Stop grinning

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I moved back over to the woven seam topic..... My mind wanders.

 

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Here's how it went down. Upon experimenting with the gap between the tile and the tackstrip, I tested early on and decided since the carpet is about 3/8" thick, I'd do my tackstrip gap just barely under that, at 5/16".
I have almost a 1/2 inch gully to tuck into.... a lifesaver in this situation. Lotsa room to tuck the carpet edge down into.
I have blue tape spaced 5/16" back from the tile edge. Since the walls in the room are perfectly parallel with the tile, I am able to cut the carpet row even to my tape edge.
I tested the carpet stretch across the 18' room width and it's close to 1/4"
I had stretched the room length, then stretched the walls in width, but didn't stretch onto the tackstrip in the doorway.
I trimmed a carpet row to my blue tape line the started cramming the carpet into the gully. The carpet is pliable, so I started the cramming with my fingers and thumb.
Next I continued cramming further, rocking and pushing (not pounding) the carpet into the gully with a stair tool. Once tucked most of the way

in, I did one more step, finishing the tuck with a 6" drywall spreader...... because it's thin..... Less chance of damage to the rows. No photo of the spreader finishing the tuck.
Photos didn't appear in order, but you'll figure it out.

 

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My initial issue was the grinning. Had I stretched the carpet, then trimmed and tucked it in, any grinning was whatever it was.... Not very adjustable once it's been stretched.
So what I did, knowing that there would be maybe 1/8 of an inch of stretch, was to trim and tuck neatly. Once tucked, I would then do the stretch and push it onto the tackstrip. "Shoving" the tucked in carpet edge forward against the tile seemed to give me the ability to control the grinning a bit. That's what occured a week and a half ago when I started planning my tackstrip placement, so I just ran with it.
The video quality is high, so I made it a short one. To your right, the carpet was stretched, forced forwards towards the tile, then I pushed the carpet onto the tackstrip and released the stretch.
The left side has been stretched, and I'm about to push the carpet into the tacks, then release the stretcher.
For people that haven't installed wovens and don't know how little it can stretch, probably can't a understand why I'm being so slow and methodical
.....I'm learning here too and it's working.
I have 4 more of these tiled doorways to do in other rooms.
I have 5 doorways to do the same way, but the all fit to hardwood. The wood doorways all tuck parallel to the weft, so I don't think grinning will be such a concern.

 

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One more short vidjeo.
..... that's my plastic knee pads creekin', not my knees

 

[MSLI]

NICE ! That’s Gotta be one of the greatest depiction’s of installing carpet to a hard surface, like ceramic or wood I ever saw besides mine

 

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I wish I knew how to do these. I'm just wingin' it.

 

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I honesty appreciate the feedback in any way shape or form

 

[MSLI]

I wish I knew how to do these. I'm just wingin' it.

Guess what, you’re wingin’s Fly !

 

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Hmm. Thought the wood wouldn't grin as much.

 

[MSLI]

Hmm. Thought the wood wouldn't grin as much.

Sorry to tell you this, but you may want to pull it back out. Cut 1/8”+ off , seal edge, let dry, then stretch up 1/8” and re-tuck. That way the ‘ hinge area will land in the middle of the loops, rather than in the middle of the gap between the loops.

Option to try first and I believe you already talked about doing this technique and your video kinda is demonstrating it….. If there’s more room in the gully, you may be able to power up 1/8”, gently remove backing from tackless, ( do not pull it out of gully ) and then work the hinge point lower towards the gully and close the grin by 1/16” …… Please remember to inform the builder that what you’re doing is not the recommended method. The recommended method for hard surfaces to wall to wall carpet is tapered down threshold’s, and all of this professional, tweaking and manipulation needs to be billed accordingly at time and material, extra up fees.

Option # 3 > do nothing, it looks acceptable to me and after you and the builder walk over it a few times over the course of 2 or 3 days, you will probably say to yourself “ How did that issue just resolve itself

 

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Nope, I knew early on there would be no thresholds. That just wasn't gonna happen.
I wouldn't need to pull the carpet out if I wanted to attempt to move it forward a smidge. There's no reason the seal the edge. It already goes almost 3/8 down into the gully as is. I added some sealer to the back side where the carpet rests on the tackstrip. I'm thinkin' 3/4" gold flat bar.

 

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An afterthought was to notch or back bevel the hardwood, creating a taper.
Two variations. An 1/8 inch notch (red), or a taper.
....no, that might not work now because of the 2 layers of 1/4 inch plywood from the floor being raised up.
....can't do that with the tile. If I did that on the other 4 rooms, also it helped, I'd probably have to pull up the entire wall and doorway in this room to make it the same.

 

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That little buckled area i can probably straighten a little. The seam is that pattern line starting at the edge of the door trim.... IE: seam tape

 

[MSLI]

An afterthought was to notch or back bevel the hardwood, creating a taper.
Two variations. An 1/8 inch notch (red), or a taper.
....no, that might not work now because of the 2 layers of 1/4 inch plywood from the floor being raised up.
....can't do that with the tile. If I did that on the other 4 rooms, also it helped, I'd probably have to pull up the entire wall and doorway in this room to make it the same.

Showing off that Scientific improvement brain , That’s a great idea