.jpg
The last time major cleaning was done, a bunch of stuff got tossed out the back door and sliding glass door. There is also a chicken tree I need to cut down with my chainsaw. Damn thing keeps growing back but its within 20ft of my water well so I don't want to use poison.

Gonna have to see about hauling off that old mattress, boxspring, and corner piece of a sectional sofa in there.
 
Hopefully they picked out a good name for the race like the..
Ford F-250 4x4 500 or the Fishy McFlatface 500.

.........no, those sound like college bowl games.
The bathroom feels more like a lot of dinkin' around than a lot of work. It certainly testing my creativity. One of these days I'm even going to put the new Marmoleum on the floor
 

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